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merc 2.4 carbed, stalls at idle

ckmate225

Active member
I need a little help with this one,
My 2.4 carbed 225 started stalling at idle speed,It was running great a week ago, I did find a cracked bleeder hose so I replaced that but it still stalls. I have to set the idle speed up just over 1000 rpm to get it drivable, the whole motor was rebuilt last year as well as the carbs everything is clean.
Could the idle jets be plugged? if only one of then was plugged would it cause it to stall?
No problem with the mid range or top end, just lousey idle and stalling.
Fuel is all new, mixture is correct, plugs were replaced last week. charging is OK.
Also the idle stabilizer has been removed. I smacked the wall the other day cause she stalled just as I was coming into the dock.

Any help is welcome.
 
Nobody whats to take a stab at this one!? I am thinking possibly the low side of the stator is on its way out. Cause it runs good at anything above idle, But I will have to do an ohms test on it.
But If anyone has any ideas shoot'em my way.
 
I'm going to go with the stator. 1000 RPM is where the second stage kicks in. I even have a brand new CDI 16 AMP stator I would be willing to sell cheap.

When my last one died I had ordered one but it took forever to get it, so I found another one locally. When I wanted to return it they wanted a crazy restocking fee so I kept it.
 
I am going to ohm test the stator tonight and see if thats it. I am not sure if I can use the 16 amp stator with the system I have( 9amp) but if I can,I don't know if I will have to add a regulator or not, If it will work. I Probably take it off you hands.Thanks.
 
I might have a regulator as well but I will have to look. I collect as many merc parts as I can.
 
hope you can solve the problem... what are teh top speeds yet, i have reached the 71mph ...promessed you to tell you my findings...
 
I did an ohms test tonight. It shows a bad reading on the on the back switchbox between the blue and red leads. Very erratic ohm. the b/w and r/w leads on the front box show 6200 right where they are supposed to be so I am only firing on three cylenders at low idle. NOW, I have to figgure out if I can use lilski's stator. and if I can figure out how to wire in a regulator if needed. I have a week to get it right cause I am heading up north with the boat nextweek. UGH.
Pelikaan,got up to 63.8 gps with the 23 laser. 6000, still gotta get to 70 this year.
71 is flying in this hull nice work
 
I did an ohms test tonight. It shows a bad reading on the on the back switchbox between the blue and red leads. Very erratic ohm. the b/w and r/w leads on the front box show 6200 right where they are supposed to be so I am only firing on three cylenders at low idle. NOW, I have to figgure out if I can use lilski's stator. and if I can figure out how to wire in a regulator if needed. I have a week to get it right cause I am heading up north with the boat nextweek. UGH.
Pelikaan,got up to 63.8 gps with the 23 laser. 6000, still gotta get to 70 this year.
71 is flying in this hull nice work

I trust that you did disconnect the leads from the boxes before testing...:)

If you have an erractic reading you may have a broken lead that can be repaired. Give a firm pull on the ring terminal, if the wire is broken you will either pull the end off or you will see the insulation stretch.
 
Well let me know as I just looked and I do have the new stator, voltage regulator, rectifier, and even the flywheel if you need it. If you don't have a wiring diagram I can even note how my current 200 is setup and take pics for you. I even have switch boxes up the ying yang.

The only reason I don't care much about the 16 Amp setup is I am eventually going to convert over to the 40amp system off the 175 powerhead I took the mid section from.

Also all my parts are from powerheads that ran dry on oil so the engines were running fine until they seized.
 
I trust that you did disconnect the leads from the boxes before testing...:)

If you have an erractic reading you may have a broken lead that can be repaired. Give a firm pull on the ring terminal, if the wire is broken you will either pull the end off or you will see the insulation stretch.

I did remove the leads but I will check that. That would certaily save me alot of aggrivation and cash, Thanks for the suggestion!!!
 
Well let me know as I just looked and I do have the new stator, voltage regulator, rectifier, and even the flywheel if you need it. If you don't have a wiring diagram I can even note how my current 200 is setup and take pics for you. I even have switch boxes up the ying yang.

The only reason I don't care much about the 16 Amp setup is I am eventually going to convert over to the 40amp system off the 175 powerhead I took the mid section from.

Also all my parts are from powerheads that ran dry on oil so the engines were running fine until they seized.

It looks like I have a few more things to check before iIgo through changing it over to the 16 amp, I will let you know soon. thanks for checking, if I need anything I will like that, I'll contact you too see if you want to part with it.
 
I retested the stator, all connections were good, Looks like it willl need to be replaced.
I am going to grab a new one today and put it in tonight. I'll post how I make out with it.
Lilski, I need to get this thing right by this weekend, but if I smoke another stator, I will buy the whole 16amp setup from you.
If you want too, PM me with what you want for it I may buy it from you for a winter project. Thanks.
 
Sounds good. I hope the stator fixes it for you!

I don't remember what I paid for the new stator but I'll look it up and let you know.
 
I picked up the new stator at lunch today,(ilovemyboatilovemyboatillovemyboat... I have to keep saying that or I wont be able to justify spending all the money on it)
I bench tested it,6100 or ohms, both sides. I will through it in when I get home and reset the timing and fire it up. Hopefully she will idle now.
 
So to make it easy if this happens to anyone else, here it is.
Boat started stalling at under 1000 rpm, no top end power loss.
Checked entire fuel system= OK
Ohm tested stator. outer switch box red/white lead and blue/ white lead, inner switch box red and blue, removed from box and ohm tested across the leads,
inner red and blue leads show erratic ohms. outer box leads showed 6200 steady.
Pulled stator, replaced with new one.
Idles like it should now,
Hopfully this will help.
 
Wish you posted that 3 years ago when I bought my boat. I fought with your exact problem for weeks. I checked everything fuel related. I changed the bulb, fuel pump, filter, etc. to no avail.

At the time I had a spare stator from another 175 the idled perfect but had no top end. So I bought a new stator and it worked perfectly. Then a year later I fried that one and bought the CDI stator which is 100x better than the mercury one.

Just so you know what I found is that if you run your boat with a near dead battery you will fry the mercury stator. They work extra hard to charge the battery and will overheat. You could see on my last one how it got hot to the point it expanded and came into contact with the flywheel.

I'm glad you got it going and have fun this weekend with it!
 
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