Tools and supplies for floor fix.

[RAMAnnino]

I have started ripping my floor out of the persuader. I have used a hand held circular saw to get the big pieces out. Where the floor meets the hull on both sides I am confused on what I should use to cut the floor free. I was thinking about a dremel with a cutter head but didnt know how close the floor is to the hull on the sides. What have you guys used on the sides??? Also, what kind of resin did you guys use and how much will I need. Should I just use liquid nail to set the stringers to the hull? All info will be appreciated.

 

[BADBK]

I'm about to do the same. Read a lot about mantex and coosa board, but are they really worth 2-3x plywood glassed over? If so, Wtf do I get it at? Anyone ship it? Cutting the floor by the side of the hull also seems suspect. Someone said they bought a multi purpose tool from harbor freight but no link or pic.....

I'm all ears as well.

 

[Tx91z28]

i used an angle grinder with various cutting/grinding wheels, then switched to a disc sander attachment on the angle grinder to smooth it all out

look at mertons.com for glass/resin info, it helped me out a bunch

 

[opsdave]

I used my roto-zip with the 90* cutting head with the masonary cut off wheel on my floor. Just go slow and cut out a little at a time. I used 10 gallons of resin on my project, but did a LOT more than a floor replacement. Good luck with your project

 

[opsdave]

I'm about to do the same. Read a lot about mantex and coosa board, but are they really worth 2-3x plywood glassed over? If so, Wtf do I get it at? Anyone ship it? Cutting the floor by the side of the hull also seems suspect. Someone said they bought a multi purpose tool from harbor freight but no link or pic.....

I'm all ears as well.

When I cut out my transom I used the roto-zip with a 1/4" router bit. You could also use a 1/4" 90* die grinder with the router bit. It worked great for cutting through the filler all around the transom for removal. I have the router base for mine and used it to cut through the layers of the plywood for easier removal. I didn't try to save the transom for a template, I just wanted it out of there ASAP. The black rotting wood was really smelling up the garage. I made my template by tracing the outside of the transom then trimming it to fit on the inside.

 

[opsdave]

Forgot to add........ I tried the Dremel multi tool on my boat. It is a very slow process and the fiberglass really tears up the blades. The best use I found for the multi tool was cutting the glass holding the stringers to the hull. Here is a link to the Harbor Frieght multi tools. http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/oscillating-tools.html?limit=30 I have used the Rigid battery powered one and wasn't impressed with battery life. I'd go corded for sure!

 

[bigredinohio]

I used a $30 Habor Freight sander/polisher with a 4 1/4" sanding disk...something like 40-80 grit. I also uses an angle grinder as well but I liked working with the lower rpm's.

Be sure to make a template before removing the floor. It will make your life much easier.

 

[JSmitty]

I have started ripping my floor out of the persuader. I have used a hand held circular saw to get the big pieces out. Where the floor meets the hull on both sides I am confused on what I should use to cut the floor free. I was thinking about a dremel with a cutter head but didnt know how close the floor is to the hull on the sides. What have you guys used on the sides??? Also, what kind of resin did you guys use and how much will I need. Should I just use liquid nail to set the stringers to the hull? All info will be appreciated.

I used a circular saw, then an angle grinder with a C7 Bad Blade to get closer to the edge, then a Harbor Freight multi-tool with a metal cutting flat blade to clean up the edges. No grinding required in my case. I don't think the Dremel would be stout enough.

I used PL Concrete and Masonry Sealant to bed the floor and floor supports, but if I had to do it over again I'd use PL Premium.

I used US Composites resin, medium 3/1. Chopped strand mat on the bottom and cloth on the top after coating the wood with anti-freeze and two coats of resin.

You can read about my floor follies.

 

[SunTime]

I too found the Dremel tool like mentioned above worked best for much of the restoration process.

The attachment below in the link held up and worked very well thru out the process doing various jobs from grinding the glass or bondo to cutting it.

http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/oscillating-tools/diamond-grout-blade-67273.html

 

[Rob B]

Here's a list/picture of the tools I used for the Enforcer Resto and the list of supplies. You can see it all in my Enforcer resto.

Dewalt 4 1/2" grinder w/ a variety of cutting disc
Dewalt sawzaw
Skil Skil saw
Dewalt drill 3/8" and 1/2" drive
5 gallon Shop vac
3 different size wood chisels
wood wedges
two different size crow bars
32 oz framing hammer
I'm sure I left something off.
Oh yeah I used contractors paper to trace the transom out since mine came out in pieces.


Here's a laundry list of supplies so far, I'm sure some items are missed:

Merton's
12 Gallons of Poly Resin @ $26.00 = $312.00
1 Gallon of Fairing Putty = $45.00
1 Gallon of Hull and Deck Putty = $45.00
20 YDS x50" 1.5 OZ Mat @ $4.00 = $80.00
9 YDS x38" DBM 1708 @ $6.00 = $54.00
15 YDS x6" DBM 1708 @ $1.50 = $22.50
shipping = $98.46
Total = $686.96​

Lowes
3 shts of ext plywood 3/4"@$29.77 = $89.31
3 shts of ext plywood 1/2"@$22.88 = $68.64
2 boxes of disp gloves @ $8.98 = $17.96
30 tubes of PL Premuim @ $4.58 = $137.40
assortment of paint brushes,
rollers,sanding disks, misc = $200.00
Total $513.31​

Overton's
2 battery trays = $19.98
Perko Battery Switch = $34.99
Thru hull discharge 1 1/8" = $5.99
2 battery cables = $13.98
2 SS transom eyes = $29.98
Switch Panel = $44.99
Bilge Pump = $59.99
Fuel full hose = $26.97
Bilge pump hose = $4.96
Fuel vent hose = $11.96
2 gal of Ultra Tuff non skid = $139.98
2 qts of primer = $39.98
2 Foam application rollers = $15.98
Total $449.73​

Grand Total $1650.00​

 

[BADBK]

Ya'll are rockstars! Great thread RAM!

Supposed to be my "winter" project but I've already almost got the whole interior gutted ready to start cuttin! Hope to have it split in a week or two and cutting away.

 

[Madtown]

I will be doing my floor & transom with fall once the season is over. Really would like to find a material were didn't have to mess with the glass/resin.

 

[Rob B]

I will be doing my floor & transom with fall once the season is over. Really would like to find a material were didn't have to mess with the glass/resin.

Coosa or Penske board is your best bet, however you'll still need to glass those to the hull. I'm not sure of any other way around not using glass and resin.

 

[B.G.R.]

Just had my floor and stringer done. I got all info from the people that build Mirage boats here in Fla. They tried to talk me into light weight floor matl. but I went with 3/4 ply. I could shoot myself in the foot for not listening to them cause I'm at 69.8 mph gps and can't get that last .2. So I blame my self and the ply floor. Spend the extra cash and do it right the first time. They also told me glass work should all be coated with gelcoat because without it water can seep through. So all my stuff is coated with white gel coat. I actually gained weight over the water soaked old floor an stringer. With the new carpet all looks great and is solid but that missing .2 mph will haunt me forever.

 

[Madtown]

Just had my floor and stringer done. I got all info from the people that build Mirage boats here in Fla. They tried to talk me into light weight floor matl. but I went with 3/4 ply. I could shoot myself in the foot for not listening to them cause I'm at 69.8 mph gps and can't get that last .2. So I blame my self and the ply floor. Spend the extra cash and do it right the first time. They also told me glass work should all be coated with gelcoat because without it water can seep through. So all my stuff is coated with white gel coat. I actually gained weight over the water soaked old floor an stringer. With the new carpet all looks great and is solid but that missing .2 mph will haunt me forever.

What did they say to use for the floor if don't mind me asking?