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wanted: wiring diagram
- Thread starter thunder
- Start date
bdusted440
Active member
Are you looking for the engine and controll wirng diagram or the boat lighting and gauge diagram?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
CHECKMATE'S AND MOPAR'S GOTA LOVE EM
77 trimate merc150xr6
84 ambasador v8 i/o project
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
CHECKMATE'S AND MOPAR'S GOTA LOVE EM
77 trimate merc150xr6
84 ambasador v8 i/o project
bdusted440
Active member
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
CHECKMATE'S AND MOPAR'S GOTA LOVE EM
77 trimate merc150xr6
84 ambasador v8 i/o project
I will be re-wiring all the gauges on mine. When I installed the gauges I ran new wires. One thing that was not there from the factory was a terminal block. With out the block all the wires had to run to the batt for pos and neg.
I am going to clean most of that up.
As far as the running lights go its a 2 wire connection run to the dash in a 3 position switch, one positon is just the stern light, (at anchor) the other postion is both bow and stern light, (running) and the last position would be off.
1975 Checkmate Tri-mate 2, 2.4 200+ / Sky jacker 6" plate / 25p Laser 2 prop, Currently the boat is undergoing overhaul.
I am going to clean most of that up.
As far as the running lights go its a 2 wire connection run to the dash in a 3 position switch, one positon is just the stern light, (at anchor) the other postion is both bow and stern light, (running) and the last position would be off.
1975 Checkmate Tri-mate 2, 2.4 200+ / Sky jacker 6" plate / 25p Laser 2 prop, Currently the boat is undergoing overhaul.
What happened is that some previous owners have tried to add things, ie a radio, a 12 volt outlet, etc, and have hacked the wiring harness up pretty good. Also, the bilge pump wiring and the wiring to the nav lights are totally messed up.
In addition, someone has bypassed the emergency stop switch(lanyard attaches by the controller), so that needs to be fixed. The switch panel has a switch for the fuel pump but I don't think the fuel pump is getting any power. Is it electric?(the engine doesn't start regardless)
Lastly, some of the wiring is just falling apart and needs replacement. I also have a big rats nest of wire back by the battery that needs sorting out. Alot of work.......
Any help would definately be appreciated.....Thunder
In addition, someone has bypassed the emergency stop switch(lanyard attaches by the controller), so that needs to be fixed. The switch panel has a switch for the fuel pump but I don't think the fuel pump is getting any power. Is it electric?(the engine doesn't start regardless)
Lastly, some of the wiring is just falling apart and needs replacement. I also have a big rats nest of wire back by the battery that needs sorting out. Alot of work.......
Any help would definately be appreciated.....Thunder
F150GT
Member
Sounds like you need to start over, You can probably buy a new complete harness for a new currant production boat and adapt it to fit yours. The electrical system in these size boats are quite basic, you can build your own with some supplies from your local boating store and a simple circiut diagram. I could probably draw you up one and mail it to you if you like.
F150GT
F150GT
bdusted440
Active member
If you get a clymer manual it has the scematics in it for the ignition system and some general diagrams for lighting.When I pull my mate out in a couple of weeks I can diagram the systems and scan them for you.But to put it basicly if you have a multimeter you can trace out and test all youre circuts.Just remember you have to have a supply, a load and a ground on each circut to make it work.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
CHECKMATE'S AND MOPAR'S GOTA LOVE EM
77 trimate merc150xr6
84 ambasador v8 i/o project
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
CHECKMATE'S AND MOPAR'S GOTA LOVE EM
77 trimate merc150xr6
84 ambasador v8 i/o project
Chris E
Well-known member
In all my experiance, I have only seen wiring diagrams for some Sea Ray boats. For the most part just follow the wiring conventions that the NNMA uses. Just remember don't wire the boat in one color (don't laugh - i've seen it, white must have been on sale). Using the NNMA standard will make sure that if someone else has to work on the boat they will know what wire is what. I'd also use the solder shrink connectors whenever possible, they help keep corrosion away.
Also install a terminal block up near the dash. Run heavy gauge positive and negitive to the block. Then wire everything that needs a pos and neg to the block. Remember on a boat everthing has to go to the batt.
1975 Checkmate Tri-mate 2, 2.4 200+ / Sky jacker 6" plate / 25p Laser 2 prop, Currently the boat is undergoing overhaul.
1975 Checkmate Tri-mate 2, 2.4 200+ / Sky jacker 6" plate / 25p Laser 2 prop, Currently the boat is undergoing overhaul.
Chris E
Well-known member
From the post up above - NNMA should've been NMMA (National Marine Manufacturers Association). That'll teach me for not proofreading. Anyway, I have seen in the Land and Sea catolog (and others) - a really nice terminal block. It takes ATO (plastic car fuses) style fuses. It has a ground terminal block and your positive feeds go up and down each side. Available in 4, 8, & 12 gang configuration and can be expanded if required. Makes for a nice clean set up.
bdusted440
Active member
Give me an e-mail I bought a seloc manual and it has all the diagrams in it I can scan them and e-mail them to you.bdusted440@aol.com
Hi bdusted440,
I'm in the same boat. I've got a 78 trimate w/115 evinrude outboard I bought originally and the wiring needs to be completely redone. I'd also like to move that contactor in the back for easier access. I've blown fuses in there before and I don't like standing on my head to work back there. I want to put it under the driver console. I could really use a wiring diagram too if you wouldnt mind? rjwolfram@msn.com
Thank you,
Bob (78trimate)
I'm in the same boat. I've got a 78 trimate w/115 evinrude outboard I bought originally and the wiring needs to be completely redone. I'd also like to move that contactor in the back for easier access. I've blown fuses in there before and I don't like standing on my head to work back there. I want to put it under the driver console. I could really use a wiring diagram too if you wouldnt mind? rjwolfram@msn.com
Thank you,
Bob (78trimate)
bdusted440
Active member
I have the same problem. When I took out all the all old gauges, they all worked, I put new ones in, now none of them work. I took pictures and drew diagrams of how everything was configurated. That obviously didnt work. The only thing that works is the new power trim motor I put in and the ignition. No gauges, bilge, or lighting. Any help or diagrams would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
DONCONVINCER
Member
I have rewired quite a few boats. The engine wire harness usualy has the ignition wiring, tach signal, trim controls & gauge wires, neutral start wiring and positive and negative feeds. Some have additional wires for the bilge blower and and pump. It's always a good idea to run a heavy up seperate power feed to the front for cabin lighting, running lights, audio equipment, 12 volt outlet, power inverter or anything else that might draw a heavy load. The engine harness may have something as small as a 18 gauge for the power feed. You can run your insterments off the engine harness and switch them with your ignition. Your accesory circuit should be fused or protected with a breaker as close to the battery as possible. The accesory power can be feed up front with something as simple as #14 lamp cord with a tracer but its best to run a black and red pair in #14 with 20 amp protection or better yet #12 or #10 with a 30. Once you have a good power source up front branch it off with a fuse block or surface mount fuse holders. Never run the accessory power feed under carpets or through upholstery, wire tie it to the side of the engine harness.
If your engine harness has been cut up you might be best off to get a new one unless you're a good electrician
Remember, corrosion is is an electrical connections worst enemy. Always solder connectors on the ends and use shrink tube. It's also a good idea to use anti-corrosion grease on your terminals. Any fuse holders, fuse blocks breakers or switches you use should be marine grade, automotive stuff will rust out in a few years
If your engine harness has been cut up you might be best off to get a new one unless you're a good electrician
Remember, corrosion is is an electrical connections worst enemy. Always solder connectors on the ends and use shrink tube. It's also a good idea to use anti-corrosion grease on your terminals. Any fuse holders, fuse blocks breakers or switches you use should be marine grade, automotive stuff will rust out in a few years