Gelcoat Wet Sanding Advice Needed

[keith4216]

Its drying white up after the 1200 sanding.

Do i have to remove the white sanding stuff before i start with the 3M stuff?

I always wash it down after sanding and again after compounding.

 

[11YearItch]

I have now completed my efforts to restore my boats gel coat. The results are not as good as Rob's Black Pulse 170 but are a significant improvement over what I started with. My efforts consisted of the following steps.
(1) Hand wet sanded with 800 grit paper.
(2) Washed with boat soap and then rinsed.
(3) Hand wet sanded with 2000 grit paper.
(4) Washed with boat soap and then rinsed.
(5) Power buffered using a wool pad and 3M's 05954 Super Duty Rubbing Compound.
(6) Power polished using a foam pad and 3M's 35928 Finesse IT-II Marine Glaze.

A before and after picture are at http://www.slickpic.com/users/ORCJWoyak/albums/Album201406042152/?wallpaper. If you look closely at the after picture you will see I was not able to completely get rid of all the white oxidation. I sanded those areas repeatedly and in a couple areas was afraid I had sanded through the clear coat because my wipe cloth turned blue. My question now is how long will the restored effort last?

 

[keith4216]

Going from 800 to 2000 was a big jump. I would have done 12-15 in between. I have found seeing some color is normal when doing the sanding. I'd go back over the deck again. I just did one worse and it came out pretty nice. Oxidation is like rust if its not all gone it will come back. You can plan on it needing to be buffed on every spring. It will be less work each time but will need to be done to keep that shine. Nice results you got and I understand the first timers fear of sanding but go at it a little more where you can still see the haze.

and the trick to it lasting is a good wax and the least sun as possibale.

Some pics,
http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29188

 

[Instigator]

Going from 800 to 2000 was a big jump. I would have done 12-15 in between. I have found seeing some color is normal when doing the sanding. I'd go back over the deck again. I just did one worse and it came out pretty nice. Oxidation is like rust if its not all gone it will come back. You can plan on it needing to be buffed on every spring. It will be less work each time but will need to be done to keep that shine. Nice results you got and I understand the first timers fear of sanding but go at it a little more where you can still see the haze.

and the trick to it lasting is a good wax and the least sun as possibale.

Some pics,
http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29188

I just read that thread.
AMAZING!

Question for you: With those products/processes used, if you wipe it down after each outing, how long before it starts to show fading? Say an all day Saturday in direct sun light and spray.
Day #1?

 

[ckaluger]

The right side of the deck was sanded 800, 1500, then 2000, buffed with Presta gel coat compound.;

again after sanding and buffing with the compound
;then

polished at around 800 RPM with wax
;

Boat before;;

Finished boat

 

[11YearItch]

Going from 800 to 2000 was a big jump. I would have done 12-15 in between. I have found seeing some color is normal when doing the sanding. I'd go back over the deck again. I just did one worse and it came out pretty nice. Oxidation is like rust if its not all gone it will come back. You can plan on it needing to be buffed on every spring. It will be less work each time but will need to be done to keep that shine. Nice results you got and I understand the first timers fear of sanding but go at it a little more where you can still see the haze.

and the trick to it lasting is a good wax and the least sun as possibale.

Some pics,
http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29188

Thanks for the input about seeing some color being normal. As for doing the deck again it won't be until next year at this time. My boat sits in the water at my dock all summer with no protection from the sun so will see how much of the oxidation comes back. I was amazed at how well the StarFlite cooler lid in your pictures turned out.

 

[RNGRDVE]

A mooring cover would be well worth the investment for you.

 

[11YearItch]

A mooring cover would be well worth the investment for you.

It would be great if I could cover the boat when it is moored at my dock. In fact I own a good cover that snaps on to the boat and works well when the boat is on a trailer. However, when the boat is moored at my dock it is tied to the dock with mooring whips that get in the way of a cover. The whips are a necessity due to the wakes created by other boats on the river. What I really need is a boat lift at my dock but that cost too many $.

 

[ckaluger]

You may already do this but try one of the many UV protection spray on waxes.

 

[11YearItch]

You may already do this but try one of the many UV protection spray on waxes.

Thanks for your suggestion of UV protection spray on wax. I have never used a spray on wax. Based on your input I did a quick Internet lookup and came up with two possibilities, (1) Marine 31 Gel Coat Spray Wax Plus and (2) 303 Aerospace Kayak Protectant. My question is can either be put on over the recent application of 3M Finesse IT-II Marine Glaze?

 

[keith4216]

yes always finish with a good wax.

 

[Instigator]

when the boat is moored at my dock it is tied to the dock with mooring whips that get in the way of a cover.

Your cover can be cheaply modified to accept the mooring whips. They do it all the time.

Your cover is the best insurance against fading.

 

[RNGRDVE]

My question is can either be put on over the recent application of 3M Finesse IT-II Marine Glaze?

yes

 

[Dan_az80]

Anybody know any of the miracle waxes/protectants that actually work better than good wax?

We get ship shape TV down here and he's always pitching something that he swears by. Problem is it only shows "just after buffed" finish that would have looked good w/water on it.

Yrs back I had a really nice, multi dark/colored Stratos cuddy that I did the whole sand/buff/polish to and it looked like new when new.
I remember having a beer on it , 1st time out on a hot summer day and you could see EVERY water spot become permanent mark once the sun dried it.
I finally gave up.

The Starliner I just bought, has some minor fading too so this all hits home for me.
i even wondered about re-clearing it. Any of you paint/body guys know if any of the clear coats has much UV protection in it??
I had a race boat cleared yrs ago and the guy screwed up and used the wrong clear coat and it was as bad as nothing at all for protection!

There is this stuff that west coast boys are using called Hot Sauce (boat bling) that seems to work well for water spots. Also, I have used a product called leverage. It's basically a spray wax, but ever since I started using it...I have had no issue with water spots. It takes about 15 minutes to spray wax the Enchanter with the stuff and I usually do it 2-3 times a season. With a black hull and deck, I have been really impressed with the it.

 

[ckaluger]

303 has been around forever I have never had any issues, but that said you may want to try a small spot. We use the stuff on everything, interior and hull.

Chuck

 

[11YearItch]

Your cover can be cheaply modified to accept the mooring whips. They do it all the time.

Your cover is the best insurance against fading.

Thanks, I plan to investigate this option further.

 

[11YearItch]

There is this stuff that west coast boys are using called Hot Sauce (boat bling) that seems to work well for water spots. Also, I have used a product called leverage. It's basically a spray wax, but ever since I started using it...I have had no issue with water spots. It takes about 15 minutes to spray wax the Enchanter with the stuff and I usually do it 2-3 times a season. With a black hull and deck, I have been really impressed with the it.

Thanks, a good input worth looking into.