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What do you think about this jackplate?

Thanks, when I retired from the marine repair business I quit keeping up with all the new stuff that comes out. I guess you could call it "boater complacency". I'm considering upgrading from my long ago home built static setback to something thats adjustable. Bobs hydraulic it is.

The boat is a SKimate I, I'm thinking 6" max, currently at 4" I'm not sure if the extra 2" will make any difference. Any thoughts?
 
happy said:
Thanks, when I retired from the marine repair business I quit keeping up with all the new stuff that comes out. I guess you could call it "boater complacency". I'm considering upgrading from my long ago home built static setback to something thats adjustable. Bobs hydraulic it is.

The boat is a SKimate I, I'm thinking 6" max, currently at 4" I'm not sure if the extra 2" will make any difference. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

You'll be good to go with a 6" JP, my Pulse170 had the manual version worked great!!:thumb:
 
I was always sold on the Bob's, until I watched Wildman's video from the transom of his 2100. Alot of flex in that 1/2" aluminum plate. I purchased a TandH from ebay that was a new jack plate, but the pump was missing so I got a really great buy on it. $200! That was the only reason I even considered it, but after seeing it and installing it on the boat, I like it! I have watched it while my son drove the boat and there is no flex at all. I am actually a Bob's dealer, but after seeing the flex, I don't think I could recomend them over any other brand. They are a good jack plate, but it just depends on what you will be using it for. Horse power, weight of engine and boat, max speed. Just my $.02. If a Bob's is what you decide on, I can probably beat anyone's price!
 
Actually, after taking a closer look at the tandh you posted, it is nothing like mine. The one I got is made more like a cmc. The one you posted is more like a Bob's, but with the pump made into the jack plate.
 
I dont know anything about them, but it does say it'll handle a 300 hp four-stroke, and many of the others will not say that.
 
Its a funny story how the setback came about on this boat. Back in the 80's (when I was really smart) I came across this engine (175 crossflow) after a storm knocked a tree down on the neighbors boat. I aquired this engine (undamaged) and pulled the 115 off and bolted this one up.

Day 1. - tilted engine up to head to the water and fly. Damaged engine cowling and splashwell. Motor height incorrect. Boat handled terrible

Day 7. Tried again with 2" aluminum spacer blocks. Engine still at the wrong height, cowling still hit splashwell again, boat handled terrible.

A month later, splashwell fixed, cowling fixed, took boat to stepdads machine shop, someone who knew what they were doing made the set back and bolted up the engine.

Boat ran nice, and nothing broke. Read book on outboards.

So thats why the engine needs to be set back. From the beginning had nothing to do with speed, just tilting the engine for trailer position.

I think that the height is at a good average spot but i'd like to be able to play with the engine height with different loads and conditions.
 
There are alot of discussions on here about engine height, sweet spots, top end versus water sports, but I have discovered along time ago that you can take a 2100 Pulsare with a 10" cmc jack plate and 2" spacers, bolt the engine on as high as it will go, raise the jack plate as high as it will go and still not be too high. I ran my last 2100 that way and my 2 2000br's and never had any trouble hauling a load, or pulling a tube and still ran 74 with the 2100 and 76 with the 2000's. Never had to adjust anything. I had this discussion with Dean Reynolds last time I was at Cmate and he said the same thing. With 1 10" jack plate on a Pulsare, you can't get it too high! I know other boats are different, but that was my findings with the Pulsare hull's.
 
Looks like Junk, last boat I had a manual "Carolina" or some sh!y picked up on Ebay was actually pretty nice. This boat I watched Craigs List for months, then a buddy found me a CMC hydrolic JP, used but had all the parts and came with the gauge, wires and switches. I think I paid 400 for it, works great.
 
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