• Welcome to the Checkmate Community Forums forums.

    You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions, articles and access to our other FREE features.
    By joining our free community you will be able to:

    » Interact with over 10,000 Checkmate Fanatics from around the world!
    » Post topics and messages
    » Post and view photos
    » Communicate privately with other members
    » Access our extensive gallery of old Checkmate brochures located in our Media Gallery
    » Browse the various pictures in our Checkmate photo gallery

    Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

    If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact support by clicking here or by using the"contact us" link at the bottom of the page.

2100 BR Prop Question, Again

Lots of minuses to them on a small boat like the Pulsare. Especially since you don't need them. Definitely don't use them in this application.

Do you have them on your Pulsare?

I would like to know what the minuses are to using the tabs on my Pulsare. I have not found any. Maybe there are some but I sure don't know what they are. Your 300X is way lighter than my Evinrude.

In 1976 we put step and trim plates on my 18' Tahiti with a 200 Johnson to stop chine walking. They were mounted parallel to the water and were fixed. I have been playing with boats for 45 years but There is always something to be learned. Skip
 
I would like to know what the minuses are to using the tabs on my Pulsare. I have not found any. Maybe there are some but I sure don't know what they are. Your 300X is way lighter than my Evinrude.

In 1976 we put step and trim plates on my 18' Tahiti with a 200 Johnson to stop chine walking. They were mounted parallel to the water and were fixed. I have been playing with boats for 45 years but There is always something to be learned. Skip

Minuses:
Expensive, added weight, can cause adverse handling, can cause drag at low speeds, unnecessary, drilling into the transom (Checkmates have wood transoms too), Out of the water when on the pad.

Benefits:
Can plane at lower speed (not a speed you'd want to drive around at), run level in extremely rough water ie offshore.

Total waste on a Pulsare in my opinion. Sometimes you see Progressions and some Supers with them but usually only for offshore use.

I don't have a 300, but a 300 XS is the same weight as a G1 250 HO.

Let's see a pic of the tabs on your Pulsare?
 
71 mph with the RX4 26P. I have the adjustable pvs holes all the way open and she is popping out of the water pretty quick now. Still have not tried pulling a tube or skier but I think this will be the best all around prop. The RX4 has more lift than any other prop I have tried. It picks the nose way out of the water with no effort and I can get on the pad at much lower speed/rpm than any other prop I have tried. I am only turning about 5300 at the 71 so I am thinking once I get used to driving with this prop I can squeeze a few more out of it. It is a beast to handle if I trim it up to far at high speeds..I dont think the boat would flip over but she sure feels light!!!! That brings me to a question...do you guys know of anyone who has ever flipped their 21 foot pulsare over backwards?? I am guessing you would have to be doing at least mid 80's and maybe into a hard wind, but I am curious...
 
71 mph with the RX4 26P. I have the adjustable pvs holes all the way open and she is popping out of the water pretty quick now. Still have not tried pulling a tube or skier but I think this will be the best all around prop. The RX4 has more lift than any other prop I have tried. It picks the nose way out of the water with no effort and I can get on the pad at much lower speed/rpm than any other prop I have tried. I am only turning about 5300 at the 71 so I am thinking once I get used to driving with this prop I can squeeze a few more out of it. It is a beast to handle if I trim it up to far at high speeds..I dont think the boat would flip over but she sure feels light!!!! That brings me to a question...do you guys know of anyone who has ever flipped their 21 foot pulsare over backwards?? I am guessing you would have to be doing at least mid 80's and maybe into a hard wind, but I am curious...

Extremely unlikely you would ever blow over. I suppose if you were going in the 80's, caught a wave and the wind just right, and you were trimmed too high you could be looking skyward. But v hulls don't trap air, so it will probably come down. Far better chance of spinning it out. Lots of guys have flipped boats losing control jumping waves etc.

My Pulsare at 70 is like it's on a trailer it is very stable and easy to drive.

You can definitely squeeze more RPM out of it, shoot for 6000.
 
Minuses:
Expensive, added weight, can cause adverse handling, can cause drag at low speeds, unnecessary, drilling into the transom (Checkmates have wood transoms too), Out of the water when on the pad.

Benefits:
Can plane at lower speed (not a speed you'd want to drive around at), run level in extremely rough water ie offshore.

Total waste on a Pulsare in my opinion. Sometimes you see Progressions and some Supers with them but usually only for offshore use.

I don't have a 300, but a 300 XS is the same weight as a G1 250 HO.

Let's see a pic of the tabs on your Pulsare?

My Bennett Tabs only cost about the same as a couple of props. Even living on a social security check in a section 8 ghetto housing I can afford them. Just no money left for coke, crack and hookers!
They are not a waste of time. My boat porpoised really bad, even with a 6" power CMC jackplate. If someone is sitting in the rear seat it is crazy at lower speeds. The tabs stopped it all.
All the lakes in So Ca have a 35 mph speed limit. Right were the porpoise is the worst.
I have never had any handling issues with the plates installed. If anything it handles better, since the boat is more stable.
You are right about Checkmates having wood in the transom and floor. Worst part about the boat! My holes are sealed up very good.
I will post some photos, if I can find them.
Living the dream, waiting for my next govt check..........Skip
 
I would like to know what the minuses are to using the tabs on my Pulsare. I have not found any. Maybe there are some but I sure don't know what they are. Your 300X is way lighter than my Evinrude.

In 1976 we put step and trim plates on my 18' Tahiti with a 200 Johnson to stop chine walking. They were mounted parallel to the water and were fixed. I have been playing with boats for 45 years but There is always something to be learned. Skip

Hey Skip glad to chimed in. I put trim tabs on my boat only after I had talked to you. I could not stop the porpoising without them. Before I had the Etec I ran a Merc and then a Yamaha and neither of the needed them.

jhw304 that RX4 sounds like a winner. Keep raising the motor till it starts to blowout and then down a 1/4". More engine height is better than too much trim. Probably why it feels so light. You should get your 75 mph.
 
Hey Skip glad to chimed in. I put trim tabs on my boat only after I had talked to you. I could not stop the porpoising without them. Before I had the Etec I ran a Merc and then a Yamaha and neither of the needed them.

jhw304 that RX4 sounds like a winner. Keep raising the motor till it starts to blowout and then down a 1/4". More engine height is better than too much trim. Probably why it feels so light. You should get your 75 mph.

I think that a Merc trims in more than an Evinrude. That is the only reason that I can think of that causes the Evinrudes to porpoise much more than the Mercs.
A Yamaha SHO looks like a sweet motor. I have never seen or heard of one on a Pulsare though.......Skip
 
Hey Skip glad to chimed in. I put trim tabs on my boat only after I had talked to you. I could not stop the porpoising without them. Before I had the Etec I ran a Merc and then a Yamaha and neither of the needed them.

jhw304 that RX4 sounds like a winner. Keep raising the motor till it starts to blowout and then down a 1/4". More engine height is better than too much trim. Probably why it feels so light. You should get your 75 mph.

Wow, recommending a blowout to dial it in? Lol. Ya, that sounds safe for a guy learning to drive his boat. :shakehead: And trim tabs on a Pulsare so you can go 20 mph without porpoising. Haha. You guys are hilarious. And no, the prop doesn't sound like a winner at all. It's not revving nearly high enough, it should be way faster and it's not handling well. (probably because he's not use to driving it yet). In fact, the numbers don't really make sense at all.

Can you post a pic of the tabs on your Pulsare? Which ones are you running?
 
71 mph with the RX4 26P. I have the adjustable pvs holes all the way open and she is popping out of the water pretty quick now. Still have not tried pulling a tube or skier but I think this will be the best all around prop. The RX4 has more lift than any other prop I have tried. It picks the nose way out of the water with no effort and I can get on the pad at much lower speed/rpm than any other prop I have tried. I am only turning about 5300 at the 71 so I am thinking once I get used to driving with this prop I can squeeze a few more out of it. It is a beast to handle if I trim it up to far at high speeds..I dont think the boat would flip over but she sure feels light!!!! That brings me to a question...do you guys know of anyone who has ever flipped their 21 foot pulsare over backwards?? I am guessing you would have to be doing at least mid 80's and maybe into a hard wind, but I am curious...

You need to use the steering to help balance the boat when you are airing it out. You will get used to it and the boat will balance nicely and handle fine. Just takes practice. Lots of people recommend solid mounts on those motors, mentioned in that link I posted about the superboat with the 250 HO. That will sharpen up the steering drastically.

Definitely get your hands on other props, that one sounds less than ideal. Use this prop slip calculator to find out how efficiently your prop is running, it's not a perfect determiner but will give you a rough idea: http://www.mercuryracing.com/prop-slip-calculator/ You'll probably be in a 12-15% slip range when set up. 10% being ultra efficient. Most importantly is motor is revving where it needs to be and your speed reflects that.

Definitely note where the lower unit is on the jack plate gauge so you know where you are adjusting from. If it's too low, the boat will tend to want to chine walk and won't really wind up.

Like the others said, the Bravo props would be worth trying as well as the Hyromotive if you can get your hands on one. Boat should be in the high 70's, I think, I've heard those motors are beasts.

I highly recommend not putting trim tabs on it.
 
Last edited:
I am pretty sure what Mark meant by "blowout" is actually ventilation from raising the motor too high. Not the gearcase blowout that happens at around 80 plus mph. Had that happen a couple of times and bad things can happen really fast when the nose drops.
The fastest prop is usually not the best prop for all around use. Skip
 
I am pretty sure what Mark meant by "blowout" is actually ventilation from raising the motor too high. Not the gearcase blowout that happens at around 80 plus mph. Had that happen a couple of times and bad things can happen really fast when the nose drops.
The fastest prop is usually not the best prop for all around use. Skip

You should read the book from Mercury / Quicksilver "Everything you need to know about propellers." It's a great book. Blowout is not ventilation.

In this case it seems like the completely wrong prop, under revving, slow. When you run a poor performing prop (not necessarily the fastest) you leave efficiency on the table. For BRP props the Raker is probably better. The Trophy plus is popular, Hydromotive are great props, others recommended Bravo etc.; way more performance orientated props then the RX4.
 
I am pretty sure what Mark meant by "blowout" is actually ventilation from raising the motor too high. Not the gearcase blowout that happens at around 80 plus mph. Had that happen a couple of times and bad things can happen really fast when the nose drops.
The fastest prop is usually not the best prop for all around use. Skip

Yes, thanks Skip, I was referring to ventilation. I remember when the big Etecs first came out there were lots of frustrated guys being told they could just set them up like a Merc, only to discover the hard way that there were lots of differences. The Raker in particular did very poorly and would blow out (ventilate completely) on holeshot) The big diameter 4 blades were winner in most cases.
 
I know all too well what blowout is! It first happened to me around 1982 in a Campbell with a 235 Evinrude. The boat would run in the low to mid eightys. Trust me, I still remember the first time that it happened. Scared the crap out of me. It can be caused by gear case shape, gear case length (front to rear) and even by gear case crabing. Sometimes a prop with a longer exhaust hub will stop it. Blowout has hurt a lot of people. The modern gear cases are much better than they used to be.
Rakers are a great top speed prop, but that is about it. They kind of suck as a good all around prop. Skip
 
Yes, thanks Skip, I was referring to ventilation. I remember when the big Etecs first came out there were lots of frustrated guys being told they could just set them up like a Merc, only to discover the hard way that there were lots of differences. The Raker in particular did very poorly and would blow out (ventilate completely) on holeshot) The big diameter 4 blades were winner in most cases.

Ya, huge difference between blowout and a little bit of ventilation. Seems like most prefer the Raker HO, although I would try the other props mentioned: Bravo, Trophy plus, Hydromotive. RX4 seems to perform terribly. But, you'd have to look more closely at the set up and how it's being driven.

Here's some interesting advice from a Scream and Fly post with a 250 HO.
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...HO-on-a-24-SuperBoat-prop-suggestions-welcome
 
I know all too well what blowout is! It first happened to me around 1982 in a Campbell with a 235 Evinrude. The boat would run in the low to mid eightys. Trust me, I still remember the first time that it happened. Scared the crap out of me. It can be caused by gear case shape, gear case length (front to rear) and even by gear case crabing. Sometimes a prop with a longer exhaust hub will stop it. Blowout has hurt a lot of people. The modern gear cases are much better than they used to be.
Rakers are a great top speed prop, but that is about it. They kind of suck as a good all around prop. Skip

Sort of, I posted this a while ago. http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=33055&page=1

The RX4 here is definitely not working. I would definitely try a different prop but probably make sure the setup is right first. The Raker seems to be much preferred over the RX4 but I am not recommending it, it all depends on what the OP wants. Trophy plus or Bravo might be closer to an all around performer.

What are you running on your Pulsare? What do you think the OP's numbers should be with this setup?
 
Anyone tried a drag plate on a G2 to reduce/eliminate porpoising at <40 mph? If the Evinrude has less tuck than a Merc it seems that a drag plate might help while being a better option than trim tabs. Drag plate is light, simple (no moving parts), relatively inexpensive, doesn't require holes to be drilled into the transom, and is totally out of the water for high speed running.
 
Anyone tried a drag plate on a G2 to reduce/eliminate porpoising at <40 mph? If the Evinrude has less tuck than a Merc it seems that a drag plate might help while being a better option than trim tabs. Drag plate is light, simple (no moving parts), relatively inexpensive, doesn't require holes to be drilled into the transom, and is totally out of the water for high speed running.

The OP has a G1, but you'd want to get it dialed in way more before you do. You could use the Allison one but I don't like the idea of it on a Pulsare because they plane easily, need more positive trim and the drag they can cause.

I can't see a Pulsare with the Evinrude having any issues with porpoising if setup properly.

http://www.allisonboats.com/content/specials/planing-foil/
 
The Allison style plate might be a good idea on a boat with the propshaft even or above the bottom of the boat. Much lower and I think that it would cause way too much drag. A great idea, in the right application. Skip
 
Thought I would ask again since there seems to be quite a few more choices in props available than a couple years ago. I am currently playing around trying to find the best prop for my 2100 BR with an 2015 ETEC 250HO on it. I prefer the 4 blade Trophy plus (26p) at the moment but it is a couple mph slower than my 27p Raker II (3 blade). The Raker likes to chine walk more than the Trophy. 68 mph with the Trophy Plus, 70 mph with the Raker II. I have the factory 6 inch setback. Engine mounted up as high as she will go. The etecs are torquey and like to blow out so it has been a challenging, but fun quest for the perfect prop. (please dont tell me to hang a merc on the back of it) lol...:drool:

I am thinking of trying a 27p Trophy Plus since I am running close to 6000 rpm and can probably turn a higher pitch still. I dont know of any other 4 blades that the pulsare hull really likes. I am thinking I can get it to 75 with the right prop...and still be able to pull tubes and kids around if needed..

Thoughts? Your favorite prop??
Jeff

Hey man, this was posted on another thread recently. This should help you big time. Guys are running 250 Pro XSs in the low 80's. That should be what yours is capable of. Guys name was Chuck. Your boat will have no issues planing and run really fast once you get the right prop dialed. Don't get get trim tabs or a drag plate like others suggested. If what you're describing as "blowout" is the prop breaking free a little bit in the high 60s, that's totally normal, it's not "blowout." Keep driving, it's bizarre how low your revs are but it is totally the wrong prop.

Here's the post:
"I have a 1995 2100br pulsare with a 2007 250 ProXs. Boat has run 82 with a 28 Trophy and will run 77-78 with a Tempest plus 27 pitch. My favorite props are the tempest plus for acceleration and handling. I would think with the 300 you should either in a 28 to 30 pitch range with whatever number of blades. If you are interested send me your info - address and I would be willing to let you try out the 28 Trophy, and purchase it if you like, I may also have a 30 pitch cleaver available."
 
Last edited:
Back
Top