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2011 Pulsare 2100 w 250 hp STABILITY?

Z

ZR1 MK

New member
I recently got this boat and have driven it a few times. The stability of the boat above 40 mph is in question. The fastest I've been is 55 mph. At that speed the boat wanders quite a bit and is a handful, but the worst is the boat flips between the bottom left side and bottom right side rather than run on the center keel.

What am I doing wrong? Do I need trim tabs?

Mike
 
They take some time learning how to drive them on the pad, but that is usually at higher speeds. At those speeds something could be wrong...gonna need some set up information to help. Like cable or hydraulic steering, set back amount, what lower unit and prop, prop saft center line hight related to the pad. You should not need tabs, but they can help a lot if your not a "driver"
 
Chine walk. Something needs to be tightened up or replaced if worn.
Shouldn't be that bad at those speeds.
 
Boat has 10 inch bracket, hydraulic lift, Fury 3 blade 27 inch pitch prop and hydraulic steering.
I tried different trim angles and brackets heights, but I'm not a boat expert regarding this setup.
Does the motors height make that much of a difference regarding handling aside from the top speed most are concerned about?
I'll check the boat mechanically and try some more settings next time.
Thanks for all advice.
1%20-%20Copy_zpsqrygc6k4.jpg
 
iv got a 21 paulsar w/a 225/25p 6" ,hyd,solid mounts, pretty slow really mabe 63-65 the same as my 89 21 starliner did, but its on rails, stright almost no hands,any way its not the boat,in the pic the motor looks a little low, but i think some seat time will help. i also have a stv euro w/a 2.5 about 109 but i nead seat time in it each boat it differnt!!! make small changes 1/4 to 1/2 in hight keep an eye on water pressure have fun
 
You should be able to drive that boat with a drink in one hand, a smoke in the other, and steer with your knee at those speeds. My 21 Starliner would run straight as could be at those speeds no matter if the jack was fully up or fully down. Tabs are not a solution even if they do fix it you've got something else going on there.

John
 
It does sound like more seat time is needed. My boat is very similar setup and runs mid 70's. Very stable and easy to drive once you get the hang of it. Try a trophy 26 or 27. The 4 blade design makes it an easier prop to drive
 
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Make sure there is no slop in your hydraulic steering...air in the lines, loose tiller arm connection or cylinder bracket connection...I've had these cause issues before. Also check all bolts/nuts from bracket to boat, lift to bracket, and motor to lift.

Once your sure this stuff is OK, it's just a matter of getting the feel for it. When it gets to a speed where it's up on the pad you can't just hold the wheel and run straight. One way to get a feel for what the boat is doing during a faster run is turn the wheel slightly, it's harder for it to fall off the pad to the opposite side and you should be able to run for a pretty good stretch without chinewalk. In order to balance the boat at full speed in a straight line, even with the setup tight and in perfect order, your going to have to make slight steering "adjustments" to keep the hull from falling to one chine or the other. These adjustments are going to be very slight, almost unnoticable if someone was watching you.

The faster you run the boat, the higher you can raise the motor, the higher you can raise the motor (with good water pressure) the better it will handle.

Make sure everything is tight and in order....then go out and put some hours on it. Be carefull and don't listen to anyone who tells you to "drive" through it.

-Craig
 
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ZR1 MK said:
Boat has 10 inch bracket, hydraulic lift, Fury 3 blade 27 inch pitch prop and hydraulic steering.
I tried different trim angles and brackets heights, but I'm not a boat expert regarding this setup.
Does the motors height make that much of a difference regarding handling aside from the top speed most are concerned about?
I'll check the boat mechanically and try some more settings next time.
Thanks for all advice.
1%20-%20Copy_zpsqrygc6k4.jpg
Click to expand...

The boat you have is an 80-84mph boat all day long. Step one is to get rid of the Fury 27. Replace that prop with a Trophy Plus 27 four blade. Check to make sure your steering has very little play. Grab the back of the mid-section and push it from side to side. There should be no more than maybe 1/2" of wiggle room. If more, you need to bleed the steering and remove any air in the system. Driving a Pulsare at speed takes seat time. Start with the motor deep on take off. As you pick up speed, trim the motor out in small increments..the same with the hyd. jackplate. If the boat gets out of shape (chinewalks), back off the throttle for a moment or two and let the boat settle down before increasing the throttle again. There will be less chinewalk the higher you raise the jackplate at faster speeds. With enough experience (seat time) you will be able to balance the boat on the pad without worry. Also, having a foot throttle is a big plus because it allows you to keep both hands on the wheel. Blinker style levers for the the trim and jackplate will also give you an advantage in fine tuning while at speed!
 
When your at speed with the jack plate up, less trim on the motor is needed. Your looking to have the prop as level to the surface as possible. With the thrust going straight to rear with little to no roostertail. Allowing the hull to fly itself on the pad.
 
With hydraulic steering, I’d go so far as to say there should be no slop at all if it’s purged all the way free of air bubbles. I agree a Trophy is the best prop on a Pulsare and that would be for everything from hole shot, mid-range and top speed.

Here was my last Pulsare set-up:
17” total setback, 28 Trophy Plus, propshaft 2” above the pad. It would run 95.? on GPS consistently. Foot throttle and lever trim control on helm.

-Craig
 
Craig said:
With hydraulic steering, I’d go so far as to say there should be no slop at all if it’s purged all the way free of air bubbles. I agree a Trophy is the best prop on a Pulsare and that would be for everything from hole shot, mid-range and top speed.

Here was my last Pulsare set-up:
17” total setback, 28 Trophy Plus, propshaft 2” above the pad. It would run 95.? on GPS consistently. Foot throttle and lever trim control on helm.

-Craig
Click to expand...

300X or XS on it Craig? Trophy is a very easy prop to drive for sure, not the best on every set up but definitely a good place to start for someone learning to drive a pad boat.
 
kushog said:
300X or XS on it Craig? Trophy is a very easy prop to drive for sure, not the best on every set up but definitely a good place to start for someone learning to drive a pad boat.
Click to expand...

300XS. To get to 95 I ran it out all the way to rev limit, don't remember what that was maybe 6400-6500rpms. Water pressure would get way down low. Never did see on this site what the 30" prop was that Randy had, guess that will remain a secret......but a Trophy is the only prop I know to get you to your best top speed in a pulsare.

-Craig
 
Craig said:
300XS. To get to 95 I ran it out all the way to rev limit, don't remember what that was maybe 6400-6500rpms. Water pressure would get way down low. Never did see on this site what the 30" prop was that Randy had, guess that will remain a secret......but a Trophy is the only prop I know to get you to your best top speed in a pulsare.

-Craig
Click to expand...

Nice, sounds well set up and 95 is moving for sure. Sportmaster with a 1:62? Don't want to hijack but lots of good advice here for the OP. If the set up looks tight than that just leaves seat time. On a side note I let a friend drive mine that was unfamiliar with a pad boat and he couldn't get it past 55-60 without it starting to walk. once you get the feel you don't lose it, same as trying to "unlearn" how to ride a bike.
 
kushog said:
Nice, sounds well set up and 95 is moving for sure. Sportmaster with a 1:62? Don't want to hijack but lots of good advice here for the OP. If the set up looks tight than that just leaves seat time. On a side note I let a friend drive mine that was unfamiliar with a pad boat and he couldn't get it past 55-60 without it starting to walk. once you get the feel you don't lose it, same as trying to "unlearn" how to ride a bike.
Click to expand...

SM 1.62 case.

-Craig
 
This is our 95 pulsare with an 07 250 ProXs. There is an 8 inch static plate and the 5-1/2 hydraulic. Running a 25 pitch Tempest Plus which was apparently reworked to a 26 since that is stamped on the side of the prop hub, running about an inch down from the top position turning 5900 RPM it runs 75 MPH and is very stable in fact this past Saturday I ran between 55 and 60 MPH for 25 miles and drove with one hand., absolutely no chine walk, it is a real pleasure to drive. At 75 and above, if you change props, you just have to pay attention. The only thing I am certain about is the motor is mounted centered to the pad.

Good Luck.

8514673068d1fbd8f41f94fb25e5fb17a9887a_zpsd8uccd3v.png
 
kushog said:
I let a friend drive mine that was unfamiliar with a pad boat and he couldn't get it past 55-60 without it starting to walk. once you get the feel you don't lose it, same as trying to "unlearn" how to ride a bike.
Click to expand...
That sounds like me.

I watched the two posted vids and I'm reassured.

Thanks to everyone who responded:thumb:. I received more help than anticipated.

I'll absorb all the advice, check the steering, learn the setup and learn how to drive.
 
ZR1 MK said:
That sounds like me.

I watched the two posted vids and I'm reassured.

Thanks to everyone who responded:thumb:. I received more help than anticipated.

I'll absorb all the advice, check the steering, learn the setup and learn how to drive.
Click to expand...

Don't worry you will get the "hang" of it. FYI mine has a 250 now, had a 225 in the vid. Runs 83.5 with four people full of fuel.
 
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