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1970 Checkmate MX-14
- Thread starter starviper10
- Start date
starviper10
Active member
Ok so finally an update. Seems like forever since I've done anything with it. So now that all the AP Exams, SATs, ACTs, and finals are over with, I can make some actual progress. I took my last final yesterday and and was free to start working the boat. I was messing around with the transom a few months ago and realized that someone cut a chunk out of it and tried to screw a piece back in place. It's actually not rotten in the middle. But still I'm replacing the transom. I got the rub rail off yesterday and drilled out the other rivets holding the hull and deck together. Whats the best way to get rid of the rock hard glue holding the deck on?
I built this rear cradle set up for the steps a few months ago. Will the hull bend out when the deck comes off? I was thinking that I should make another for the front and connect it with bunks to keep the hull from deforming when the transom and deck come out.
I built this rear cradle set up for the steps a few months ago. Will the hull bend out when the deck comes off? I was thinking that I should make another for the front and connect it with bunks to keep the hull from deforming when the transom and deck come out.
starviper10
Active member
And on the engine side I made some progress over the last month or so. I pulled both lower units off and took them to an expert around here. One worked fine and the other wouldn't shift. I was hoping he could rebuild one using both. He took them both apart and turns out none of the parts are transferable. Good news though with one that wouldn't shift. The problem was just that the shift rod was not set properly and the clutch dog works perfectly. But after looking at short shafts it finally got to me. So I'm going to convert my 100 hp to a short shaft.
The Merc guy has a few shortshaft midsections laying around. He also has a short shaft in perfect condition that I'm hoping he won't ask a fortune for. But he said I need to pull both midsections off to see if any of his will match. Evidently they changed the midsection and/or the adapter plate every 6 months. So I took both engines apart down to just powerheads and midsections by myself. But I needed some help to get the powerheads off. We got them off and I took them up to the Merc guy on Thursday. The engines have different adapter plates. I should get a response back pretty soon on whether he has any that will match.
The Merc guy has a few shortshaft midsections laying around. He also has a short shaft in perfect condition that I'm hoping he won't ask a fortune for. But he said I need to pull both midsections off to see if any of his will match. Evidently they changed the midsection and/or the adapter plate every 6 months. So I took both engines apart down to just powerheads and midsections by myself. But I needed some help to get the powerheads off. We got them off and I took them up to the Merc guy on Thursday. The engines have different adapter plates. I should get a response back pretty soon on whether he has any that will match.
starviper10
Active member
I also got a set of checkmate trim tabs. $70 shipped. One has a corner cracked off. There's a hairline crack on the other one too. But my dad knows a an aluminum expert that can fix it. Do you guys just buy new tie rods? Mine are not rusty but they are a pain to try to get apart.
I had to see what they would look like so I zip tied them to a piece of wood.
Here's the crack
I had to see what they would look like so I zip tied them to a piece of wood.
Here's the crack
starviper10
Active member
Well I got some more work done. A few weeks ago I got the deck separated. This past weekend my dad and I started to cut the transom out. Today I got it all apart. I still have to cut all the edges cleaner and sand what looks to be the factory glue on the transom. I have to say that transom is deceiving. I took one of the motors back to my house on it and it didn't move at all. And now it's clearly rotten.
I think someone used seacast on the transom at some point. It looks like cement.
But I found that a railroad tie and a mini sledge hammer works pretty well to take any cement like thing off.
Anyway my plan is to get all the fiberglass work done in the next month or two and get the deck back on. Is there anything I should do differently with rebuilding the transom than just copying what Checkmate did out of the factory? I know I want the cross member and I'd like to add knee braces.
The wood in the dash is a bit rotten around the gauges so I'd like to replace it. I think I'm also going to replace the stringers under the front of the deck with taller ones. I noticed that Will's V-Mate has thinner, but taller stringers and mine are wider than they are tall. Should you be able to kneel on the front deck?? Because when I did it bent down a little so I'd like to make it stronger.
I think someone used seacast on the transom at some point. It looks like cement.
But I found that a railroad tie and a mini sledge hammer works pretty well to take any cement like thing off.
Anyway my plan is to get all the fiberglass work done in the next month or two and get the deck back on. Is there anything I should do differently with rebuilding the transom than just copying what Checkmate did out of the factory? I know I want the cross member and I'd like to add knee braces.
The wood in the dash is a bit rotten around the gauges so I'd like to replace it. I think I'm also going to replace the stringers under the front of the deck with taller ones. I noticed that Will's V-Mate has thinner, but taller stringers and mine are wider than they are tall. Should you be able to kneel on the front deck?? Because when I did it bent down a little so I'd like to make it stronger.
eagle-lake
New member
I have a 1970 MX 14 that I have owned since new and run a long shaft but have it raised up about 3.5 inches - runs 52 mph (with aluminium prop) and is an OK ski boat as well. It is only a 4 cyl though.
I will probably need to do the transom soon as water has penetrated from around the drain plug - so watching this thread with interest! Thanks.
I will probably need to do the transom soon as water has penetrated from around the drain plug - so watching this thread with interest! Thanks.
starviper10
Active member
It's always great to see another old checkmate! I haven't seen too many MX-14s either. There seem to be more MX-15s. I would suggest looking at Redstrat's and Will30's restorations if you want to see great examples of restorations. My dad and I have never restored a boat like this so it might not be the right way to do it. And I'm certainly not breaking any records in terms of time. I've had this boat for a little over a year now, as I bought it last year over Labor Day weekend. I was hoping to be a lot further along.
But I did get the transom cleaned up a bit more. I used the grinder and got all that old glue off. Defiantly a dusty job! I counted about 60 holes in the transom. The aluminum plate on the transom had a lot of little screws. I still have to go a little bit further down but the transom is almost ready.
But I did get the transom cleaned up a bit more. I used the grinder and got all that old glue off. Defiantly a dusty job! I counted about 60 holes in the transom. The aluminum plate on the transom had a lot of little screws. I still have to go a little bit further down but the transom is almost ready.
starviper10
Active member
My lower unit finally arrived last week! For the last 6 months or so I have been trying to figure out if I should rebuild the original unit or find a new one. I've been on Scream and Fly a lot, as there are some very knowledgeable merc guys on there. I learned I could put any inline mercury lower unit from 1967 until around 1987 on my engine. They all had the same mounting pattern and all the drive shafts had the same spline. From 67-69 the shafts were all steel. From 1970 to around 73/74 they were stainless only around the impeller seal areas. From around 73/74 to 87 the shafts were all stainless, and some of the later model cases had a swept back skeg, and I believe a different prop shaft spline count. I wanted a reliable unit (SS shaft) but with a little more performance and the stock look (straight rear skeg) So I found this one, and it's perfect, in my opinion at least.
It's a 1500XS lower unit with a 15" (short shaft) full stainless steel shaft, 2:1 gear ratio, factory low water pick ups, same prop shaft spline count, and straight rear edge on the skeg. It's a pretty rare lower unit, as the 1500XS is a rare engine. It has also been rebuilt with new seals all around, and all the internals checked and in great condition. I got it for half of what the local merc guy would rip me off for rebuilding my original unit. I think it will work very well.
It's a 1500XS lower unit with a 15" (short shaft) full stainless steel shaft, 2:1 gear ratio, factory low water pick ups, same prop shaft spline count, and straight rear edge on the skeg. It's a pretty rare lower unit, as the 1500XS is a rare engine. It has also been rebuilt with new seals all around, and all the internals checked and in great condition. I got it for half of what the local merc guy would rip me off for rebuilding my original unit. I think it will work very well.
starviper10
Active member
Well I have to say patience is definitely a virtue and is very rewarding. I finally found a short 15" short shaft mid section at the end of June. I was looking for one since this past winter. They are very hard to come by, and are usually very expensive. To make it worse, there are many different variations. Even my two long shaft mids, which are only a year apart, have different stud lengths and water intake cavity shapes on the adapter plate. So the mid sections are different.
But long story short I found this guy through his brother on craigslist. Turns out he has tons of old mercury parts out in Virginia, and is a mercury genius on screamandfly.com. He just happened to have a mid section that has the correct stud length and water cavity shape for the power head that I want to use. And to make it even better, he only wanted $100 plus shipping for it because he doesn't need it and he likes that a teenager is interested in these old mercs. So because of this, I've been trying to be very patient with him, as he also knows it's a great deal. He told me it was going to take awhile for him to dig it out, package it and get it shipped. Turns out that was 3 months, but hey it's here and I really haven't needed it, as the boat isn't ready. I'm loving the short look on the back of the checkmate.
But long story short I found this guy through his brother on craigslist. Turns out he has tons of old mercury parts out in Virginia, and is a mercury genius on screamandfly.com. He just happened to have a mid section that has the correct stud length and water cavity shape for the power head that I want to use. And to make it even better, he only wanted $100 plus shipping for it because he doesn't need it and he likes that a teenager is interested in these old mercs. So because of this, I've been trying to be very patient with him, as he also knows it's a great deal. He told me it was going to take awhile for him to dig it out, package it and get it shipped. Turns out that was 3 months, but hey it's here and I really haven't needed it, as the boat isn't ready. I'm loving the short look on the back of the checkmate.
Slick
Active member
It took me 3 years to finish my MX-16. In the end it's about the quality of the work, not how fast you get it done. Looks like your doing your homework and doing it right.
After 9 whirlwind months (starting in Fall 2010) I thought I had mine ready for Spring 2011. Boy was I wrong...it took 3 more years, much bulging of forehead, beers, moral support, throwing a choke solenoid in anger 50 yards, 2 girlfriends, and some encouragement from Viper and this forum to finally get things done.
Well, about 95%. Still need those Trim Tabs.
Starviper your boat looks great and these restoration threads read like books. Good luck to you and you'll get there
. And I'm sure you'll get there faster!starviper10
Active member
Ok I've got another update here. Yesterday I continued cutting away the rest of the transom. And I also cut apart the bulkhead. Was I wrong to expect flotation foam in the bulkhead? I did find a few sheet metal pieces. Somebody tried to tie the floor to the transom with some metal spanning the gap. And then they just out fiberglass over it.
This bag was stuck half way under the floor when I pulled out the bulkhead.
This bag was stuck half way under the floor when I pulled out the bulkhead.
starviper10
Active member
Unfortunately I haven't finished it yet, as college has taken priority lately. Since the last post I've ripped the floor and the stringer out. Engine is ripped apart and I've started prepping it for paint. I've gathered enough parts to complete a dual opposed ride guide steering system and power trim system. Recently, I found a Mercury 1000 BP 15" mid section that I think I might use.
The glass work is by far the biggest hurtle in this project. I worked at a local marina over the summer that happens to be the only place in the area that does fiberglass, gel coat, and paint work. After doing some glass work, I realized that I'm not set up and skilled enough to take on this project myself. After discussing this with my boss, he offered to leave a bay open over my 4 week winter break that I can put my boat in, and teach me how to put repair it. The idea is that I follow what he says to do, learning and doing a lot of the work myself. He's done a lot of structural repairs, and this will be a great opportunity for me to learn from. My main goal throughout this restoration is that I do as much of the work as possible.
Hopefully, I will have most, if not all, of the structural repairs done this winter break, so that over the summer I can start putting this boat back together.
The glass work is by far the biggest hurtle in this project. I worked at a local marina over the summer that happens to be the only place in the area that does fiberglass, gel coat, and paint work. After doing some glass work, I realized that I'm not set up and skilled enough to take on this project myself. After discussing this with my boss, he offered to leave a bay open over my 4 week winter break that I can put my boat in, and teach me how to put repair it. The idea is that I follow what he says to do, learning and doing a lot of the work myself. He's done a lot of structural repairs, and this will be a great opportunity for me to learn from. My main goal throughout this restoration is that I do as much of the work as possible.
Hopefully, I will have most, if not all, of the structural repairs done this winter break, so that over the summer I can start putting this boat back together.
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starviper10
Active member
Whoever worked on this boat before me continues to blow my mind. First, they cut a 2" drop in the transom, which required cutting two giant holes in the splashwell so that the transom clamps could go through, and attempted to fix it by adding a 2" block under the transom plate. Second, they had sheet metal bent at right angles connecting the transom to the floor between layers of fiberglass. Third, the glass job holding the floor down was so bad that I could simply slide a crowbar under it and pry it off. Fourth, the stringer was glassed down so poorly that rusted screws through the floor were stronger, meaning that when I pulled the floor up the stringer came with it. Fifth, the stringer consisted of 2 pieces connected via a metal strip and screws.
I guess one plus is that I never had to cut anything to get the floor and stringer out.
A lot of 5200.
2 piece floor and stringer
Merc 1000 BP mid section
I guess one plus is that I never had to cut anything to get the floor and stringer out.
A lot of 5200.
2 piece floor and stringer
Merc 1000 BP mid section
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starviper10
Active member
Well I finally started work on the structural rebuild. I have a nice 4 week winter break, and spent the first 2 weeks working at the marina. After getting a few boats finished up there was room for me to put my checkmate in. I started work on it Wednesday of last week (1/4). I'm going back to school this weekend so today (Friday 1/13) was the last day. The transom, crossmember, stringer, floor & knee braces are all in & sealed. Still have some cleaning up to do in some areas but I'm very happy with the progress. I still need to finalize my plans for the bulkhead up in the bow, but I'm hoping I can get that finished over spring break along with some splashwell repairs.
Anyway I want to thank you guys for the help. I'm always looking at the other restoration threads for reference & motivation. Pictures to follow...
Anyway I want to thank you guys for the help. I'm always looking at the other restoration threads for reference & motivation. Pictures to follow...
starviper10
Active member
So the first install was the transom. I used 2 sheets of ¾” marine plywood (used marine plywood for everything) with glass between & on both faces, and resin around the edges. Used screws to sandwich the middle layer. The crossmember was also made of 2 ¾” pieces, glassed between (screwed) & on both faces, resin around edges, just like the transom That was then screwed to the transom with a layer of glass between, and pieces tabbing the two together above and below. I used some resin jelly to fill the gap between the transom & the hull before the final install. The transom went in for the final time with 2 layers of glass in between, clamped & screwed in from behind through some 2x4s and a 2x6. I tabbed it to the hull later.
starviper10
Active member
The next step was the stringer, using the same system as the transom with 2 ¾” pieces glassed & screwed. That then went in with 2 layers of glass between it & the hull, followed by 2 sets of tabbing pieces that overlapped each other.
