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Transom Saver for Outboards

Rob B

Moderator
Staff member
As you guys know I recently rebuilt the transom on the Enforcer, so I'm thinking about getting a transom saver to support the motor while in transit. I've noticed all the 24' pulsares that have extended setbacks aren't using them or at least I didn't see them. I've got 500lbs hanging off a 24" gil bracket, so lets hear the pros and cons of a transom saver.
 
I've been looking for one also but can't seem to find one thats long enough to reach from the motor to the trailer.
 
I've used one when I can, especially for long hauls. The only scary part of a transom saver is if it somehow falls off the trailer side, the rod can catch on the pavement and hose up your LU! For really short hauls, like from my house to the landing 1/4 mile away, I don't bother. I dont even use the rear tie-down straps for that short haul :p

With your setup, you might have to make your own. My best transom saver is actually on my pontoon boat trailer. The trailer end of the saver has a component that bolts onto the rear cross-member, and then the saver rod slides into that component, then is pinned in with a nut/bolt. No way for it to come loose and fall off. The reciever component has an angle to it, so that it gives the correct upwards angle toward the motor for the saver rod. Do you need a pic of it?
 
JW does it look like this one I found at Overton's website that extends 59". Here's a picture:http://www.overtons.com/modperl/pro...69&pdesc=Adjustable_Frame_Mount_Transom_Saver
75869_L1.jpg
 
I have always used a Transom saver. Next time you are on the highway and you see another boat, check out how much the motor bounces around.
 
I have always used a Transom saver. Next time you are on the highway and you see another boat, check out how much the motor bounces around.

I've used them on all my bassboats and even the Pulse170. I'm not sure why the PO didn't have one with the enforcer.:confused:
 
No offense, but I don't see the need for them. The load of a motor while towing is far less than jacking and trimming it at WOT while running. I tow with the jack plate up and the motor trimmed down, so no real bouncing possible.

(Actually, my run to the ramp is only 1/4 mile, so I really don't tow any distance very often.)

Even if there was, if the motor is kicked up, the powerhead CG is over the transom anyway. There is no load on the lower unit to do any good by connecting it to the trailer cross member.

Ever kick up a V6 motor by releasing the trim/tilt and pulling on the LU? Once the powerhead CG is over the transom, the weight on the LU is very small. Maybe use a 2x4 over the trim cylinders if you want to take load off the trim/tilt.
 
No offense taken, I have a bit of a drive to any launch, over bumpy roads and rail road tracks. I have always used them, and always will. I am not about to use a 2x4, the transom saver does the trick.
 
i have always used one....i ended up making a extension bracket or the trailer do to the 12 inches of setback:( i'll see if i can find a pic....
 
in addition.....

CMpulse is running 24" of setback! no CG ove a transom there!!

my enchanter had one made that actually braced the trailer to the jack plate, it was a threaded rod style that i could adjust the tension on the bracket, so with the back of the boat strapped down and the bar with tension on it, it was solid. the movement of the motor didnt hurt a thing!

I wish i had pics to share, was a great setup, you could actually lift the rear of the boat with that thing!! :eyecrazy:
 
I just don't see the physics involved that add up. It seems like a regional bass/small boat thing. Most boat and motor manufacturers don't require/promote them. Maybe some do?

If bouncing over a pothole will crack a boats transom, I don't want to be in rough (or calm) water with that boat at full throttle.
 
i have 8.5 inches of setback on my pulse and i have never used one. some people run them around here but if you trim down your motor and lift the jackplate up theirs not much bouncing going on... have u ever been going across a bunch of rough chop and look back at your outboard??? next time take a look and thats WAY more tough on the transom or brackets than just trailering it to your local landing.. just my two cents..
 
I just don't see the physics involved that add up. It seems like a regional bass/small boat thing. Most boat and motor manufacturers don't require/promote them. Maybe some do?

If bouncing over a pothole will crack a boats transom, I don't want to be in rough (or calm) water with that boat at full throttle.


im not trying to create an arguement but its not just bouncing over a pothole, its continuous weight bouncing back there....especially on a 24" setback, imagine the leverage to lift the boat underway, thats similar to whats bouncing back there while trailering. i would think that on the water, underway, in the rough stuff, it wouldnt be quite as hard as the wwight of the powerhead back there.
I do see what your saying but why make the problem worse, possibly, just help protect it is all im saying.

"Most boat and motor manufacturers don't require/promote them" and most dont promote/require many of the things that we do to our boats, but we still do them :devil:.
My .02, protect what you can, this ones a simple problem and cheap too! just make sure its doing whats intended otherwise its a waste.
 
JW does it look like this one I found at Overton's website that extends 59". Here's a picture:http://www.overtons.com/modperl/pro...69&pdesc=Adjustable_Frame_Mount_Transom_Saver
75869_L1.jpg

Yep, my tooner transom saver looks like that one, but my rod is straight not bent. The piece that bolts to the trailer frame is what's angled up. Either way, I think the light weight motors benefit most from transom savers. I'm not sure you'll be able to take advantage of what little support they provide with as much setback as you've got.
 
I have never understood the physics of them. The Lower unit is a big lever, all the weight is at the powerhead. If the trim/tilt system is disconnected, you can lift the motor up from where the "transom saver" connects.

If anything, if your boat bounces, your are transferring huge forces from the trailer to the Lower unit, not the other way around. Kind of like a linebacker running into a small QB, the biggest mass wins.

If the goal is to take load off the hydaulics, then do that with a PVC spacer or a block of wood.

I know, if you use a TS it is like a religion, you have to have faith, but I think they are snake oil. :cool:
 
I have never understood the physics of them. The Lower unit is a big lever, all the weight is at the powerhead. If the trim/tilt system is disconnected, you can lift the motor up from where the "transom saver" connects.

If anything, if your boat bounces, your are transferring huge forces from the trailer to the Lower unit, not the other way around. Kind of like a linebacker running into a small QB, the biggest mass wins.

If the goal is to take load off the hydaulics, then do that with a PVC spacer or a block of wood.

I know, if you use a TS it is like a religion, you have to have faith, but I think they are snake oil. :cool:

My understanding of the transom saver is to distribute the load/energy from bouncing to the trailer while in transit. However I do understand what you're saying. On the Ranger bassboats with the built in setback they do not use the transom savers.
 
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