Adding full hydraulic steering to the 303

[diesel30]

Getting ready in the next week or two to buy a full hydraulic steering kit for the 303 to help eliminate some serious chine walking around 73-75mph. Have been looking @ the Mayfair pits from CP performance. Prepared to spend around $3800. I like this kit since it looks like the rams mount between the drives. Does anyone have any thoughts on this kit or does anyone know of a better one for around the same $$$?

 

[Gimme Fuel]

Hardin is about the cheapest kit there is and comes complete. Only thing I hear is usually the hoses to the helm are too short. Any good hydraulic shop can make new ones.Imco is slightly more but sells the hose kits separately so it gets spendy. Zeigler is the most expensive but from what I hear is a very complete kit and most simplified install.

I just picked up a Hardin Single Ram Add-On kit myself that I will be installing shortly. You are doing it right with the full dual hyd. system. Ive driven a Cmate with it, control is awesome!

 

[lynchmob]

I just picked up a Hardin Single Ram Add-On kit myself that I will be installing shortly. You are doing it right with the full dual hyd. system. Ive driven a Cmate with it, control is awesome!

Thinking about adding the same thing
Post some pics. I would like to see how it turns out

 

[Gimme Fuel]

Thinking about adding the same thing
Post some pics. I would like to see how it turns out

This is what I picked up. Single Ram Add-On Mayfair kit with Brazil Valve. I was going to go dual add-on but the government decided they wanted to keep more of my money this year so this is what I could afford at the moment and it was a decent deal and was local to me and should be a huge improvement over no external steering like now. The hard part will be measuring 18 times and getting the nerve up to cut more holes in a perfectly good transom. I will keep posted when I get to it.

 

[RNGRDVE]

That's similar to what's on my 253 only mine is Latham.

 

[diesel30]

after I drove my buddy's scarab 33 avs @ the cumberland poker run last year I was sold on the feel and control of the full hydraulic system. Especially if I plan on adding heads and cams and ecu re-flashes next year.

 

[sclemons]

I had full hydraulic on my previous mate and loved it. I never really looked at the whole set-up but I wish I had because now I want to upgrade my current mate from internal power assist to external power steering. I know full hydraulic includes plumbing all the way to the helm but how does the add on kit work? can an add on kit be converted to full hydraulic by just adding the helm control or are they totally different animals?

 

[RNGRDVE]

I was told I can go full if I add lines and helm. I will do that plus a second cylinder in a couple years.

 

[ezstriper]

the system from CP is nice, but I would get without the hoses, have them made by a Hyd hose place with pressed on fittings, also if the 303 dash is anything like my 253 it's a royal pain, had to do glass work behind to get flat area, also had to have a longer hub made to get it to work correctly, work super now, lots of work and $$$$ anybody wants info feel free to contact me on installation...Rob

 

[hadleycat]

I had full hydraulic on my previous mate and loved it. I never really looked at the whole set-up but I wish I had because now I want to upgrade my current mate from internal power assist to external power steering. I know full hydraulic includes plumbing all the way to the helm but how does the add on kit work? can an add on kit be converted to full hydraulic by just adding the helm control or are they totally different animals?

The add on external kit can be converted to full hydraulic to helm fairly easy. You can buy the Mayfair kit from Cp Performance for about $1200. It includes a Char Lynn helm, steering post, hydraulic lines, and filter. They are the same animal.

 

[sclemons]

I have been trying to find a schematic that shows how the add-on system will work without the helm but have not had any luck. perhaps you could explain how yours works, or even better, provide a pic or two. I'm assuming that there would be a manifold that taps into the existing internal rack to power the external piston and the internal rack is disconnected from the gimbal arm, thus allowing the cable from the helm to still be the controlling factor. am I close in my assumption?

 

[hadleycat]

I have been trying to find a schematic that shows how the add-on system will work without the helm but have not had any luck. perhaps you could explain how yours works, or even better, provide a pic or two. I'm assuming that there would be a manifold that taps into the existing internal rack to power the external piston and the internal rack is disconnected from the gimbal arm, thus allowing the cable from the helm to still be the controlling factor. am I close in my assumption?

Basically you are right but the internal rack will still stay connected to the tiller arm. I have some parts left over from my add-on system if you need anything.

 

[Gimme Fuel]

I have been trying to find a schematic that shows how the add-on system will work without the helm but have not had any luck. perhaps you could explain how yours works, or even better, provide a pic or two. I'm assuming that there would be a manifold that taps into the existing internal rack to power the external piston and the internal rack is disconnected from the gimbal arm, thus allowing the cable from the helm to still be the controlling factor. am I close in my assumption?

That is where the Brazil valve comes into play. It attaches to the internal cylinder hyd system and provides the pressure and return ports for your external add-on system.

 

[sclemons]

with that set-up does the play that may exist in the tiller arm remain after installing the add-on system. that play as well as the existing rack being loose is why I'm planning to install the add-on. and the difficulty of swapping the helm, or so I've read, is why I'm considering the add-on instead of full system. (my joints don't work so well any more and twisting under the dash doesn't appeal to me any more) but if I have to go full to get rid of the play then that's what I'll do

 

[ezstriper]

they use a modified control valve to run the lines for the outboard cylinders, couple of things, you will loose turning radius from what I've seen, will take slop out of inboard tiller arm but not from the cable(at both ends)

 

[RNGRDVE]

I have single ram assist and it doesn't seem like it's lost steering radius from other 253's I've driven. But I have never thought about it either and will probably compare this summer.

 

[hadleycat]

with that set-up does the play that may exist in the tiller arm remain after installing the add-on system. that play as well as the existing rack being loose is why I'm planning to install the add-on. and the difficulty of swapping the helm, or so I've read, is why I'm considering the add-on instead of full system. (my joints don't work so well any more and twisting under the dash doesn't appeal to me any more) but if I have to go full to get rid of the play then that's what I'll do

I am just finishing up my helm and it was fairly easy to do. I ordered the 90 degree fittings to attach the hoses to the helm which made a much nicer install. I also ran my hoses on the floor in-between the side of the boat and the 3" tall lip on the outer edge of the floor panel.
The dash thickness does vary where you mount the helm. I scribed the minimum thickness around the inside of the helm mounting hole and used a 1" forestner drill bit to mill the dash down to this thickness from the backside. Once completed my dash was an even 1" thick at the helm mounting point. I used an 8" non tilting steering post which put the wheel right back at the stock position.

 

[RNGRDVE]

If I decide to go full hydraulic down the road I may need to pick your brain on the process.

 

[ezstriper]

a longer than normal column is the key on these things and if the back of the dash is not flat(mine was not) when you tighten the 4 bolts the steering get funky

 

[diesel30]

well went with the mayfair full kit. The fit and finish of these parts are absolutely amazing. Never realized how big a steering ram is until it's off the boat. Also picked up a pair of merc 280's. Now just need some mechanical indicators and cables and then I have the 303 right where it should've been from the factory in the first place. Now just need to get everything installed. planning on re-doing the engines next winter. Any ideas what it would cost to turn some 502 mag mpi's into some 509's with a good set of dart heads?