chine walk help

[jazzy]

thats about where i was at after finding out why the port probably went but that probably saved me two lower housings since they were both full of water with no way to drain them now that the pickups are welded shut definetly some strange stuff going on but its resolved now

 

[jazzy]

well i had it out last night and im not sure what change made the biggest difference but im chine free right up over 90 mph so im pretty happy i can live with it loosening up a little when im pushing it right to the ragged edge of my setup

 

[happy]

I see you re adjusted the tie bar, repaired your shifters, did you do anything else?

 

[mkhammer]

Looks like a nice boat,and it runs well it sounds like, If you need a drive upgrade, I am a dealer for Max machine worx in Lake Havasu city AZ. First, all that is available is XR gears, Teague platinum drives have XR gears, Imco SC drives use XR gears.

The Imco SCX drive uses larger gears and the SCT. These drives require a helmet change. and will rob a little hp and speed but it is the trade off for dependability.

Max Machine worx has 130 mph Howard 28 bulletts that ran in the desert storm shoot out.

XR gears are far stronger than standard Bravo gears. Your standard Bravo 1 case can be machined for all Max machine worx upgrades, with aerospace hardened shafts 6-times stronger than stock XR, A standard Bravo case actually has more meat in the internal webbing than a xr and is stronger. Gear deflection is what eats drives.
They install XR gears, steel tower, dual bearings at the bottom new stronger shafts, Max top cap with over sized bearing, 7/16 cap studs. internal oiling tricks and meticulous shimming and set up.All in your standard Bravo1 case. They are rated to 1300 HP and are seeing around 80 hrs. on a 1200 hp twinscrew whipple engine and over 100 hrs on procharged engines rated the same hp. A standard XR or platinum will usually require rebuilding or have failure at 40 hrs when 1200 hp is put to them. The SC drives are strong also and I sell them too but will not match the Max drive.
Less hp will last alot longer. They also make thier own billet drives that claim as much as 6 mph faster than a sport master or SC lower.
When the X dimension starts getting high and the boat runs fast, it is very common to run a longer skeg for stability and Max machine works preforms this service. This occurs mostly on Cats but effective on v- bottoms too. I'm glad you found your sweet spot twins should not chine with your setup, the deeper your X dimension will lift the boat out of the water and chine more than where your at or higher. props with less lift will help but you want as much lift as posible and still run stable.

Call me if you would like more info or call Arron at max machine http://www.maxmachineworx.com/

 

[jazzy]

im glad you agreed with the skegs i didnt think my mechanics were crazy they are some of the most reputable high performance guys around here i will probably get in touch with you about drive upgrades but hopefully not soon i figure im not gonna upgrade untill i break these again but i definetly want to get those heavy duty topcaps my question is do you buy one or both i know the counter rotator should have one because the pressure is against it but on the standard rotation isnt the pressure going down

 

[jazzy]

oh and yeah there definetly is a sweet spot its gotta have enough fuel in it but not too much and then there is a fine line in the trimming between where it does a high speed porpoise and then starts to barrel roll back and forth right in between those spots the motors run right up to 5200 for a nice high speed pass but to get full speed i have some chining its the difference in trim between 5200 and 5400 on the tachs these trim units are different from what ive had before and i havent figured out how to set up a limiter so i can make em stop right at that perfect spot anyone have any experience with the trim indicators that are little sticks that run down the sides of the drives

 

[happy]

Here is a link for adjusting your trim and limit switches, comes with pics too. It says its for the alphas, Here is some pics. http://www.sterndrives.com/supplies/mdtips06.html. (for those that need to change your switches out, don't follow these directions, its too much work, and the drive doesn't need to come off, thats for both alpha and bravo) If I remember right there are two different centerline measurements 20.5" is for the alphas, and 21.5" is for bravo's and genII alphas. Adjustment is easy as rotating the limit switch one way or the other until you get your drives where you want them. The limit switch will stop trimming up at a certain point. Which can be measured and should prove to be consistant. A note to remember here, the limit switch is intended to stop the drive at a level that will not cause damage to the u joints while running. Not to set your upper trim limit for max speed. Make sure both drives trim to the proper height and are as close as you can get them.

The little sticks you refer to on the sides of the drives are spring loaded and can be adjusted by loosing the saddles up (hose clamps) this will do the major adjusting. The round cam that this device rides on isn't perfectly round, and is used for fine tuning.

Getting the trim and tab indicators to read the same consistently is a little different story, many factors from the indicator guage on the dash, inexperienced people often damage these when attempting repairs. Mostly the springs get damaged and the cables aren't set correct from the get go. The amount of slop in the cable itself, and the condition of the spring inside the tube along with the condition of the plastic arm all are important factors on consistant indicator reading. I've seen this process accomnplished in 10 minutes to all day. Noteably, after the trim pin on the outdrive is pulled, the fine adjustment needs to be reset. Its best if the person who normally drives the boat assists by watching the indicators.
Alot of the customers that I dealt with would run up to speed, stabilize then stop without moving any drives or tabs and measure the centerline points on the trim rams, and predetermined marks for the trim tabs, make adjustments on the trailer, and mark the indicator guages with fine line tape for different water conditions ect. With the marks on the indicators you should be in the ball park when throttling up and only need minor adjustments instead of trying to find the same spot everytime.

 

[mkhammer]

im glad you agreed with the skegs i didnt think my mechanics were crazy they are some of the most reputable high performance guys around here i will probably get in touch with you about drive upgrades but hopefully not soon i figure im not gonna upgrade untill i break these again but i definetly want to get those heavy duty topcaps my question is do you buy one or both i know the counter rotator should have one because the pressure is against it but on the standard rotation isnt the pressure going down

You do both caps even though the LH takes the presure at the top,On the RH the cap stiffens up the case and provide a larger more durable bearing and you would have 7/16" studs instead of 3/8". machine work on the case is required. Not only that they would look different the max cap is massive compared to a stock cap. Also I would recommend a stiffing block on each drive between the wear pads to prevent breakage.
I will post a pic of a drive I just had done I just have to take some pics.

 

[mkhammer]

Here is a XR upper I just had done by Max machine worx. The only thing left in it that is Mercury is the XR gears. They tell me that this upper will take 1300 hp and a stock Bravo1 case is even stronger than this XR. Arron said to run AMSoil synthetic with one quart of lucas oil stabilizer. Change it after every hard outing. With 600 SCI's you would get hundreds of hours out of a pair of these. The block between the wear pads is to prevent flex and breakage from hard running or racing which gives it more stability. These guys have a massive CNC machine shop and have figured out the weak links. Still they all break they have just prolonged it under hard running.
Far as your Lowers go Imco makes a 3" shorter SC with a longer skeg option and you can now get a 1-7/16 prop shaft in a SC. If you are Chine walking and have Porpus issues at high speed but is close to running stable , 1" higher would probably cure it.

 

[jazzy]

thanks for the info i will probably be in the market at some point but not until i break one again but that shorter lower has me thinking i still have a little over an inch of room left in my boxes to go up i may move the drives up another inch and see if that helps i should probably get that figured out soon though i want to put a swim platform on the back and its gonna have to go pretty much right on top of the boxes but thats a winter project

 

[mkhammer]

you must have stellings boxs or simular. Try 1/2" first.

 

[jazzy]

you must have stellings boxs or simular. Try 1/2" first.

thanks i did its better but still not quite perfect my next question nose cones i have them i didnt put them on but have noticed that they are quite bulky compared to some of the modern lowers ive seen is it possible that they are diverting too much water around the props at speeds

 

[mkhammer]

thanks i did its better but still not quite perfect my next question nose cones i have them i didnt put them on but have noticed that they are quite bulky compared to some of the modern lowers ive seen is it possible that they are diverting too much water around the props at speeds

Post or pm me a closeup pic of your drives

it's possible if they weren't put on correctly or not the right ones for a bravo drive.

To put on nose cones right, care of alignment and craftsmanship is needed for them to work right. especialy on a twin engine boat.
They need to be blue printed with each other, one slightly off from the other can affect handling.
I never seen one that just fits on they have to be hollowed out a little to fit right and shaped to form. I epoxy them on using straight edges and measure alot, then fill and shape. I haven't put one on in a few years becuase there is now sport masters, Imco SC's Max billet's. ect.

 

[captainmorgan]

need tech support on chining

man, ive been so mad for the past several years that i cant seem to get my boat to chine save my ass. only other problem is, i cant go over 58k rpm bymyself, or i nearly suffer a heart attack from whatever this enchanter wants to do , but it aint chine. if & when somebody wants race, i puss out unless i can carry their passengers. the more i put in the back, faster i go. 21 enchanter with a 75- 4 stroke cover, 5 head back seat, me in front, 1' chop, foot throttle to floor turning 7400rpm, drink in 1 hand, waving with other, smooth as silk, gps not catching up at 79 before the cooler went airborn into suspended animation upside down in the weightlessness of tangeir sound. me alone at 5800, no chine, you just scared to death it might. of course i filled my 85 enchanter with enough structural integrity to handle any chop. i laugh at the chiners, unless im alone...hahaha

 

[captainmorgan]

i want one of them under my black motor cover

it would be nice to have a v 6 or v8 under my outboard cover. but were running out of covers along with power heads. understand? those fools in the back seat supplying free trim are risking their lives when theres 6 pistons going back & forth 100 times a second @ 7k. when the whacky welders cant patch the powerhead, you can imagine what the cover looks like. thank the lord for aluminum meltdown, before shrapnel flies through the cover.