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Leaking Oil from Prop Shaft

Eluder

Member
Who has come up of a way to replace the prop seals without removing the carrier assembly
on a 84 Merc 200? Is it feasable to do myself-the book calls for alot of diffrent tools etc.
Thanks, Eluder...
 
Who has come up of a way to replace the prop seals without removing the carrier assembly
on a 84 Merc 200? Is it feasable to do myself-the book calls for alot of diffrent tools etc.
Thanks, Eluder...

All you need is to buy the tool to remove the large carrier nut. I think they can be found on ebay. You may also need a slide hammer.

OR you can make one out of some steel pipe if you have the time.
 
You really don't even the tool to remove the carier. Pry the lock tabs ouf of the water and run the nut out with a punch and hammer to get it started.Replace the seals and put it back together. You havent changed any clearances.
 
You really don't even the tool to remove the carier. Pry the lock tabs ouf of the water and run the nut out with a punch and hammer to get it started.Replace the seals and put it back together. You havent changed any clearances.

I tried that and the punch started taking chunks out of the large nut, so I quickly decided I had better get the correct tool before I damaged the nut any more. Once I had the proper tool I discovered why it wouldn't budge with the punch - that sucker is torqued down!

I used a 2 jaw puller and some chain links cut to form hooks (puller had bolt on jaws, I removed those and attached about three links of chain then the last kink was the hooks) to pull the carrier out. It took me more time to cut the chain links than it did to pull the carrier out (and it wouldn't budge until I hooked up the puller.) Once that was do it was easy to change out the seals.
 
Seals

You really don't even the tool to remove the carier. Pry the lock tabs ouf of the water and run the nut out with a punch and hammer to get it started.Replace the seals and put it back together. You havent changed any clearances.

Thanks, But not sure what you are trying to say? Can I remove the prop and somehow
remove the seals. I do not want or have the time/tools to remove the carrier assembly
just to repace @$%&%*# Seals!!!!

Thanks, Eluder...
 
I dont think there is any way to replace that seal without removing the carrier. At least not with out damaging the carrier of the prop shaft.
 
There's a video of a guy on youtube that drills a small hole in the seals then puts a screw in the hole and uses a slide hammer on the screw to remove the seals. I tried to do this, too, but didn't have any luck drilling through the seals, and I thought I might start scratching up the prop shaft. That's when I tried the hammer and punch to remove the carrier nut. In the end just buying the tool to remove the carrier nut ended up being the quickest and safest method of completing the job.
 
Not Worth It

I have heard of it being done but you take a big chance on scratching the prop-shaft where the seal rides. If you look up the specs I believe that the carrier nut is supposed to be tightened in excess of 200 ft lb's so even if you get the old ring out (after probably destroying it ) you could never re-install it properly without the correct tool. The carrier removal tool is another issue, I have had them slide out with hardly any effort and I have had to put a torch on some. I've done the job 6 times and everytime it was different, the easiest one was a Sportmaster.
 
I have heard of it being done but you take a big chance on scratching the prop-shaft where the seal rides. If you look up the specs I believe that the carrier nut is supposed to be tightened in excess of 200 ft lb's so even if you get the old ring out (after probably destroying it ) you could never re-install it properly without the correct tool. The carrier removal tool is another issue, I have had them slide out with hardly any effort and I have had to put a torch on some. I've done the job 6 times and everytime it was different, the easiest one was a Sportmaster.

Thanks, I think I will just have done-Its used in brackash water and I know if I BUY the tools I will be a B#$%H to remove!!! Thanks, Eluder....
 
I would never personally tear one apart that has been used in saltwater. Screw that. I'd probably buy a new SEI one before it got to even taking it somewhere because I remember the bad old days of $1000 bills just to open one up and change seals not to mention $2400 from the dealer for a new one.

Freshwater motors I wouldnt hesitate to tear apart even if I didnt have a carrier tool.
 
I would recommend purchasing the correct tools. Use some heat from a propane torch to heat the gearcase (not the carrier nut) in the area of the threads. Use lots of penetrating lube - Kroil or PB Blaster. Repeat until she breaks free.

It would dumb to blow up a good gearcase because of some bad propshaft seals.

That carrier nut is left hand threaded as well, if I remember correctly. It can be done, even on salwater cases.

In the worst case scenario, the retainer nut can be drilled in very specific locations and broken by punch and hammer to remove. Be careful because if you mess up the threads on the gearcase housing, its junk and must be thrown out.
 
Gear Case Tools

I would recommend purchasing the correct tools. Use some heat from a propane torch to heat the gearcase (not the carrier nut) in the area of the threads. Use lots of penetrating lube - Kroil or PB Blaster. Repeat until she breaks free.

It would dumb to blow up a good gearcase because of some bad propshaft seals.

That carrier nut is left hand threaded as well, if I remember correctly. It can be done, even on salwater cases.

In the worst case scenario, the retainer nut can be drilled in very specific locations and broken by punch and hammer to remove. Be careful because if you mess up the threads on the gearcase housing, its junk and must be thrown out.

I went on Ebay and found all the Special tools including the pressure/vac pump from a retired Merc Mechanic, so I will keep all informed on the process---retainer nut area has no corrision but will keep soaking it with Kano Silikroil just to be sure! Lucky for me that it started leaking know instead of this summer!
Boat was on trailer with plug out when SANDY hit the East Coast-no real damage except for trim pump which I overhauled from a used one off of Ebay. I hope to be ready for this summer if I finish my house which had two feet of water in it! Thanks, Eluder...
 
I would also recommend that you pick up a service manual from your dealer or online-they can be ordered directly from Merc if you don't have one.

Take extra care while removing the bearing carrier as it has a big O-ring on it to seal the gearcase. I would replace that O-ring while you have it apart. When you assemble, use plenty of 2-4-C marine grease on that o-ring, as well as on the seals. I think the entire area between the propshaft seals needs to be filled with 2-4-C as well.

You should have a very healthy and happy gearcase when you are all done:cheers: Heck maybe even some new Phantom Black paint as well:banana:
 
Prop Seals

I would also recommend that you pick up a service manual from your dealer or online-they can be ordered directly from Merc if you don't have one.

Take extra care while removing the bearing carrier as it has a big O-ring on it to seal the gearcase. I would replace that O-ring while you have it apart. When you assemble, use plenty of 2-4-C marine grease on that o-ring, as well as on the seals. I think the entire area between the propshaft seals needs to be filled with 2-4-C as well.

You should have a very healthy and happy gearcase when you are all done:cheers: Heck maybe even some new Phantom Black paint as well:banana:

I got all the tools and I have had the Merc service & parts book since I bought the boat 13 years ago. I wish I left the Lower unit on I think it will be a SOB to remove the carrier nut sitting on the floor with someone standing on it! Where is the cheepest place to buy 2-4-C? Thanks.. P.S. I still need to make a tool to fit the shift shaft--and old made in china socket will do the trick!
 
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