• Welcome to the Checkmate Community Forums forums.

    You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions, articles and access to our other FREE features.
    By joining our free community you will be able to:

    » Interact with over 10,000 Checkmate Fanatics from around the world!
    » Post topics and messages
    » Post and view photos
    » Communicate privately with other members
    » Access our extensive gallery of old Checkmate brochures located in our Media Gallery
    » Browse the various pictures in our Checkmate photo gallery

    Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

    If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact support by clicking here or by using the"contact us" link at the bottom of the page.

85 enchanter needs to be stronger

captainmorgan

captainmorgan

Active member
i put 1/4 alum plate inside the entire stern, welded plating off that to the knees and bolted it. you cant see any play, yet the cracks show up. there is no visible play in any chop, but its still showing fatigue. im getting ready to go 3 litre, and theres not much more i can think of to do except to have some kind of rods to go to the front or mid-section somehow. ive got alum pipe from floor to sides, under bow, and it makes all the diff in the world, because it would have busted all to peices by now. i was wondering how i could run some rod from stern to center for more support, for my next motor. i believe in safety, and looks dont matter. i dont want to chine, and my check never has. ide run a bolt rod to the nose of the bow if i had to, and i will, because my 21s getting a 300+ handgrenade. you could bust the fiberglass off it now and have an alum boat, but to keep it as original as possible, its took a lot of body filler. some people think im a fool, but its only going to look like i have a 150 4-stroke, hahahahaha. im going to get my pilot license next year, and i aint using a plane. watch me.:devil::sleep:
 
Last edited:
How large are the cracks Cap'n? Are we talking tiny gel cracks, or 1/4" monster cracks? If you've got the motor bolted through the transom directly to the plate that's bolted directly to the stringers, then you can't really do any better. A wet transom is going to flex anyway, causing little cracks. If the cracks are large, then it might be time for a replacement anyway........
 
ill take some pics

and show you. transom is dry and good, but the cracks were there before i got it. what i did was good but w/ the 10" jack and a heavier motor, & the way i beat it, i think i better have some kind of setup like my tunnel has. its got a peice of angle iron at the top bolts on the jack with 1" ss rod about 3' long going to the knees. if i just had 1 rod to go down the middle, to the floor, just behind the seats. problem is how to fasten it thru the floor. almost need to bolt through the bottom and keel. that would be the ticket for any beating i give it. when it comes to safety, theres never enough. all the guys w/ checks here dont do this stuff, and a little play makes alot of diff. they get crazy after 65mph. ive noticed that my hyd steering has started to get a little play in the cylinder 1/2". ive bled, fluids good, but cant get it tight like when it was new. prob dont hurt w/ the tork but i dont like any movement. its sea star brand. its sat afternoon and getting ready to fly to tangeir in the check for a party, live band, and all the crabs we can eat. got to hide the beer though, as its a dry island so they say. only thing ever stolen off my boats was beer for the past 25 years. you could leave your cash on the dash, and only the beer and whiskey would be gone.haha thanks for the help.
 
If your not gonna replace the transom then you need to atleast put a plate on the back of the boat also cuz the motor is trying to drive itself under the boat it will open up any cracks there especially if you plan on putting 3.0litre power on it. If your planning on 300 ponies i would be rebuilding the back of the boat over the winter.
 
You could take some threaded bars and bolt them from the transom to the rear deck, right where the top of the back seat is across your splash well. That would be plenty strong. It wouldnt be pretty but it will strengthen it more than enough for the 3.0l. I did that to an opld glastron w/ a soft transom, and it was super strong after.
 
good idea

thanks for the input, and if i can figure out how to resize my scans, ill show you what ive done. if i hadnt put all this support in my mate, it would be on the bottom of the ches bay. beat it to death today, and my body feels it. when check made this enchanter? (need some history on the names), they must have designed for flat water. has anyone else had to add support on the sides and bow? step off a dock onto the side would bust it without the pipe i put under. could not step on bow w/o alum support from floor to dash. i ran 1/4 alum plate across inside of transom, then welded off that 90 degrees to the length of the knees. put bolts in those corners thru transom just to avoid the flex of the plate. got 16x16" plate on back of trans with jack bolted all way thru. its best i could rig at the time and 4 years of beating has only cracked the body filler. its good enough for any motor, but not good enough for the safety of me and the other fools who love to fly with me.
 
never heard of the deck flexing on a mate

i have only owned open bow mates there is less deck area with more support
on them

daren
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top