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Jumping in head first!

Rob B said:
Matt it's not as hard as it seems. Here's what we did on the checkmate re core: First we removed the floor, stringers, knees and motor mounts(inboard hull). Next we grind all the body filler from the hull (7" grinder w/36 grit), the factory using this stuff for bonding stringers, floor etc. Then once we identified the core rot used a 4 1/2" angle grinder to score the core.

Next we used wide wood chisels to start removing the core then a reciprocating with a scraper blade to remove the rest quickly. Once you're done wipe the hull down with acetone, then lay down a layer of 1.5 oz CSM mat resin that in. While that's wet lay your core in (cut and fit prior) once dry fill in any gaps with cabosil.

Now here's where you going to add strength to the hull: in this order you will put down a layer of 1.5 oz csm, then a layer of woven roven, and two layers of 1.5 oz csm. Remember each layer is wetted out completely and don't stop until you're done, also have this pieces cut and overlapping each other.
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That does put it in perspective. I am excited for a rock solid hull. Pictures like this are what intimidate me lol.

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redstrat said:
Just a thought, I think I would remove the motor and cradle the hull before I removed the floor. You don't want her to get out of shape.
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Got the motor de-rigged, just need to unbolt it and cut cut cut.
 
Got the heavy OMC off and the interior stripped of carpet and such. Made one test cut before the floor drops down by the front seat... this dual blade saw will make quick work. I am going to cut the floor out as close to the edges as possible so maybe I can save it.

Should have some good pictures for you guys tomorrow. :cheers:
 
Cut the lower section of the floor out under the bow. Holy crap its a tight fit and I think I am dying in this tyvek suit! Too a quick second to take a core sample and this is what I found.

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Rob B said:
How far back does the rot go?
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Not sure, I am moving forward first, seems like it is all the way to the front. I don't think I will need to go to the tip of the bow since it's not in the water ever.

It does seem more solid towards the rear. I hope to have under the bow cleaned up by tomorrow evening and then I will work my way back. bascially just need to cut straight up, come across, and back down.

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The core doesn't seem to go too far up the sides thankfully. I found that out the hard way. Not too worried about it though as it can be fixed when the core goes in.

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The hull looks different underneath the core from a checkmate or maybe you haven't cleaned it yet.
 
Looks like core goes all the way to the tip of the bow, but not sure. I hate to to cut out that cross support, but I guess it needs to be done.

It also looks like the core doesn't go any farther from side to side. It's just the overlap of the skin laid over the core I assume. I guess I should feather it in with a grinder once I grind the floor and get it all cleaned and prepped.

This is really moving slowly. It's really hard to move around under there and I don't want to add to stress cracks since the core is now out up there. Once I get it all cleaned I will cut the main floor out, let the air out of the tires and work from the sides of the boat from the outside.

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This better be worth it in the end! :rof:
 
Alright well I am done until it cools down this evening. I finally got to the end of the core in the bow. As I said I will grind down the edges and grind the floor to a clean surface for the new core to adhere to.

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Check out the only piece of solid core I have come across...

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Cut a spot behind the driver seat to get a look at the core... it's not there at all!

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Should be ready to order supplies mid next week!

This is a pain in the ass job that I am tackling 20-30 mins at a time, but it feels good to be doing it on my own.

I am going to run and get a tight fitting respirator before I start griding, I don't feel the N95 is up to the task for the powdery dust under there. Might get a fan too.
 
atc250r said:
It's amazing that someone would put a new floor down and leave the core like that. Scary.
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No lie! I think I have an idea how this got the way it did though. Today I rinsed the boat down to get some off the glass off of it and when I climbed in the bow to sand some I saw the water ran right through the bow light, down the center and into where the first hole for the core sample was made. I bet there was water getting into the core the whole time the PO had it stored.

I did make a little progress today with sanding. I got most of the edges from cutting the skin off sanded down flush. I am going to go back in with a flapper wheel to make the surface nice and clean about 5 inches out for a good bond. I think this project will run a lot faster once I am done in the tight space. It's really tough with it being so hot and dusty in there. Not to mention I have to be cautious and lay to the sides of the core area so I don't distort or crack the hull.
 
Wow... that is not a bad idea. Even pressure all across the core! Wish I could seperate my boat, but hydrostream made it a PITA with the rubrail.

I figure some cinderblocks and good ole SC heat will do the trick. I may even extend the floor all the way up to where the core ends for some extra rigidity and a place to install my 12in sub, box, extra battery and 2000 watt amp combo. This would of course be removable for when I need to chop some heads off!
 
Good news: Main section of the floor is out and it looks like I can reuse the hollow fiber glass stringers in the boat. Just need to cut the section of floor out out under the splash well area and start removing the core skin and core.

Bad news: We cut a little too far towards the sponson and put a hole in the hull! It is right where the V meets the sponson and drops down at a 90* angle. I guess if I were to do that anywhere it would be there. Seems like it willl be an easy fix. Big thanks to Scott Steffe for letting me pick his brain on how to repair it.

Since I will be grinding the area inside and out to re-glass it, I will now be blue printing the bottom of the boat and having it repainted. I guess there is a sliver lining to it.

Pics tomorrow.
 
The plan to fix the slit I cut is as follows:

1. prep the cut area about 6" around the cut. ( inside )
2. Die grind the cut inside to bevel the hard edge off.
3. fill the cut with "mohair" ( poly resin,cabosil and shaved up chopped mat).
4. without delay lam with 1 layer of 1.5 oz mat and 2-3 layers of 1708.
5. after cured goto the outside and bevel-grind approx. 3-4 " around cut ( you should have a smoth surface now because the crack is allready filled with mohair from the inside ).
6. lam the outside with 3-4 layers of 1.5 oz mat.
7. sand/fair.
8. fill pinholes with poly glazing putty ( do not use the putty to fill lows ).
9. final sand/fair with 80 grit on repair.
10. prep area around repair with 180-220 grit.



thoughts? :eyecrazy:
 
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