85 looper and a few problems

[Combat Rock]

I have a 85 evinrude 140hp v-4 looper
and i had a very irratating weekend

I had it out for a while and it was running perfectly
(well sort of) and I turn it off and float for a bit
and when i go to turn it back on after about 10-20 minutes
later and IT would NoT START!
I kept tryin it thinking it flooded out or something
and my battery got lower and lower
to the point where it wouldnt even turn over
I get towed in and thinking i just had a low battery (wich is almost new)
I charge it up and try it again in the morning
and it did the same thing would Not start
but the battery was all charged up, so i get towed in again


it has a few quirks,
the tach bounces around alot
sometimes it wont work at all, if i put it in nuetral it will come back on again
and then im good for a while
and if it starts acting up under power usualy around 4000 rpm
ill play with the trim or accs. and it will come back on again

the other thing is when i really open her up
sometimes it will cut out briefly for a split second then come back on again
it seems to do the more and more frequently
i thought it was a bad fuel filter so i changed it.
but that did not fix it.


so
it sometimes doesnt restart after being run for a while

it fouls out at low rpm

the tach is acting wacky (newer gauge)

it doesnt seem to recharge correctly

and it cuts out at high rpm.



i think its all related, my money is on something electronic
i know a bad rectifier can cause the tach problem does it have anything
to do with the other stuff????


any help Much appreciated.

 

[daren34]

check all the elec conections
omc used little tiny pins to run everything

they corode and break

good luck finding your grimlin

what kind of oil are you using

the 2 140's i had you had to use johnson or mercury oil or they would foul the plugs

i used texaco oil once and made it across the lake but had to get towed back to the ramp

daren

 

[Combat Rock]

check all the elec conections
omc used little tiny pins to run everything

they corode and break

good luck finding your grimlin

what kind of oil are you using

the 2 140's i had you had to use johnson or mercury oil or they would foul the plugs

i used texaco oil once and made it across the lake but had to get towed back to the ramp

daren

Im running Penzoil synthetic blend it runs the same as the johnson oil i have,
looks the same too.

i think i have a bad thermostat and thats why its probably fouling out and running rough @ low rpm.

Its the Not starting that Im really trying to fugure out

 

[Boston Predictor]

The rectifier will also effect your power trim.

I would first check and see if your getting a nice strong blue spark on all 4. It could have a weak spark...

Also check your guage wires and any wires that could be getting grounded

 

[daren34]

almost sounds like the big plug at the motor is loose
or coroded its the big red plug inside the cowl

dows it turn over with no spark or not turn over like a dead battery

could just be a bad power pack
if it is replace both of them at the same time

daren

get a manual for your year motor and a good elec tester

takes about an hour to go though all of the tests to determin witch part has failed

if it is an intermiten failure it will take longer to find

you need a spark tester that you can hook up all 4 plugs to at the same time

but you can work around it if you have help

good luck

 

[Combat Rock]

thats a good point
I never did check that big ole plug back their
Im pickin up a repair manual for it today


also does anybody know anything about the red switch on
the primer selenoid, i just figured out what it was today
and am curious about what it does.????


Im sorta glad that all this happenend at the end of the season
im gonna really tear into it in a week or 2
i think my upper motor mount is broke so why not put some boysen reeds in their while im at it.

 

[Big Dave]

don't forget to rejet for the boysens or you will burn up a cyl

 

[roadkill636]

sounds like low battery voltage ,,,,stick a multi-meter directly on the battery and run it "on the water at opperating speed" volts should be 14.4-14.9
dont just rely on a "new battery"

 

[winder]

Do a read out on the stator. If after its warm do you loose a cyclinder or two? We had a gremlin in an 87 140 after getting ready to set it on fire we replaced the stator that read ok cool and it fixed the problem. Rick

 

[Wide Open]

Bad regulator/rectifier....I'll just about guarantee it! Seen these symptoms a hundred times. The tack is linked to it and that's the side that usually goes first, then the charging side follows. If you've got a bad t-stat that's making it run hot, that could be part of the reason the regulator went south. It sits in the top of the block at the back between the heads and is water cooled. If the water's hot, so's the regulator. Not to mention, if you've got a bad water pump that could affect it too. If the t-stat is sticking open causing the engine to run cold, that's bad too. It's got to run at the right temp to perform properly and to burn the fuel AND oil. Oil will do weird stuff if it's not burnt at the proper temperature. And the results are not good.
Read my words closely here...RUN JOHNSON/EVINRUDE XD-30 or XD-50 OIL period. Aftermarket 2-stroke oils don't cut it! They don't lubricate properly, and just by chance they do, they burn differently and generally cause "coking" of the rings and cumbustion chamber. The make the rings stick, and before long, guess what? Rebuild time! Spend a little extra for the right stuff and you'll be glad you did. The engine manufacturers put their name on the container for a reason.....they want to protect your engine so you come back and buy another one some day. The other guys are interested in selling oil. End of story!

 

[winder]

Wideopen I ran premium plus merc oil in my 110 xflow for seven brutal years without a bit of problems. Most of the rpms above 6k. When it finally got tired I pulled the heads and all looked good. I am not familar with bomb oils but mercury oil seems as good and goes on sale quite often at bass pro. Rick

 

[Wide Open]

The merc stuff is fine too....I should have mentioned that. As long as it's got an outboard manufacturers name on the side. I'd run merc, yamalube, whatever. But you'll never find me putting substandard discount store oil in my tank.
Hope I didn't offend you. That certainly wasn't the intention.

 

[Costa]

Bad regulator/rectifier....I'll just about guarantee it! Seen these symptoms a hundred times. The tack is linked to it and that's the side that usually goes first, then the charging side follows. If you've got a bad t-stat that's making it run hot, that could be part of the reason the regulator went south. It sits in the top of the block at the back between the heads and is water cooled. If the water's hot, so's the regulator. Not to mention, if you've got a bad water pump that could affect it too. If the t-stat is sticking open causing the engine to run cold, that's bad too. It's got to run at the right temp to perform properly and to burn the fuel AND oil. Oil will do weird stuff if it's not burnt at the proper temperature. And the results are not good.
Read my words closely here...RUN JOHNSON/EVINRUDE XD-30 or XD-50 OIL period. Aftermarket 2-stroke oils don't cut it! They don't lubricate properly, and just by chance they do, they burn differently and generally cause "coking" of the rings and cumbustion chamber. The make the rings stick, and before long, guess what? Rebuild time! Spend a little extra for the right stuff and you'll be glad you did. The engine manufacturers put their name on the container for a reason.....they want to protect your engine so you come back and buy another one some day. The other guys are interested in selling oil. End of story!

Damn, Couldnt have said it better myself!!!
As soon as you start talking about a goofy acting Tach you know its the rec/reg.

 

[83PREDICTOR]

I had very simular things happening with my 92 115 Johnson minus the dead battery part and a reg/rec fixed it.

 

[Combat Rock]

Well I have fixed most of the problems

the hard restarting/smoking was fixed with a new set of boysen power reeds
and the rectifier and power pack have been replaced.
new fuel pump

it still cuts out at wot
I think it might be the in-tank fuel filter
but i have yet to pull that out.
I cant wait to get rid of the last few remaining gremlins.

 

[83PREDICTOR]

There is a mesh screen in the pick-up tube in your fuel tank. You may want to check that out.

 

[Combat Rock]

There is a mesh screen in the pick-up tube in your fuel tank. You may want to check that out.

thats what im hoping is the culprit
i think ill just remove it as i have an inline filter anyways
last year i dumped the tank out and their was some garbage floatin around in their.

 

[83PREDICTOR]

I removed the screen in the tank and the filter on the engine. Now I just run a in-line filter on the fuel line and change it about every 50 gallons.

 

[Wide Open]

I'm no "Super Tech", butI practically cut my teeth on those little V-4's. Actually all the OMC stuff, is pretty damn simple. But every once in awhile you'll get that special one that just doesn't want to be fixed.

 

[Combat Rock]

Ok!!!

as of 8:30 last night
my engine is officially fully operational

I have been through everything
and i found that the checkvalves were stuck wide open
not allowing my crankcase to build enough pressure to operate the fuel pump
properly.

I was looking at my fuel filter and noticed that it was almost empty
when it was running, and that was the big tip.
So i got the valves all fixed and new hose installed
and Everything is working sooo sweet
I almost cut the motor loose a few times.

thanks for your help everybody.

Have a great weekend!!!!