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502 oil lines

M

micro85l

Member
Hello,

I have a 502 MPI. I just installed this engine, former 454 carbed. I have been having problems with the oil filter gasket blowing out. I'm thinking it must be crossed lines to the remote filter, but have no diagrams to go off of. I have tried purchasing a manual, but seems that no one has any. Can someone please help me with this?


Thanks in advance
 
What year is your 502? I have had mine apart many times. Mine has hard stainless steel lines that go to the remote filter and line up pretty well with the corresponding port. If my memory is right, the fore port should go to the oil cooler on the front of the block and the aft port should go to the adaptor on the block. It should travel to the filter, through the cooler, then back to the other port on the adaptor.
 
what year was the 454, if it was a earlier genIV and now you have a gen VI the filter adapters on the block are different and will not interchange just checking that first..Rob
 
Thanks for the response. The old engine was an 86, not sure what gen that would make it. The new engine is a 1998, which was completely gone through. I am looking for the routing of the lines coming from the back of the block through the cooler to the remote filter setup. I am thinking about just changing the adapters and installing the filter on the block to isolate the issue and hopefully rule out a possible bad oil pump. Please let me know what you think.

Thanks again
 
If your motor is a 98 502 MPI, it would be the same as mine. You should have an oil cooler mounted to the front of the block so you will need to run the remote setup. An oil line would go through that after the filter, then back to the block. On your remote adaptor, the nipple in the center should be where the return goes (returning from the cooler). The other port on your adaptor should go to the inlet of the remote filter. And as always, check to make sure you are not double gasketed on your adaptor or remote filter. That would cause a big time leak.

If your oil pump was bad, you should have a lack of pressure not too much. What does your oil pressure gauge read at idle?
 
there was also a bypass checkvalve that is under the adapter at the filter pad, that will allow for excessive pressure to bypass. i have a part number for it and if you search it on speedwake or OSO, you will find talk of that there.
some say they just plug it, some use the valve. i installed the checkvalve and hav not had any issues.
 
boatn70 said:
there was also a bypass checkvalve that is under the adapter at the filter pad, that will allow for excessive pressure to bypass. i have a part number for it and if you search it on speedwake or OSO, you will find talk of that there.
some say they just plug it, some use the valve. i installed the checkvalve and hav not had any issues.
Click to expand...

This is correct and one of the reason to run a remote filter, your original 86 would be a gen IV and your 98 is a Gen VI, They are plumbed basically the same. The oil line holes on the gen VI block should be pluged. The filter should be remote and ran from the adapter at the filter pad as mentioned.
I have diagrams and all parts, If I can help you more feel free to shoot me a pm.

MK
 
Mk, mine is a gen6 and i have the checkvalve in there, good pressure, good temps taken at the remote filter. im not sure on the engineering of this, maybe a further description would be helpful......as far as flow direction and what the plugged holes vs. the valve would do? i will look for an answer here!
 
Gimefuel: The engine buries the pressure gauge at 80 (far as it goes) I only get to run it for maximum 30 seconds before it pops the gasket again. I know I'm starting to get into deep trouble, possible spun bearing? It has also been suggested that it could be the relief spring in the oil pump. The engine is a fresh rebuild from a reputable builder, I would think it wouldn't be a bearing. I'm starting to get nervous now, I traded a perfect running vehicle for this.
 
You must have a blockage somewhere in your oil system......That check valve would be a good place to start. Just be careful not to run the engine too long when you are testing things. One spun bearing would not cause this. I would take your remote lines off and flush them, flush the oil cooler, replace that check valve, put on a new filter. Basically, inspect everything that could get clogged.
 
micro85l said:
Gimefuel: The engine buries the pressure gauge at 80 (far as it goes) I only get to run it for maximum 30 seconds before it pops the gasket again. I know I'm starting to get into deep trouble, possible spun bearing? It has also been suggested that it could be the relief spring in the oil pump. The engine is a fresh rebuild from a reputable builder, I would think it wouldn't be a bearing. I'm starting to get nervous now, I traded a perfect running vehicle for this.
Click to expand...

80 psi cold is ok until it warms up 55 to 65 is considered normal when at throttle warm. if it runs excessive pressure at throttle that is not good. With a remote filter and oil cooler you should be running a milling m77hv oil pump. They are high volume standard pressure. I Blueprint them to .002. for my engines. It sounds to me the oil is not returning back into the block from the filter. your engine may have normal pressure. It is not uncommon for a new engine to peg the gauge when first started new. I would put a 120psi mechanical gauge on it to see if it has too much oil pressure. If high pressure in the filter is blowing out the seal 80 psi on the gauge would not do it if oil was returning back into the block properly. I would say you have a stuck check valve. Lines may be plumbed wrong or (the wrong filter adapter has no return hole back into the engine). blockage somewhere. Any of these could cause a high pressure reading as well.
Something is restricted and I believe it is something at your oil filter setup. I would remove any inferior parts and use a Mercruiser set up or another good marine equivalent.

I would not start your engine again until you are sure you have it set up right. You may risk damage to it.
Call your builder talk to him If he is a experienced Marine engine builder he should be able to help you.

MKhammer
 
Once again, thank you for all the help. I have been trying to contact the builder, I guess he is really busy with other things right now. From what I have gathered it looks like I'm pointing towards the stuck check valve. I checked the valve yesterday under the filter with a screwdriver. It works nice and smooth. I know this is stupid, but maybe the wrong filter? I have a napa 1086 on there right now. Thats what was on it when I got it, and have since gone through 3 of them. I think I have a good handle on the routing of the lines now thanks to all the help of you guys. I have heard something about a bypass on the adapter? My only question there is, yesterday I eliminated the lines and installed the filter on the block and still within say 15-20 seconds popped the gasket, but maybe the automotive style adapter kit was the proper one for it. I'm kind of new to the marine thing, so I'm sorry if I am doing things wrong.

Thanks for the help
 
Just wanted to add one more thing, I looked for a higher pressure gauge at the local stores, no luck. I can see that it far exceeds the 80 psi mark on the gauge though.
 
micro85l said:
Once again, thank you for all the help. I have been trying to contact the builder, I guess he is really busy with other things right now. From what I have gathered it looks like I'm pointing towards the stuck check valve. I checked the valve yesterday under the filter with a screwdriver. It works nice and smooth. I know this is stupid, but maybe the wrong filter? I have a napa 1086 on there right now. Thats what was on it when I got it, and have since gone through 3 of them. I think I have a good handle on the routing of the lines now thanks to all the help of you guys. I have heard something about a bypass on the adapter? My only question there is, yesterday I eliminated the lines and installed the filter on the block and still within say 15-20 seconds popped the gasket, but maybe the automotive style adapter kit was the proper one for it. I'm kind of new to the marine thing, so I'm sorry if I am doing things wrong.

Thanks for the help
Click to expand...
First I don't use Napa filters and don't know that application. I use Merc , Sierra , Wix or Phram filters,
Take evrything off you are using , filter adapter,fiter any hoses, and take a picture of your accessories and setup and post it. you can copy and paste the image link while typing your post using photobucket so we all can see it.
http://photobucket.com/.
Then you can be advised the right why how to set it up. If that doesn't work I would be beating down your engine builders door and make him fix it. New engines when machined right don't spin bearings, most cases a spun bearing will give a decrease in preasure.
any rate you have to rule out that it's your fault and then put it on your builder to fix.

MK
 
awesome diagram. Thank you. I won't be able to get pics until probably Sunday. Its beginning to rain and get nasty here. I ordered the pump, as you stated m-77hv. $40, so even if I find something else in the mean time, I will just keep it on the shelf. I will be installing all the original mercruiser parts including the remote system, and will get a wix 51060 oil filter. Hopefully I fix the issue there. One this note, what is the best way to drain the oil without making a huge mess? T
 
One thing that I have seen before in the past, a block is built by person "a" and the "dressing" is done by someone else. Depending on the builder and the assembler they may have a plug where the pressure relief valve should go, or if they weren't marine mechanics familiar with the remote system made an assembly error.

One really goofey thing is "and this happens alot" is there is an old gasket on the remote filter housing "blowing" out when pressure increases. This will make a mess and fast.

If the internal pressure is rising at such a rate, you should have oil leaks, namely the front and rear seal should be leaking like a sive.

I agree with MK, if your building pressure, you should not have not spun any bearings or done any significant damage. I don't think you have a serious problem, just one that is messy, and may take a few new cuss words to get it straight.
 
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