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motor advice

Now I understand. All of these guys who charge thousands of dollars to build big high out put engines have been ripping people off. I heard that Reher and Morrison was closing up shop and filling chapter11 because of all the money they had to refund to people who's 500" BBC's got out ran by wingtipshoe's 150" 4banger. Rumor has it that Sonny Leonard is hiding out in a cave in northern Va. NHRA has anounced that all top fuel cars running 4cyl engines will have to add 3000lbs to there cars to make it an equal playing field. Also, all cars running 526" blown Hemi's can now increase to 650" and 25% more blower drive to compensate for there inferior design.:brickwall::lol: boatman
 
Now I understand. All of these guys who charge thousands of dollars to build big high out put engines have been ripping people off. I heard that Reher and Morrison was closing up shop and filling chapter11 because of all the money they had to refund to people who's 500" BBC's got out ran by wingtipshoe's 150" 4banger. Rumor has it that Sonny Leonard is hiding out in a cave in northern Va. NHRA has anounced that all top fuel cars running 4cyl engines will have to add 3000lbs to there cars to make it an equal playing field. Also, all cars running 526" blown Hemi's can now increase to 650" and 25% more blower drive to compensate for there inferior design.:brickwall::lol: boatman
yup they sure doo..

gtfo if you dont have something constructive to add
i dont wanna hear your bull****.
 
It's not bull, why don't you listen to what we have all been trying to tell you. No one is really trying to bust your chops, just trying to figure out how we can make you understand. The people you are asking questions of and who have done this before( and I'm sure we will all admit we have done it wrong before) keep trying to give you good solid advice. But every time we do, you come back with crazy off the wall idea that your way is better. If you are not going to listen, why ask? Every one who gives you advice should feel stupid. All there years of exp and money spent were just wasted. We should be asking you for advice. boatman
 
It's not bull, why don't you listen to what we have all been trying to tell you. No one is really trying to bust your chops, just trying to figure out how we can make you understand. The people you are asking questions of and who have done this before( and I'm sure we will all admit we have done it wrong before) keep trying to give you good solid advice. But every time we do, you come back with crazy off the wall idea that your way is better. If you are not going to listen, why ask? Every one who gives you advice should feel stupid. All there years of exp and money spent were just wasted. We should be asking you for advice. boatman

im not talking about them not being constructive.. im talking about you.. i dont need the sarcasm for **** you dont know about... aka 4 cylinders.
please see your way away from this thread... thanks..
 
WOW! That was very well put! I noticed that even though the 1/8 mile et was slow, the mph was a little above normal which means what. If it can't get a 1500# rice burner moving quickly, it can,t get a 5000# boat moving either. Actually, those numbers were not that good. My bone stock dodge dakota ran 9.47 in the 1/8 mile and it weighed close to 4000#. But wait, it was a V8. And for your imfo Mr. Stclairnoitall, I have probably built and raced more different motors than you have ever driven and I will bet money that I have backed a boat up farther that you have ever driven one forward. So suck up you college grad ego and listen to what every one is telling you, not just me. If the truth hurts, don't ask questions! And by the way, I can post on any thread that I want, some one else may read whet we are trying to tell you and be smart enough to learn from it! boatman
 
It is SCRB's money......Go ahead and build your motor.....it will be cheap entertainment for us.....:bigthumb:

:popcorn:
:popcorn:
:popcorn:

SCRB......Automotive mentality cannot be used in the marine world. Boat engines must be built with tougher components because marine engines do not "cruise" even when running at part throttle. The motor is running at full load no matter what the throttle is set at. I don't understand why you would want to run closed cooling when you have a very efficient and extremely effective fresh water cooling. You can cool a ton of HP using raw water from the lake. True, the block stays cooler and doesn't expand as much as the pistons, but when the motor reaches temp, the pistons expand and the clearances tighten up within what I think you are considering to be "normal specs." Take your 4 cyl car, throw it on a chassis dyno, lock it into whichever gear in your trans is 1:1 and run it at a constant WOT with the dyno loading it down. How long will that motor last? A marine engine sees this kind of abuse every second that it is in gear.
 

yeah honda motors suck hardcore donkey balls.. make absoloutly no power until around 6k.. yeah **** that.. a stock AWD talon runs faster than that modded civic.
lets try this..
still street driven. matter a fact drove it 300 miles to the shootout and then home.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tmL8iSH2WaM

then theres this. which he still takes wherever he wants. and has multiple seasons on. with a stock block. 1300 hp.. am i gonna make that much.. no
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVFH6vxpkUo

i understand about the load thing..
im not building a 4 cylinder for it.. but if i did everything would be built to handle it..

second of all.. maybe the closed loop cooling was a stupid idea but i based that off of the fact i could not get my block up past 130 degrees i tried restricting it but it wouldnt work.. maybe after the rebuild i wont have that problem cause i will actually be making enough power to make heat..
 
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WOW! That was very well put! I noticed that even though the 1/8 mile et was slow, the mph was a little above normal which means what. If it can't get a 1500# rice burner moving quickly, it can,t get a 5000# boat moving either. Actually, those numbers were not that good. My bone stock dodge dakota ran 9.47 in the 1/8 mile and it weighed close to 4000#. But wait, it was a V8. And for your imfo Mr. Stclairnoitall, I have probably built and raced more different motors than you have ever driven and I will bet money that I have backed a boat up farther that you have ever driven one forward. So suck up you college grad ego and listen to what every one is telling you, not just me. If the truth hurts, don't ask questions! And by the way, I can post on any thread that I want, some one else may read whet we are trying to tell you and be smart enough to learn from it! boatman


look i dont have a ego. i am probably one of the most laid back people you will meet.. but what gets me angry is when people who obviously have no experience with the motor i am talking about. call it a peice of ****.. blah blah blah..

do me a favor. mr raced more motors. research a 6 bolt 4g63t the stats just might suprise you.. from the factory. basically using a tune and more boost. the stock pistons can handle 500 hp reliably.. the stock rods. 700 hp reliably. and the stock crank has been known to hold for seasons of racing at 1000 hp plus.. the block has built in oil squirters that lubricate the bottom of the piston and cylinder walls.. to help fight detonation by keeping the pistons cool. the bottom end is built like a brick **** house. and there are people running 1000+ hp on stock blocks for seasons of racing.. people shift the motors anywhere from 9k to 12k. and do it reliably.. the stock head is used for basically whatever you decide to do hp wise the 4g63 is not your typical 4 cylinder its one of the beefiest ones ever made.. if you wanna make serious hp with a 4 cylinder this is the motor to have.
 
I can't believe you all are arguing with scrb! Its his boat and he can do what he want to with it. If he want to build a motor his way, let him. Ya'll have posted your thoughts on what will happen and let it lye. See what his results are in the end. How many people f-ed with the first ones to mod the 4 bangers? Now look at them, they are running under the 8 second times. I have never bashed anyone for trying something new, maybe just teased them a bit!! But this is getting down right hateful toward him and I think its shiity. Rock on scrb!!:cheers:

Another thing, if the starter of the thread says "please see your way away from this thread... thanks" (a nice way of saying shut the **** up and go **** yourself), take the hint and don't post no more in HIS thread. I know some people might be to stupid to understand simple logic so just putting it out there :thumb:
 
anyways back to the original topic..

so 10.1 even if i can get 93 octane?
the boat will have dual widebands until i get it tuned in.. i can keep a eye on what its doing and prevent total destruction
 
thank you brian.. i am on here asking about what i should do about my motor situation the 454.. because i am not familiar with them..and dont wanna do it wrong.. although i voiced my opinions on what i thought would work. because i am unsure and it was an idea..
now if i wanted to build a 4 banger for a boat i wouldnt have a problem cause i sure can build the hell out of a 4 cylinder..


p.s i am currently on the hunt for a small inboard boat for the 4g63 project.

anyways.. back to the original discussion.. compression.. what to go with.
 
anyways back to the original topic..

so 10.1 even if i can get 93 octane?
the boat will have dual widebands until i get it tuned in.. i can keep a eye on what its doing and prevent total destruction


Running dry long tube risers (or headers) with wideband O2 sensors is a smart idea......I have a wideband O2 in my starboard riser and a pyrometer probe in the port riser.

Running the dry long tube risers is cheaper than doing headers but also still alows the use of a cam with wide duration and overlap like you would use with headers to make the big horsepower.

I would go 10:1 with aluminum heads on 93 octane only. I would stay around 9.25:1 or lower with iron heads because they don't dissapate the heat of combustion as well as aluminum heads therefore resulting in higher cyl. temps and more of a disposition to cause detonation. Plus, you want a lil safety factor in there incase you get a batch of bad gas.
 
I run 10.75:1 in my 383 on 93 octane with no detonation problems.

I would keep it a little lower with that heavier convincor hull though .....10.5:1 is about the highest you would safely want to go.....somewhere around 10-10.25 I think would be reliable with aluminum heads.
 
I would keep it a little lower with that heavier convincor hull though .....10.5:1 is about the highest you would safely want to go.....somewhere around 10-10.25 I think would be reliable with aluminum heads.
I agree with that. What helps is my hull is very light. When building the motor I was told no more than low 10ish on the CR. Next motor I build is going to have low compression but that is for another reason that will be added later:devil:. It will sound like some of the members on here......whine, whine, whine!:lol:
 
I agree with that. What helps is my hull is very light. When building the motor I was told no more than low 10ish on the CR. Next motor I build is going to have low compression but that is for another reason that will be added later:devil:. It will sound like some of the members on here......whine, whine, whine!:lol:

Mine is built to handle the same thing you are talking about YF......a thicker head gasket or some dished pistons and I am there!

:lol:Hey, on here or going into the motor...it is just a bunch of hot air!
 
I run 10.75:1 in my 383 on 93 octane with no detonation problems. I am running aluminum heads as well

i have iron merlin heads

Running dry long tube risers (or headers) with wideband O2 sensors is a smart idea......I have a wideband O2 in my starboard riser and a pyrometer probe in the port riser.

Running the dry long tube risers is cheaper than doing headers but also still alows the use of a cam with wide duration and overlap like you would use with headers to make the big horsepower.

I would go 10:1 with aluminum heads on 93 octane only. I would stay around 9.25:1 or lower with iron heads because they don't dissapate the heat of combustion as well as aluminum heads therefore resulting in higher cyl. temps and more of a disposition to cause detonation. Plus, you want a lil safety factor in there incase you get a batch of bad gas.

i have cmi bigtube water jacketed exhaust. loud just isnt the word for it.
 
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