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Am I Screwed with this Engine Swap??

B

Blkcorvair

Member
So I was all excited. Last Winter I found and Bought a 2002 EFI 250XL for my Pulsare 2100BR. I literally spent the winter going through every inch of this motor, cleaning Painting and Servicing everything. New Decals Etc..

The Current Motor on the Boat is a 2001 EFI 200XL

However, now I took the boat out of storage and backed into the garage ready to pull the old motor. Now that I have the Motors side by side, I realized that the New One is a longer Shaft Engine. I assummed that a 200XL and a 250XL would be the same shaft length. But either they aren't or someone changed the mid section on one of the motors!?!?!

The 250XL is 5" Longer than the 200XL on the boat now.

Can I still use this motor, maybe with an adapter or did I just screw my self completely?

I would upload a picture but photobucket screwed that up
 
so I was looking online and it looks like CMC makes vertical jackplate extensions to raise the motor 5". Do you think I could get away with mounting these to my jack plate and raising the motor 5"?? Could it be that easy?? Thanks
 
Might be a stupid question, but can't you just swap the 20" mid and lower from the 200 to the 250?
 
the 200 is a 2.5 and the 250 is a 3.0. different Mids and Lowers. Wish I could!

I am currently looking for a 20" Mid. Does anyone know if I can use a Newer Optimax Mid?

I heard something about the Tuner is Different? Can I remove the Tuner from my 25" EFI Mid and put it in the 20" OptimaX Mid?

Sorry this is all new Territory for me. How much has to be stripped from the Power Head to Seperateit from the mid? or can I justy leave the powerhead intact and Lift it off the mid section?

Thanks!
 
I would take some time and look for a shorter mid section and shaft. As for the tuner, I would not be that concerned, some people pull them completely out and drill holes in the mid section for noise, performance?, etc.

Chuck
 
I thought in Mercury nomenclature, the suffixes L, XL and XXL were the three shaft lengths 20, 25 and 30”.

Regardless you probably need to run a 20” shaft if you want the prop height where you should have it on a Pulsare. Jack plates do not have enough travel to make up for the extra five inches.

My 20” 250 is mounted on the top holes of my jackplate and that just gets me to the prop shaft even with the pad at the top of the travel.

3 litre 20” lowers are plentiful but also in fairly high demand. Getting a fat shaft sportmaster would be on my todo list too, if they weren’t so pricey.

A torque master will be easier to find and cheaper, but a good used one will still be hard to get for less than $2000, you will be able to sell yours, but 25” lowers are not in the same demand, so a harder sell used.

They made them in different prop shaft diameters over the years, so you need to measure your current one as that should help you find a similar 20”lower as the 25” you have now.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I think I found a 20" Mid from a Newer Opti. As well as the shift Shaft.

Gonna pull my driveshaft and Send to Chris Carson to shorten and Re-Spline.


This will be my first time pulling a mid section. Other than removing the Cowling and Lower unit, do I need to pull anything else off the Powerhead to break them apart?

Are all the Nuts that hold the two together accesible from the Bottom after the cowl and Lower are removed?

Hoping I dont have to pull all the elctronics/ EFI stuff off the powerhead to split the two.

I have the motor on a Stand, so Im thinking I can unbolt the Mid Section and Steering Complete, and use a hoist to lift the powerhead off. My new Mid Section will have the Steering and Tilt still intact, so if the pivot shaft is good, that should save me some head ache I am thinking.
 
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