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I'm in the mid 70's I want 80mph+...ideas?

Ask and Ye shall receive-
These are some kits that I appear to tap and use a spacer plate. What I would do would be to find a N20 carb spacer, and plumb it to inject the methanol below the carb and ahead of the supercharger, so it will cool the intake charge. I have heard of some TR running over 25psi on the street with pump gas with these kits, supposedly they can compensate to make it like you are running 120 octane.
This kit turns on at a specific PSI, and you can adjust how much volume, turn on time, etc
http://www.coolingmist.com/info.aspx?key=choose

a lil more theory
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_injection_(engines)

These guys offer 2 setups (base $199 or progressive for $305)
http://www.alcohol-injection.com/water-injection-kits-1/universal-19/

If you can't tell, I am way fascinated by this stuff.
 
I did a quick check on your links, and noticed I'm too 'buzzed' to really pay attention. I feel like the Captainmorgan guy that was posting earlier. Anyway, it is someting I definitly will check out and so far sounds like something I will do. I'm kinda thinking about a switch on my Shifter to activate the juice. I like having full control of stuff, especially since the engine is in some stage of boost mode at most of the time and I wouldn't really need the injection until WOT, But I would also like to expierement with it at other boost levels also, so that's why I'm thinking the switch on the throttle lever that I can push when wanted.
 
I would sell the boat and buy that Velocity listed here or just say the hell with it and get a Fountian with Twin BB's:devil::poke:

He would just be backing up if he bought the Velocity and he would be lucky to run 70 in a stock twin big block Fountain. A Fountain is a heavy boat and you need some real power to push them.
 
Dude, believe me I have lusted for one for a while, but I am already pushing 500hp thru an alpha, and I'm at 11:1 compression, so I'm out of blower territory compression wise. Also, I have closed loop cooling which would have to go in order to run a blower and its pulleys, and there is a spar that runs across right in front of the motor that I think would be an issue with the snout of a blower....not that I have thought about it before. My next boat will be a blown Pantera 24.
 
One more thing, I don't think you would be reducing the reliability of your motor by adding the alky/water/meth injection kit. If anything you would be increasing its survivability by adding detonation resistance-even if you did add some boost. Just check to make sure your fuel system is up to task by using the brake-specific-fuel consumption formula. I used the formula to figure out that my current pump isn't enough for what I have, and I will be using a mechanical (I don't want to deal with wiring or melting down an electric) pump from www.racepumps.com . They also make a boost referenced version with a boost referenced regulator for you blower guys.
 
Here is the formula:
(max hp x .5 bsfc) / 6 = GPH
Charlie, lets say you are going to make 550hp (er on the high side for safety), so you would need a pump that can flow 46gph. Now most pumps are listed at their free flow rate, which is significantly higher and not that useful to us in the real world. You should be using at least -8an (1/2inch) line with a pickup and fittings no smaller than this, and a pump that flows 50gph under load, which a racepump is more than capable of supporting.
 
I really think the guy wanted to know if their was some inexpensive ways to gain and extra 5 mph. Instead of spending 4000 grand trying to get this huffer to be efficient.

The man says his boat already runs mid 70's his best bet and cheapest route. Is to try some different props. He might gain 2-3 mph or not.

We all know when we start hot-rodding the engine up their is always a endless trail of more crap that needs to be changed.

I am no saint here I will admit I am still on the trail of endless problems HP has created and will continue to create. If I could start over I would have never changed anything. Instead I am looking foward to changing my outdrive this spring because I garenaded pushing to much torque on a stock outdrive last fall.
 
Yes we did get a little off topic, however the origianl poster has not posted again since his original post 5 days and 27 posts ago, so I feel no guilt in being partially (fully) resonsible for taking the thread in the direction it has gone.

On the prop comment, try BBlades on OSO, he has a good rep as a prop guru and is known for his labbing skills. Boatman on this site also deals in props, and also has a good rep.
 
I'm still here and taking it all in ....

Sorry I haven't posted, but frankly the responses really open up some options.

I'm enjoying reading the posts and hearing what others have done to their Checks...

I'm also starting to apprciate the "can of worms" you open up when you start to "tinker" to much with a good thing. I think I'll run Summer of 2008 basicly stock and enjoy the boat. I may look at a different prop or better filter or exhaust system if I find something that might gain a few mph.

Thanks for all the comments and if any of you are near Yorktown, VA drop me a note. Also if any of you plan to go to Kerr Lake, NC this coming summer send me a note and we'll catch up.
 
wonder if the alky kits would work with a carb setup? never seen it but it seems as though theyre all for FI motors.

back to the thread, speed is addictive and can be expensive.

start with some of the simpler things....however, i read on another site that someone actually lost some power going with the K&N setup on a stock motor with stock exhaust.
he tested many times.
i think some exhaust and KN setup isnt bad but will you see the gains you want....probably not.

you need more power, like 10-15 hp per mph, my case was 13.5-14 hp per mph,
your boat being lighter than mine(i think) should require less.

reliability is key if your not gonna wrench on it several times per summer. but everyone needs to try it once, if you love youll keep going, if you dont....then run the stock motor.

my .02
 
You didn't say which 454 EFI your running, but I will assume that it is the 7.4 MPI 310hp? If it were mine and you want reliability and 80 mph GPS speeds, I would pull the motor, sell it and look for Mercury Racing 500hp Carb motor. These motors have came down quite a bit in price and would get you the speed as well as the reliability you are looking for. Plus I heard someone talking about putting on a show with the hatch up, these motors are pretty and would be a one off in your size of boat. Also your resale would go through the roof versus a modified black motor. These motors seem to sell for around 7500 turn key and you could probably get 4000 or more for yours. Let's do the math here..............
 
hey red, i like that. its all about gettijng that smile. my motor man merkman said on my first ride when i got my check that the corners of our mouths were touching our ears.
 
whoops, my creek was froze

sorry for the insult of stupid smile making laughter i posted the other day, cause it backfired. i was tipping the bottle, and the brain wasnt tipped off that it was 8 degrees for two days, and i pulled my check to the creek to go to work, and it would have cleaned the fiberglass from my hull, if i had not put that cup down. sorry buddy, and my stupidity, doesnt mean im stupid. it means that i got lucky. heres to ya. heres another thought- how about not spending as much on gas, but getting that knee shaking, speech taking, smile making flight, all in 10 minutes? guarantee you to feel exhausted, like youve been out all day, and us fools want to turn you on to it. go buy your 4 strokes, go real fast, but ill still beat ya, if i can find people with hockey skates to push me a half mile to the liquid at the end of that ice. haha:banana:
 

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so, why is that?

i dont make my boat look very good with a 75 on it, but when were out on the water, the guys with the 3 litres dont get that smile like the captain, nor do the big blocks in small sidewinders. if you start out smiling, you end up smiling, if your a safe fool like me. got to get some propane for the torpedo heater so i can thaw the ramp out.:cheers
 
To CAPTAIN MORGAN

You don't need to thaw no ice. Just drink a few more drinks put that damn piss green Pacer you are hauling that over powered raft with in reverse hold it to the floor and slam the brakes on. The boat will skip along till it finds water.

One more thing the strap on some helmets are not D.O.T. approved so make sure you use some extra tape on it so when your head hits the steering wheel it does not fly off.

helmet.jpg
 
well looks like this post going full circle...so to add another solid 6-8 mph too a mid 70mph boat = serious H/P so I to believe a small blower is the way to go, I am doing a 489 with keith black blower pistons, a weiand 177, 850 carb, comp blower cam, big rods, and water/alcohol injection, so we shall see how this all plays out in the spring....stay tuned film @ 11 !!!! Rob
 
I keep hearing everyone talking about small blowers??? Remember there is a ton of heat on those fast spinning little bastaches. Bigger blower=less heat=less likelyhood of detonation=longer lasting motor. Just because it is a bigger blower does not mean that you have to spin it hard, it is more effecient hence the cooler running. A bigger blower does not cost much more than a small one and gives you more flexibility in the future. Bigger cubic inch motors eat the smaller blowers alive and will not produce much boost on a large cubic inch motor, just a ton of unwanted heat. Just my 2 cents after seeing way to many guys piss away there hard earned money and keep blowing up or are severely dissapointed in the results.
 
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