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Matts94z28

Matts94z28

Active member
I am going to re-core the new boat on my own. After combing through this section I feel confident that this is the most cost effective (provided I don't screw up) alternative. I was really hoping some of you guys could point me in the right direction from past experience.

I recall seeing Rob B's post about US Composites being one of the better places to purchase materials. However, I don't really know which specific mat or resin I need to be ordering, let alone or how much. I keep seeing you guys and most others like 1708?

Has anyone taken any other alternatives to the balsa core? Is it possible to do away with? I know my boat has one hollow stringer down the center from what I gather. How about composite vs. wood? I'd think that today's chemically treated wood is much better in quality than back when this boat was built. I'd also think that wood would be more cost effective.

Let me pick your brains. What ya got? Don't make me drop this heap off and Rob B's custom boat restorations! :D
 
What happened in 8 hrs?
8 hrs ago I was reading "Turns out the floor is brand new and the core in the "pad" area is rock solid from what I can tell."
 
keith4216 said:
What happened in 8 hrs?
8 hrs ago I was reading "Turns out the floor is brand new and the core in the "pad" area is rock solid from what I can tell."
Click to expand...

The BOAT acronym struck with vengeance! Everything in the back is wonderful actually, but under the deck at the bow is another story. I was under the boat inspecting the stress cracks and beating around with a hammer when I noticed a difference in sound. I pushed up on one side of the V and you could feel the hull flex and hear it crackle and pop.

Climbed up in the bow and cut out a small core sample... nothing but some dirt looking material. Then I broke out the hole saw and made two holes (both sides of the V) and saw the wet core. UGH.

Looks like the smartest thing to do is replace it all. It's going to kill me to cut this new floor out, but it has to be done. I keep telling myself the plus side of things is that I can make a custom mount for the hot foot and glass in a flat section for storage. That and I will know it has been done and there will be no guessing.
 
Matts94z28 said:
I am going to re-core the new boat on my own. After combing through this section I feel confident that this is the most cost effective (provided I don't screw up) alternative. I was really hoping some of you guys could point me in the right direction from past experience.

I recall seeing Rob B's post about US Composites being one of the better places to purchase materials. However, I don't really know which specific mat or resin I need to be ordering, let alone or how much. I keep seeing you guys and most others like 1708?

Has anyone taken any other alternatives to the balsa core? Is it possible to do away with? I know my boat has one hollow stringer down the center from what I gather. How about composite vs. wood? I'd think that today's chemically treated wood is much better in quality than back when this boat was built. I'd also think that wood would be more cost effective.

Let me pick your brains. What ya got? Don't make me drop this heap off and Rob B's custom boat restorations! :D[/QUOTE


Alrighty here we go!!!:banana: First no treated lumber!!! You can get all the supplies from Mertons www.mertons.com , Joe is fantastic to deal with. I'm not sure the thickness of core for a hydrostream, checkmate has 3/4" on the pad and 1/2" on the sides.
So you'll need the following supplies:
http://www.mertons.com/Floatation/scored_end.html
http://www.mertons.com/Epoxy/polyester_Resins/index.html at least 5 gallons of general polyester resin.
http://www.mertons.com/Reinforcements/chopped.html
http://www.mertons.com/Reinforcements/woven.html
http://www.mertons.com/Reinforcements/double_stitch.html

Oh helped a friend out a few months ago recore his checkmate. We replaced core, stringers, knees, motor mounts and the floor.:thumb:
Click to expand...
 
You are the man! I will be sure to post pictures along the way for you guys... might even have to coax you by to check it out and have a drink some time. I am not in class this summer so I hope to get this thing rolling and have some fun on the lake and river.

It's sad to say I only took the predictor out 6 times while I owned her. However, the new owner is loving it. I need to get him on here.

Thanks again Rob!
 
Matts94z28 said:
You are the man! I will be sure to post pictures along the way for you guys... might even have to coax you by to check it out and have a drink some time. I am not in class this summer so I hope to get this thing rolling and have some fun on the lake and river.

It's sad to say I only took the predictor out 6 times while I owned her. However, the new owner is loving it. I need to get him on here.

Thanks again Rob!
Click to expand...

I'll be happy to stop by sometime!! You'll need to figure up all the supplies or I can help with that as well. You still got my cell number?
 
Rob B said:
I'll be happy to stop by sometime!! You'll need to figure up all the supplies or I can help with that as well. You still got my cell number?
Click to expand...

Sure do. I will give you a ring when I get it all cut out this weekend and we can touch base on the supplies. I assume I will need rollers, squeegees, mixing containers and so on.
 
Why replace all the core? If you remove the floor and find 60% of it is solid then you are only spending more $$$ and doing more work than needed. I found almost all of the 3/4" core in mine is rotten but only a small section of 1/2" was wet. It is o.k. to only patch in the wet/rotten areas. It's up to you but you could save some time and $$$$.
 
Rob B said:
I think so, all depends how bad the core is or rot. Those cracks in the hull need to be repaired from the inside before coring.
Click to expand...

True. Protek on cross county will probably rough in the exterior work and paint the underside before it is rigged again. Looks like most use cabosil for blueprinting the bottom. I may end up doing this as well. We will see.

RNGRDVE said:
Why replace all the core? If you remove the floor and find 60% of it is solid then you are only spending more $$$ and doing more work than needed. I found almost all of the 3/4" core in mine is rotten but only a small section of 1/2" was wet. It is o.k. to only patch in the wet/rotten areas. It's up to you but you could save some time and $$$$.
Click to expand...

I would love for that to happen, but unfortunately 87-89 boats were laid up incorrectly and most have delaminated. However, my boat sounds solid as a rock in the pad and has zero stress cracks back there. All the hollow sounding stuff is up front. Hopefully I will know more by tomorrow night when I get the floor out.

Here is an example of what some have found.

attachment.php


Check out how the core isn't even fixed to the V!
 
Wow, those guys on scream and fly have me nervous. They act like this is going to run me 2500-4000 to do the core and floor correctly. I don't know how though. A few rough estimations on materials would bring me near the $600 mark.

I went a purchased a 4in dual blade circular saw and some chisel tips for my reciprocating saw. I also got a box of disposable masks as well as some gloves and safety glasses. I figured I would use my old work clothes from Bosch since its all long sleeve and heavy material for protection.

Hopefully I can get in there and cut the first 2-3ft secion of floor under the dash tomorrow. That is where the stress cracks are and where the hull sounds hollow. I figured working my way back would be the best bet. :thumb:
 
Matts94z28 said:
Wow, those guys on scream and fly have me nervous. They act like this is going to run me 2500-4000 to do the core and floor correctly. I don't know how though. A few rough estimations on materials would bring me near the $600 mark.

I went a purchased a 4in dual blade circular saw and some chisel tips for my reciprocating saw. I also got a box of disposable masks as well as some gloves and safety glasses. I figured I would use my old work clothes from Bosch since its all long sleeve and heavy material for protection.

Hopefully I can get in there and cut the first 2-3ft secion of floor under the dash tomorrow. That is where the stress cracks are and where the hull sounds hollow. I figured working my way back would be the best bet. :thumb:
Click to expand...

Check out some of the hydrostreams restos over there to get a idea cost wise then compare it to yours. I believe those guys were vacuum bagging the core, could be wrong though. I'm trying to find a link on a hydrostream rebuild.

I found a gaggle of them:http://www.screamandfly.com/search.php?searchid=1374526
 
Last edited:
redstrat said:
This is going to be a good thread!:popcorn: Count me in. You can do it. :thumb:
Click to expand...

Thanks! You wouldn't believe the hours I have spent reading on this stuff. I am just a little nervous about getting the new core material to bond to the freshly prepped floor.

I am going to do my best to save the existing floor for re-installation since its new. I figure it is worth a shot even if there is only a small chance that will work out. haha.
 
Matts94z28 said:
Thanks! You wouldn't believe the hours I have spent reading on this stuff. I am just a little nervous about getting the new core material to bond to the freshly prepped floor.

I am going to do my best to save the existing floor for re-installation since its new. I figure it is worth a shot even if there is only a small chance that will work out. haha.
Click to expand...

you should be able to re use the floor if in good shape just take your time while cuting nice curved lines as long as floor isnt wet you will get it to glass back in
 
Matts94z28 said:
Thanks! You wouldn't believe the hours I have spent reading on this stuff. I am just a little nervous about getting the new core material to bond to the freshly prepped floor.

I am going to do my best to save the existing floor for re-installation since its new. I figure it is worth a shot even if there is only a small chance that will work out. haha.
Click to expand...

Matt it's not as hard as it seems. Here's what we did on the checkmate re core: First we removed the floor, stringers, knees and motor mounts(inboard hull). Next we grind all the body filler from the hull (7" grinder w/36 grit), the factory using this stuff for bonding stringers, floor etc. Then once we identified the core rot used a 4 1/2" angle grinder to score the core.

Next we used wide wood chisels to start removing the core then a reciprocating with a scraper blade to remove the rest quickly. Once you're done wipe the hull down with acetone, then lay down a layer of 1.5 oz CSM mat resin that in. While that's wet lay your core in (cut and fit prior) once dry fill in any gaps with cabosil.

Now here's where you going to add strength to the hull: in this order you will put down a layer of 1.5 oz csm, then a layer of woven roven, and two layers of 1.5 oz csm. Remember each layer is wetted out completely and don't stop until you're done, also have this pieces cut and overlapping each other.
 
Just a thought, I think I would remove the motor and cradle the hull before I removed the floor. You don't want her to get out of shape.
 
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