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Block rotted out

ontherocks83

ontherocks83

Active member
Earlier this spring I went to start my 89 Strobe 201 with a 5.7L and because the PO ran it in salt water without ever flushing it, the block finally rotted out and it started pissing water right out of the port side of the block. :brickwall:

Needless to say my season was ruined. I am going to pull the engine and do a whole host of fiberglass work while it is out.


Does anyone have suggestions on where the best place is to get a reman long block? Right now I am considering a couple of options.


(Option 1) Get just a long block, swap over all of the tin, and be up and running for as little expense as possible.


(Option 2) Get a bare block and a stroker kit and build the engine myself, but would like to know how much more would something like that be as compared to just a long block. (also would I need a new carb or would the original suffice?)


(Options 3) Save for a little longer and go full new engine or maybe even big block. (this is the least likely but still on the table, I would just be out for at least an additional season)

Suggestions would be appreciated
 
I've been thinking about the block. Is it corroded clear thru or just a gasket, core plug, or component. If the engine runs good, but is corroded clear thru, what about another block, transfer your rotating parts, freshen it up some and you're back in business. Around here, I have been lamenting the loss of many of the old machine shops and their machinists. It's getting harder and harder to find a reputable place to get work done. I don't know if you guys out East are experiencing the same scenario. It has paid dividends out here to procure a valve grinding machine, brake lathe, wheel balancer, milling machine, lathe, lift, and such. I have heard that the insurance associated with the shop has risen dramatically over the years to the point where it is just too expensive and that as the machinists have aged, there hasn't been any of the younger folks interested in picking up the torch, as it were. As the old (there is that word again) machinist retires, there is no one to replace him. Many of the places that we did lots of business with over the years are now gone.
 
The Block is rotted right through the port side. The engine runs great and I thought about swapping everything over to a new bare block, but the engine being 30 years old and obviously not having been well taken care of I am hesitant to invest the time to re-use old components.
 
If the block is rotted out that bad, I would consider the entire engine a loss. You have to figure that the heads are corroded almost as bad and even the exhaust as well. If it was mine, I would replace it all just to have some piece of mind next time you take it out. However, I also agree with Jim on the lack of reputable machine shops these days. I am lucky that I happen to have one that I trust local to me. They aren't the fastest, but they are very good and very reasonably priced. That being said, there is a crate motor company out there called Blueprint Engines that are very very good. A buddy of mine is running one of their 632ci marine engines in his HTM 24ss. My machine shop/engine builder actually speaks very highly of them and even suggests his customers consider them when looking for a shortblock or even complete engines. Not really a bad price either. Here is one that comes with everything you would need, even the correct carb. https://blueprintengines.com/collec...ck-gm-dressed-longblock-carburetor-mbp3830ctc Just bolt your accessories and some new exhaust on and go!!!
 
Thanks Corey:bigthumb: Those are a little more than I was hoping to spend, BUT I think it would be worth while to save a little longer and go with one of those. For what they are the prices seem very reasonable especially considering a Mercruiser 350 long block is barely cheaper than the blueprint 355 with no carb. Definitely worth the money.
 
There is a crankshaft, rods, pistons, oil pump, camshaft, lifters, push rods, rockers, distributor, valves, springs, keepers and such that may be salvageable and worth $s. Maybe grab up a 400 crank, study the idea of stack height (don't forget oil clearance too), connecting rod length versus piston height, quench, static and dynamic compression ratios, maybe throw in a little piston rock and fun stuff like that and make it a '383'. Lots of parts to be had out there. Just picked up a 72 ish 350 for a truck project, runs like a swiss watch, $200. Came with everything on it. Out your way, you might be able to find some storm damaged stuff reasonably priced. That is one of the beautiful things about small blocks, they made a bunch of them over the years.
 
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