• Welcome to the Checkmate Community Forums forums.

    You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions, articles and access to our other FREE features.
    By joining our free community you will be able to:

    » Interact with over 10,000 Checkmate Fanatics from around the world!
    » Post topics and messages
    » Post and view photos
    » Communicate privately with other members
    » Access our extensive gallery of old Checkmate brochures located in our Media Gallery
    » Browse the various pictures in our Checkmate photo gallery

    Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

    If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact support by clicking here or by using the"contact us" link at the bottom of the page.

Prop height

Checkm8fan

Member
Hello, I am a new member to this site and also a new owner of a Checkmate. The boat is an 1989, 18 foot exciter with a 1994, 225 horsepower Merc. This motor is turning a 23P standard stainless propeller. The boat also has a manual jackplate (Lift Rite) with approximately 6 inches of setback. We've only had the boat a couple of weeks and only had a chance to really run it the last couple of days and discovered that it cavitates badly , the motor needs to be tucked right under to accelerate and still has to be feathered to get any kind of take off. The Marina that we bought it from said that they were going to lower the motor but I believe it got overlooked. I had a look today and took some measurements, the cavitation plate was about 4 inches above the bottom of the hull.Let me also add that at speed the boat started to chine walk, also let me add that the boat is intended for pleasure, tubing,skiing,etc. not all out speed.
 
Hello, I am a new member to this site and also a new owner of a Checkmate. The boat is an 1989, 18 foot exciter with a 1994, 225 horsepower Merc. This motor is turning a 23P standard stainless propeller. The boat also has a manual jackplate (Lift Rite) with approximately 6 inches of setback. We've only had the boat a couple of weeks and only had a chance to really run it the last couple of days and discovered that it cavitates badly , the motor needs to be tucked right under to accelerate and still has to be feathered to get any kind of take off. The Marina that we bought it from said that they were going to lower the motor but I believe it got overlooked. I had a look today and took some measurements, the cavitation plate was about 4 inches above the bottom of the hull.Let me also add that at speed the boat started to chine walk, also let me add that the boat is intended for pleasure, tubing,skiing,etc. not all out speed.
 
Welcome to the board. A that engine height I hope there is a water pressure gauge installed. You will have a lot better hole shot by lowering the motor down. You will have to try some different setting to find one that works for you and your boat. Just make notes on how the boat feels at each change you make. It takes some time but you will learn a bunch on how the boat acts. Good luck.

GusAvatar2.jpg



1975 Checkmate Tri-mate 2, 2.4 200+ / Sky jacker 6" plate / 25p Laser 2 prop
 
Thanks to 175 Checkmate: I marked the jackplate and have lowered the motor 1 inch. Now I just need a chance to try it. I have a pressure guage but I believe it is not working properly.
 
If you want to make the best use of high engine heights, try a 23" Tempest Plus prop. It is a prop from the larger diameter family and will hold the water at the higher heights. IF you want to keep your prop buried for ski duty, then run the 23" Laser II. It's from the smaller diameter family, and will work better for your engine when mounted low.

Checkmates owned: 1995 Pulsare 2100BR/1995 Mercury Promax 225 2.5 EFI. 1995 Persuader 183/4.3 LX V6. 1992 Pulse 171/1992 Mercury XR6 150 hp 2.5 liter.
 
Hello again,got to try the lowered setup still cavitates badly unless tucked right in. Also chine walks and oscillates at speed. The problem I ve now discovered is play in the steering linkage,basically the clearance around the bolts in the dual cable tie bar and in the pivot bolt on the motor. Does anyone know of a source for hi-perf. parts for this type of application ? I may be wrong but I don't believe that the boat will run straight if the motor can flop back and forth. At this time hydraulic steering is not an option.
 
Back
Top