Fuel tank corrosion and pitting

[Old Hickory]

Got to looking around my garage and decided I am going to work on some "other Enforcer" projects that need to be done. First is refurbishing the gas can. I have alot of corrosion and pitting on the underside of the tank. Take a look at the attached pics and tell me what you think. Is there something I can refinish the outside and fill all the pitting? Or should I scrap it; bite the bullet, and buy a new one.......as you can see it's rather extensive, and it is only one panel; all three underside panels are this way.

BTW compulse170 suggested JB weld and I had considered that myself ..... what do you think Robbie? I don't believe yours was this bad or was it?

 

[Old Navy]

Take a scribe or other pointy tool and try really hard to poke a hole through all of the pits, if it goes through, scrap it or have the tank welded up. Then if you want to paint it with some epoxy you will be OK. I flushed out an aluminum tank on my jet with water and citrous cleaner to weld bungs on it and the welder did it with no problems. A nitrogen purge while welding is probably a MUCH better technique though.

 

[yellowfiero88]

Couple options I would do.
1~Seal it and have the outside powder coated to prevent any more corrosion. Eastwood has >>sealer<< I have not used it myself but I have heard good things about it. This would be the best because the inside is sealer and also the outside from any new corrosion.

I got my dads 67 vette tank done at the local radiator repair shop about 6ish years ago with no problems so you can try that also.

2~The other option is have a welding shop replace the bad parts of the tank. I would say this will be a lot cheaper than replacing the entire tank.

I shot a leafspring through the bottom side of a S-10 gas tank back in the day. I did not have the cash to buy a new one so I JB Welded it. It lasted for about 2 years and started weaping. It never broke free and leaked, only weaped. I would not want this in my bilge area on a boat.

 

[smit401]

wanted to add my two cents on the gas tank issue.
I don't like old aluminum tanks. as you can see by the pics the tanks corrode over the years and the same happens to the insides if they sit for a while with any moisture in them.
I just pull them and replace them if they look like that. they are not that expensive, especially in the long run if you keep any junk out of your carbs or injection system.
I'm about to replace the one in the Grady I just got.there is a guy on e-bay who has a ****load of new plastic tanks.
his seller name is "great lakes skipper". check it out.

 

[SunTime]

wanted to add my two cents on the gas tank issue.
I don't like old aluminum tanks. as you can see by the pics the tanks corrode over the years and the same happens to the insides if they sit for a while with any moisture in them.
I just pull them and replace them if they look like that. they are not that expensive, especially in the long run if you keep any junk out of your carbs or injection system.
I'm about to replace the one in the Grady I just got.there is a guy on e-bay who has a ****load of new plastic tanks.
his seller name is "great lakes skipper". check it out.

I'm the oppsite after owning boats with the plastic tanks before. They just seem to bleed the gas order thru regardless of how or where they are vented. The alunimum will hold up forever if installed right to begin with.
Maybe it's the quality of the plastic that causes the issues ???

 

[Rob B]

My tank had the pitting on the top, the sides and bottom was fine. After reading about JB Weld and talking to other people I decided to use the JB weld to fill the pits. However I did the floor in three sections for easy access to the tank.

 

[mkhammer]

I'm not sure where your tank is located in the boat. I would replace it If it's under deck or floor. I don't trust repaired tanks as a permanent fix you are riding in the boat with the tank. If it's in a concealed place and starts to leak again you are riding in a floating bomb if you don't catch it right away. From a shop stand point I may think this way for the liability reasons that a new tank is sound and I know it will hold up. As far as powder coating goes it's not like a steel tank when they put aluminum in the oven depending on the quality of the aluminum. It can outcast the impurities in the alloy compound from the heat. This can start the making of new holes.

I would only consider welding for a repair.
Unless there is very minor repair I would scrap it.



MKHammer

 

[Big Red]

I hate plastic, metal, and fiberglass tanks. JB weld does wonders but I never seen a tube big enough to do a hole gas tank and somebody fast enough to use it before it drys.

I am totally against repairing old gas tanks even in vintage cars when you can buy them new all day long.

Their are 3 things that should never be boggered up

1. Brakes
2. Steering
3. Fuel system

All 3 will kill you

Thought for the day a 1967 Corvette gas tank brand new 228.00 dollars

 

[Old Hickory]

I hate plastic, metal, and fiberglass tanks. JB weld does wonders but I never seen a tube big enough to do a hole gas tank and somebody fast enough to use it before it drys.

I am totally against repairing old gas tanks even in vintage cars when you can buy them new all day long.

Their are 3 things that should never be boggered up

1. Brakes
2. Steering
3. Fuel system

All 3 will kill you

Thought for the day a 1967 Corvette gas tank brand new 228.00 dollars

Thanks BR, this thing is corroded pretty bad. Kip gave me quote on a replacement tank and it was around $600 a little over a year ago.... ouch! I'll contact him again and see if the price has come down any. I had decided about then that I would scrap it; but, at that price it's a little hard to swallow.

 

[yellowfiero88]

I am totally against repairing old gas tanks even in vintage cars when you can buy them new all day long.

Their are 3 things that should never be boggered up

1. Brakes
2. Steering
3. Fuel system

All 3 will kill you

Thought for the day a 1967 Corvette gas tank brand new 228.00 dollars

Yea they are **** tanks. Will rust up within a year on the outside, and its the same metal on the inside. Not as thick of metal either. We got a price on one and it was OEM quality good enough for bloomington status and it was over $500. Not that he will ever try or consider a resto of that status but he does like OEM

I agree with your logic but 1~not my car or decision. 2~it was maybe $25 vs $500+ and its the original. If it did not work then he said that it would be replaced. He had already done the SS lines and new fuel pump, I don't know why he did not just replace it and be done. 3~because its not driven much it sits and the liner they put in will resist rusting from humidity. Can be solved by topping off the fuel tank but then you have gas that can turn bad and gum up.

Its only got 42k original on it. He bought it off the showroom floor in dec of 1967.

 

[Old Hickory]

Did I miss something

 

[mkhammer]

Check out these guys they built a 30 gal tank for me for $450.00 it was the exact replica of the one I replaced, I don't know what price they will give you but you might try them their in Florida. http://www.boydwelding.com/?gclid=CNTut4W33Z4CFSIdawodOAV1Jg,

Another alternative I have used is used a poly tank, I sell them they are US Coast Gaurd
approve and they don't corrode they are like a fuel cell and half the cost of aluminum.
I use them when I replace tanks that are concealed in the floor or bow even exposed they don't look to bad in some applications.
The only thing is on the poly tanks they only make certain sizes so you have to settle for what will fit in you space. Sometimes it is a sacrifice of a couple gal of fuel. For this reason if I am going to loose more than a couple Gal. I don't use them, but most are pretty close and I like the construction of them.
Here is the link to my website of what tanks I sell they are made by Moeller http://www.boatingstore.com/us/MKHammerSpeedMarineInc/below-deck-fuel-tank-p3174.html
I have a source others if you don't see what you need.
If there is something that you can use or have any questions PM me.
If you want one I will give you free shipping on it.

MKHammer

 

[Rob B]

I had a guy that does welding for a living look at my tank, it wasn't bad enough to replace it. I guess for a piece of mind I shouldv'e replaced it.

Mk hammer that's the best price for a tank I've seen so far. The problem is that's it's too tall. The dimensions are 5" on the side 22" wide and 60" long, it's a 50 gallon tank. The tank looks like this:http://www.overtons.com/modperl/pro...Deck-Fuel-Tanks&aID=601R2&merchID=1009&r=view

I just checked the height on the gas tank the max we can go is 10" from the bottom for the floor to cover it.

 

[mkhammer]

I'm the oppsite after owning boats with the plastic tanks before. They just seem to bleed the gas order thru regardless of how or where they are vented. The alunimum will hold up forever if installed right to begin with.
Maybe it's the quality of the plastic that causes the issues ???

If a aluminum tank is exposed to water over a period of time they do not stand up to corrosion like a poly tank. I have never had a odor problem with a poly tank when installed right, Their almost like a fuel cell and a lot of boat builders use them now as a standard tank.
Installation is important but has nothing to do with it if it's below deck they are water impervious. A lot of boat hulls drain from front right past the tank to the back. That tank area stays damp longer than the bilge. Even if the tank has it's own concealed area in time if water can find it's why in it will. like a deck access cover.

A lot of it is protecting your boat from rain and leaks.

Even if you boat takes on a small amount of water and you have to use your bilge pump a lot. The water is moving front to back past your tank when you stop and start.
A dry boat on the inside is a happy boat.
I would agree with this if the aluminum tank had a epoxy coating paint or them but I have not see this done to much.

MKHammer

 

[mkhammer]

I had a guy that does welding for a living look at my tank, it wasn't bad enough to replace it. I guess for a piece of mind I shouldv'e replaced it.

Mk hammer that's the best price for a tank I've seen so far. The problem is that's it's too tall. The dimensions are 5" on the side 22" wide and 60" long, it's a 50 gallon tank. The tank looks like this:http://www.overtons.com/modperl/pro...Deck-Fuel-Tanks&aID=601R2&merchID=1009&r=view

I just checked the height on the gas tank the max we can go is 10" from the bottom for the floor to cover it.

So needed is 5" X 22"x 60" right? or what size do you need?
I believe I can get this size or close that will work. let me know I'll go to work on it. I have others not all are online I can get any moeller tank.

 

[Old Hickory]

So needed is 5" X 22"x 60" right? or what size do you need?
I believe I can get this size or close that will work. let me know I'll go to work on it. I have others not all are online I can get any moeller tank.

Thanks mkh, I'll give you the exact dimensions of my tank. cmp170 has the same boat I do; so the dimensions would be the same. Ours is a funny shape, alot of tanks look similar but most are either too wide; too tall; or both.

 

[mkhammer]

Thanks mkh, I'll give you the exact dimensions of my tank. cmp170 has the same boat I do; so the dimensions would be the same. Ours is a funny shape, alot of tanks look similar but most are either too wide; too tall; or both.

For this reason some times you have to stay with aluminum, I'll check today.

 

[Rob B]

MKH
This is what the gas tank looks like that Old Hickory and myself have. The dimensions are 10" high 22" wide and 60" long. The sides of the gas tank are 5". Those dimensions are max we can have. Here's a picture:

 

[Old Hickory]

MKH
This is what the gas tank looks like that Old Hickory and myself have. The dimensions are 10" high 22" wide and 60" long. The sides of the gas tank are 5". Those dimensions are max we can have. Here's a picture:

Thanks Robbie I couldn't find a pic of the entire gas tank. Yours looks rough but appears that it cleaned up nice. I started on the top of the tank today and the pitting goes almost thru the full thickness of the aluminum in some places....it's a mess.

 

[Rob B]

Rod You're Welcome!!!! I used sos pads and aluminum wheeler cleaner to clean the tank. I didn't have all the pitting your tank has, mine was on the top where the PO added 2x4's across the top to support the floor. I'm looking for the picture I took of the pitting.