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..chicken pox on the hull

M

markmdz

Member
I've had my boat for about 3 years now and since the day I bought it it's looked like it's got chicken pox all over the hull below the water line.

I cannot seem to get a straight answer on this.

Is this bad? I know it's not good, but is it something that I should look into addressing?

Some have told me that it's the fiberglass catching water and causing the surface to blister, and that it's very bad for the boat. They went on to tell me that the only way to remedy this problem is to strip the hull down and get the entire thing re-gelcoated. That's not cheap at all.

Others have told me that it's a common occurance with the checkmates of that vintage, and that it was just a chemical reaction beneath the surface of the gelcoat, but it's nothing to worry about as long as I don't 'top' the blisters and expose the fiberglass directly.

Can anyone give me the final word on this?

Thanks,
-Mark D.

19'7" '87 Checkmate Ambassador - Blue on White.
 
I've had my boat for about 3 years now and since the day I bought it it's looked like it's got chicken pox all over the hull below the water line.

I cannot seem to get a straight answer on this.

Is this bad? I know it's not good, but is it something that I should look into addressing?

Some have told me that it's the fiberglass catching water and causing the surface to blister, and that it's very bad for the boat. They went on to tell me that the only way to remedy this problem is to strip the hull down and get the entire thing re-gelcoated. That's not cheap at all.

Others have told me that it's a common occurance with the checkmates of that vintage, and that it was just a chemical reaction beneath the surface of the gelcoat, but it's nothing to worry about as long as I don't 'top' the blisters and expose the fiberglass directly.

Can anyone give me the final word on this?

Thanks,
-Mark D.

19'7" '87 Checkmate Ambassador - Blue on White.
 
Sounds like blisters to me whick is common among all boats of that era that sit in the water. That is one big reason boats have bottom paint when they sit in the water. Depending on how bad it is, it can be very expensive to fix. Considering the age of the boat, you are probably better off having the bottom stripped and repainted insted af re-gel coated. Considering that it is only below the waterline, I would say it is from sitting in the water and not a Checkmate "problem"
 
Also, fibergalss is porous and that is why it absorbs water. If you are the one who has let it sit in the water, if you pop a blister or two, water will probably come out. Best way to fix them is to grind them all out, let sit for a few weeks in a dry environment to completely air out, then fill and re-paint or gel. Thay are called osmotic blisters.
 
...thanks Bill, but will just leaving them alone hurt anything? ..that is as long as I don't top off any of the blisters.

19'7" '87 Checkmate Ambassador - Blue on White.
 
Eventually, the water will make it to the glass and spread. If you did not pay too much for the boat, it might not be worth to fix and just part it out when the bottom goes bad. Without drilling into the bottom, you really can't tell how far the damage goes. Remember, it is water under the gel that causes this and it won't come out, it will just get absorbed into the glass. Your best bet, but it will cost some, is to take it to a marine surveyer and have him look at it. I am sure living in CT with the Ocean and so much water around, there are good reputable glass people around. Another option is if you don't have much money in it, take it back to C-mate, have them repair the bottom and interior at once. If you are not in the boat for alot of money, you will get the money back you put into good repairs. The key is having the job done right. If you got to the NADA web site, they can give you a ball park of what the boat, motor, and trailer is worth with options.
 
Thanks Bill. Good to hear, well not really, but at least I got a straight answer now. Actually, I've owned it for almost years now, and still have yet to drop it in the water. By the looks of the outdrive, one of the previous owners did dock this in salt water. But what I do know is that the previous owner to me trailered it, and only used it in fresh water.

I don't have too much into the boat, but enough. I bought it for 3500 with a single axle trailer, then got nailed for 750 for a new starter, celenoid, battery, impeller, and winterizing/shrink wrapping. The teak cabinets under the "dash" were in rough shape, so I built new ones and refinished all the existing teak that was worth saving. I tried to revive the interior, but it was too far gone, as the previous owner neglected it and let it get all weather due to not covering it. The finish is not that great, but I've been slowly using a product from Ardex called SmartCut to get the colors back, then using LiquidGlass to get back the protective finish. With that, and the quote of 1200 for the new seats/upholstery, (which I'll have to install myself. But that'll not be any trouble.) I'm right at the limit of the average resale of the boat. I was quoted at about 2000 for stripping and re-gelcoating the hull, so that might have to wait a few seasons if I plan on keeping it that long. After 3yrs now, watching 2 full seasons come and go while owning this little rocket, I'm itching to get it in the water.

19'7" '87 Checkmate Ambassador - Blue on White.
 
Here is what I would do if the boat is mine. Run her as it is for one more season and make sure the boat is everything you wnat. At the end of the season, if you want to hold on to it, dump the money in to her over the winter. The 750 you paid for all of that is about average. If the boat had a life in salt water, you might wnat to re-thing dumping the money into it beacuse you will more than likely need to repower and put a new drive on sooner than later. Salt water cuts the life of an average motor and drive in half.
 
I AGREE WITH BILL. RUN THE SNOT OUT OF IT AND DON'T PUT A DIME INTO IT. CHECK THE BOTTOM EVERY SO OFTEN, MAKE SURE IT'S NOT GETTING WORSE. ALL FIBERGLASS BOATS ALL YEARS BLISTER, EVEN TRAILERED ONES. THE WET BUNKS BLISTER THE GELL WHERE THE BUNK MEETS THE HULL, YOU JUST NEVER SEE IT BECAUSE BOATS ARE IN THE WATER OR ON THE TRIALER.

I am the one who knows all!
 
My 87 Senator had that same condition.I ran the snot out of that and it was fine.Its a Checkmate,It'll hold together!
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My 1995 Persuader 183 spent it's first 3 years sitting in a local lake (freshwater) before I bought it. It has blisters over 70% of the hull that was in the water. The red gell was slightly miscolored too. I ran it for a few more years, and the blisters didn't get any worse.
I want to back Zeus up on the trailer bunk blisters too. All of my boats so far have had some blistering right underneath where the carpeted bunks support the hulls.

1995 2100BR/1995 225 Promax/23" Tempest
 
I have only ever known trailers with rollers. Both my Checkmate's have had roller type trailers. This may be a silly question but I will ask it anyway. If bunk trailers cause fiberglass to blister, why do most people buy them?

I feel the need for speed!
 
Because roller trailers are the most horrible thing you can do to a good fiberglass boat. They DO NOT properly support a hull. Rollers will eventually cause your bottom to curve up and down ever so slightly, causing a serious loss of top speed. Rollers are OK for a fishing aluminum boat, but HORRIBLE for a fiberglass boat. Chris has the same problem. What idiot Canadian Checkmate dealer is putting roller trailers underneath Checkmates? I want to know! And they're e-mail address if you have it.........

1995 2100BR/1995 225 Promax/23" Tempest
 
For fear of ruinning what great relationship I have built with my local dealer I will not entertain your request at this time.
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I am sure by looking at my posts you can figure it out.

I never knew rollers were that bad for a boats hull. You have given me some valuable information JW. Thanks!

Maybe if I meet up with Malibu this summer he will not notice a trailer swap! LOL!

I feel the need for speed!
 
A bunk trailer can be just as bad if the boat does not set on it right. Make sure the bunks stick out about an inch or so past the transom.
 
Yes, bunks about 1" past the back of the transom. Bunks measured and installed in such a way as to perfectly conform to the boat's hull. If the Canadian dealer would spend another few hundred dollars and get the right trailer from C-Hawk, there wouldn't be a problem. Cheap buggers. My C-Hawk trailer has an ID sticker on it, with the model of my trailer listed as Checkmate Pulsare. I'll bet Bill's C-Hawk trailer will be model 240ZT. Measured, tested, and correct. That cheap Canadian dealer is making me mad!!

1995 2100BR/1995 225 Promax/23" Tempest
 
That is the best thing about C-Hawk, every trailer is made for 1 specific boat and painted with PPG paints. Overall good trailers
 
Maybe it is the cheap Canadians?!?! My trailer is a shoreland'r...I used to like it until today.

When the day comes for me to chose my options and equipment, you can be sure my trailer will be a C-Hawk.

I feel the need for speed!
 
Yeah... I never knew that one trailer could be soo bad for the hull, but I knew it would be bad. Whenever I get that boat, a new trailer may be in store...
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Z06
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Checkmates may not be the fastest boats on the water, but they are the nicest looking!
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....so I know that I'm a real newbie when it comes to all boats in general, but can I question some of the experts that have called all roller-trailers real bad...

...only reason for questioning it is b/c I spoke with Mike from Checkmate a little while back, and asked him about this b/c honestly, my boat has been on a roller-trailer for about 3 yrs now and has yet to move from the very spot I put it. When I asked Mike about it, he mentioned that yes, rollers are very bad for a new boat. Reason being, he said that fiberglass take a very long time to cure, and fully harden, like really a few years for it to be as hard as it's possible for it to get. So, his answer was that for any fiberglass boats 3-4 yrs. old or newer, rollers are a big no-no. But for old boats 5+ yrs., rollers will not affect the fiberglass in any way unless the fiberglass is somehow damaged, weakened, or beginning to deteriorate.

I'm inquireing only b/c I really don't want to damage my boat, and want to use best practices, however, I'm getting contradicting stories from two very reputable sources, and don't really know which opinion to take as fact. I'm on rollers, with a very good condition newer trailer, and don't want to falsly scare myself into spending the $$ on a new trailer if this one is perfectly fine.

Any and all info and advice it greatly appreciated.

Thanks guys,
-Mark

19'7" '87 Checkmate Ambassador - Blue on White.
 
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