Trophy Plus 26 on Pulsare 2100/225Xri

[JUPITER PULSARE]

After being impressed with the performance results of running an Offshore 23 four blade prop on my boat, I made arrangements to get a Trophy Plus 26. I was running the Offshore 23 at 6800 rpm/64-65 mph. I'm hoping the Trophy Plus 26 will bring the rpm down to about 5800-6000 and pick up about 5 mph. If I can run over 70 mph with the Trophy Plus 4 blade I'd be very happy!!

 

[hotbeek]

I'm not sure how the xri motors compare to the 225EFI motors. Do you have 1.75 lower unit ? What kind of rpms can you crank those motors ? You should be able to see 72-74 if you can spin it 5800. If you can crank 6800 I'd prop for near that. When i was stock powered with the 225EFI I would turn a 25 Trophy Plus to 5700-5800 rpms for a top speed any day of 72-73 mph(GPS) On my current setup on my Pulsare I can spin a Lab finished 26 Trophy Plus to 6500 rpms and 83+ mph(GPS). I've turned a stock Trophy Plus 27 to 6200 rpms and 84.2 mph(GPS). I'm having the 27 Lab finished as we speak and hope to see 85+ before winter really sets in. I'll shoot some video when I get it back.

Good luck with your prop testing !!

Keep us posted !

 

[JW]

I ran my labbed 23" Tempest to 74.5 gps at 6400 rpms with my bow cover installed and 10" setback with my 225 Promax, torquemaster lower unit.

 

[JUPITER PULSARE]

I tried a stock Tempest Plus 25 and the boat wanted to chinewalk bad with that prop. Besides my prop testing, I need to change my Hyd. lines to 1500 psi hoses and replace my stock merc ram/wingplates with a Seastar Pro Ram and wingplates to improve my handling. I'm currently running 7.5" of setback and will probably increase that to 12".

 

[claupie]

I tried a stock Tempest Plus 25 and the boat wanted to chinewalk bad with that prop. Besides my prop testing, I need to change my Hyd. lines to 1500 psi hoses and replace my stock merc ram/wingplates with a Seastar Pro Ram and wingplates to improve my handling. I'm currently running 7.5" of setback and will probably increase that to 12".

that is what i have on mine and it does chine walk bad...was thinking about getting from boatman the turning point 4 blades...

 

[hotbeek]

I tried a stock Tempest Plus 25 and the boat wanted to chinewalk bad with that prop. Besides my prop testing, I need to change my Hyd. lines to 1500 psi hoses and replace my stock merc ram/wingplates with a Seastar Pro Ram and wingplates to improve my handling. I'm currently running 7.5" of setback and will probably increase that to 12".

I was just talking with bluehealer about this. I remember when I started I was running the Tempest Pluses 23 and 25. I would chinewalk so bad i feared for and ejection from the boat. I later switched to the trophy's just to get a much better holeshot. I realized that they had much better handling characteristics. I do believe the additional seat time helped me tame some of the chinewalk too. I've never gone back to a three blade so I'm not sure ?!

Good Luck you're headed in the right direction !

 

[JUPITER PULSARE]

I think the smaller diameter 4 blad props improve the handling because they don't want to turn the boat on it's side like the big ear 3 blade props. Smaller, lighter, V-bottom, pad bottom boats are effected more by the big blade props....I felt like the Tempest Plus wanted to torque the boat off it's pad running surface with those big blades pushing the water. The Offshore I tried had no bad characteristics at all, just great hole shot and accelleration. The Trophy Plus shoud be a better top end prop than the Offshore! Hopefully it will arrive so I can run it this weekend!

 

[JW]

My Tempest caused ZERO chine walk on my Pulsare, but it was also setup correctly.

I had solid mounts on the motor (stock Promax mounts)
I had dual cable Merc Ride-Guide steering properly tightenend
Prop was labbed
And I'm a really good driver

 

[JUPITER PULSARE]

My Tempest caused ZERO chine walk on my Pulsare, but it was also setup correctly.

I had solid mounts on the motor (stock Promax mounts)
I had dual cable Merc Ride-Guide steering properly tightenend
Prop was labbed
And I'm a really good driver

Hey JW, I'm a really good driver too!! I think the 10" of setback you had on your Pulsare really helped prevent the chinewalk alot..along with the solid mounts. The 3.0 liter 225 doesn't have solid mounts from the factory. I've thought about replacing them also but I want to change my hyd. ram first to see what happens. Besides, the chine walk keeps it interesting, challenging, and at times turns your knuckles white (and the faces of you passengers)!!

 

[boatman4021]

Solid motor mounts will have no affect on chine walk. At w.o.t. the motor is torqued in one direction and it does not give. Tighter steering does not prevent chine walk, but makes it easier to correct. Proper setup and the right prop have a major affect on chine walk. After that, seat time is the only cure! boatman

 

[claupie]

I ran my labbed 23" Tempest to 74.5 gps at 6400 rpms with my bow cover installed and 10" setback with my 225 Promax, torquemaster lower unit.

can you tell me what ''labbed'' means ... thanks

pierre

 

[daren34]

here is an article from mercury
http://www.fishingkeywest.com/mercury_lab_finished_propellers.htm

daren

 

[JUPITER PULSARE]

can you tell me what ''labbed'' means ... thanks

pierre

Labbed mean that the prop has been sent to a specialist to thin, sharpen, balance the blades, improve the performance, recup, etc. Mercury has it's own Lab finished props. DAH is another expert in the field.

 

[SCT]

Hey Jup, I agree w/ you about running Tempest props on a 2100. I didn't like how the prop handled on my 2100BR/300X.

My best all around handling prop was a labbed Trophy. It was only a few mph off top speed from my 28' ET but the handling was awsome. I keep on reading that you have to get Trophies labbed in order to get good results from the prop. The guys over on SF say stock Trophies out of the box are notorious for being way out of wack.

Cheers-

 

[JUPITER PULSARE]

Hey Jup, I agree w/ you about running Tempest props on a 2100. I didn't like how the prop handled on my 2100BR/300X.

My best all around handling prop was a labbed Trophy. It was only a few mph off top speed from my 28' ET but the handling was awsome. I keep on reading that you have to get Trophies labbed in order to get good results from the prop. The guys over on SF say stock Trophies out of the box are notorious for being way out of wack.

Cheers-

Hey Shannon, I'll soon find out and post my results. I have a 26 DAH chopper (it's damaged now) that ran well on my Pulsare...My 28 DAH Chopper was too big but gave me some strong upstairs numbers...

 

[JW]

Solid motor mounts will have no affect on chine walk. At w.o.t. the motor is torqued in one direction and it does not give. Tighter steering does not prevent chine walk, but makes it easier to correct. Proper setup and the right prop have a major affect on chine walk. After that, seat time is the only cure! boatman

I'll have to diagree 100% with Boatman on that one concerning the mounts. Yes, at any power setting the motor will 'torque' to the side, BUT you're forgetting that as the boat wants to start chine walking, the motor WILL move left/right on rubber mounts and is one of the 3 biggest causes of chine walking. I've driven a lot of boats fast, and the only boats that I've owned with very little to NO chine walking had solid motor mounts. Same steering, same props, different mounts..........

Big 3: Soft motor mounts, Loose steering, Bad and/or buried prop.

 

[boatman4021]

I took my boat to a shop on lake Murray S.C. and had solid mounts installed after a day of running wide open, went back out on the water and only difference I could see was more vibration in the boat. The motor doesn't wonder back and forth from being torqued to relaxed, it stays torqued. The boat is doing the wondering not the motor. Solid motor mounts may make it a little easier to correct chine walk, but rubber ones are not causing it. boatman

 

[JUPITER PULSARE]

I took my boat to a shop on lake Murray S.C. and had solid mounts installed after a day of running wide open, went back out on the water and only difference I could see was more vibration in the boat. The motor doesn't wonder back and forth from being torqued to relaxed, it stays torqued. The boat is doing the wondering not the motor. Solid motor mounts may make it a little easier to correct chine walk, but rubber ones are not causing it. boatman

Interesting conflicting views! I would tend to agree with Boatman...I don't think the solid mounts would make than much of a difference. I think the right setback, motor height, prop and tight steering would be the major players!

 

[JW]

Solid motor mounts do make a huge difference with chine walking, but don't just go by what my experiences are. Head on over to Scream and Fly where all the REALLY fast boats are and ask the same questions of the boys that have been racing for years. Not only are solid mounts highly recommended, but they consider it a SAFETY issue for high speed runs.

That outboard will definitely move around on the back of the boat with rubber mounts, which contributes to chine walking. You can't always run in glass water conditions. Get your boats up on plane at WOT and best trim on a good 4" chop, then turn around and take a look see. You won't believe how much that motor moves around!

Second safety issue with rubber mounts: You know how your boats do a quick hard turn when you chop the throttle at 70+ mph? That's the motor unloading the torque and moving with the soft mounts. With my solid mount boats, you could chop the throttle at any speed and any trim angle and keep going straight without steering input.

 

[JUPITER PULSARE]

I may soon find out what make the most difference. I'm going to improve one item at a time...probably start with the least expensive which would be the solid mounts, next would be replacing my old Mercury hyd ram and wing plates with a Sea Star Pro and 1500 psi lines. Last would be increasing set back to 12".