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Merc black max 200 hasn't been run in 6 years

Wildman78

Active member
Hey guys. Long story short I'm getting my project skimate back soon. It's been sitting for the last 6 years and has not been run. Was never fogged and probably left with fuel in it.

What do I need to know and what tips do you have to get it running again without hurting anything. It also does not have the lower end on it as I had it off to replace the water pump impeller and it never made it back on.
 
not an engine expert, but dont wanna leave this thread totally unanswered, and i know a few things. I picked up my 1992 merc 135 blackmax in 2009 or so pretty sure it hadnt been run since 98 or so.

I think it should be ok if it was running ok last time, I'd put a new water pump in it to have fresh rubber in there, check the carbs and cylinders to make sure theyre not full of water/oil (on my merc, the carbs and cylinders were full of oil, not sure if it was intentional or had filled from the oil injection tank) I'd see if it fires, and how it runs, then run a ton of carb cleaner through it or pull them and clean them to be sure. Double check you have spark on all cylinders, probably replace spark plugs at some point.

I feel like the pain stuff not running that long is electrical failure, assuming you didnt leave salt water in it. But merc parts arent that hard to come by.

hopefully youll get more expert advice. :banana:
 
not an engine expert, but dont wanna leave this thread totally unanswered, and i know a few things. I picked up my 1992 merc 135 blackmax in 2009 or so pretty sure it hadnt been run since 98 or so.

I think it should be ok if it was running ok last time, I'd put a new water pump in it to have fresh rubber in there, check the carbs and cylinders to make sure theyre not full of water/oil (on my merc, the carbs and cylinders were full of oil, not sure if it was intentional or had filled from the oil injection tank) I'd see if it fires, and how it runs, then run a ton of carb cleaner through it or pull them and clean them to be sure. Double check you have spark on all cylinders, probably replace spark plugs at some point.

I feel like the pain stuff not running that long is electrical failure, assuming you didnt leave salt water in it. But merc parts arent that hard to come by.

hopefully youll get more expert advice. :banana:

Thanks for the reply.

Yea it was running good before it sat. I don't have oil injection on mine so it's premix only. Should I try to get some oil in the cylinders before I try and start it? How about seafoam???
 
I don't know crap but...
I think I would pull the plugs and put in a little oil rotatating the motor by hand to get each cylinder coated. Replace all normal maintance parts and see what i got. I'm surprised you haven't had 100 opinions by now. Good luck
 
I would pull the air box off and open up the throttle plates and spray fogging oil in the carbs and in the cylinders then crank it over then repeat a couple of times to make sure everything is well lubricated. Plus change water pump and lower unit oil.
 
I would pull the air box off and open up the throttle plates and spray fogging oil in the carbs and in the cylinders then crank it over then repeat a couple of times to make sure everything is well lubricated. Plus change water pump and lower unit oil.

The engine has no air box. Just carbs. Should I find an air box somewhere?
 
You should have an aluminum housing with a black plastic cover that bolts to your carbs, this is your air box that he was referring to.

My outboard had sat for several years before I ran it, I followed the same advice given here. Although like Keith mentioned, add oil to the cylinders thru the plug holes and turn it over by hand, the starter might be a little too fast for the purposes of lubricating the cylinders. Good luck!
 
My Yamaha 150 sat for 10 years, I did spray penetrating fluid generously into the cylinders before spinning it over, I removed the lower unit and found the water pump to be in new condition so I reinstalled it, water passages were clogged up with mud wasp debris so they needed reaming out, I have an oil injection system but ran a 100 to 1 ratio in the first tank just to be sure it was working and to lubricate everything up, motor runs great and even with the extra oil the plugs did not foul, i put a new set in anyways and kept the old on board as backup. Good Luck!
 
Thanks for the reply.

Yea it was running good before it sat. I don't have oil injection on mine so it's premix only. Should I try to get some oil in the cylinders before I try and start it? How about seafoam???

Oh Yeah, Seafoam, havent used it yet but I will before storage, I believe that this product will treat new fuel but would not benefit you with starting up an old fuel system, more of a preventative maintenance product, also do your best to use non ethanol fuel if at all possible, around here several stations offer non ethanol in their high octane selection.
 
I might be the odd man out on this but i would not put seafoam anywhere near my boat... One of the main ingredients in seafoam is alcohol. Something that we all try to avoid in our boat tanks... There are several other fuel system cleaners on the market that do just as good of a job without the alcohol. I use (only because i have a good source) Mercury's fuel treatment and cleaners in my boat. They work good and are formulated to be run on 2-strokes with modern fuels. Just my two cents.
 
If it were mine I wouldn't try to start it with out oiling and turning over by hand as mentioned before. Run a compression test to see what you have. With the spark plugs grounded you can see if you have ignition.If everything looked good then I'ld pull the carbs and give them a good cleaning. Fuel is lubrication on these puppies. I new impeller is a good idea as is a new fuel pump diaphragm. Good luck. :bigthumb:
 
Pull the plugs out and give a few squirts of 50/50 oil and gas into the cylinders. same thing into the crankcase through the carb throats. Turn it over a few times by and. Do it again. Fire it up. If it runs... great. If it doesnt your carbs are gummed up and need to be cleaned.

I'll show you who the odd man out is here. I LIKE ethanol/gas blends. Keeps the water from stratifying that gets into the tank from the vents ( these are boats ) . I cant go out on the water without burning up a full tank so storing the stuff isnt an issue. Winter storage it gets non ethanol full to the brim. Otherwise I drive by the non ethanol stations to get to the 93 octane 10% ethanol pumps.
 
I would pull the carbs and completely clean them and replace any dry rot on rubber hoses, gaskets, etc

as excited as you are to get it running, it is too easy for something to go wrong, a clogged line, or a piece of rubber that flaked off and next thing you know, you lean it out and burn a cylinder. take your time do it in a methodical manner, and do it right
 
When you get the engine back into your possession, remove flywheel cover and see if you can move flywheel by hand. If you can move flywheel by hand, smile and say a good word. If flywheel wont turn, do not force it. Report back here. Remove brass plugs from each side of float bowls on carbs and see what comes out. If green or brown goo comes out, say a bad word but first look around to make sure that significant other (or young ones) is not standing within earshot. You will now be removing carbs and cleaning them, the fuel lines, the fuel pump, and take a good look in the tank too. Remember too that thrown tools will scuff up fiberglass, so be careful which way they are hurtled through the air. If nothing or something that smells like gas dribbles out, slowly smile and rub palms together. If motor turned in previous step then remove spark plugs and spray fogging type oil or 3in1 or wd 40 into cylinders. Spray some through the carbs and spin her over by hand with the plugs out. It should spin free. If it does, clench teeth together and say 'Heh heh heh. If it does not spin free, report back here. Install new impellor properly and put lower unit back into place, first checking that it will go into neutral, forward, and reverse (reverse is somewhat over rated until you get really close to the beach or dock). Engine should not be run above a couple of thousand rpm without air box/attenuator in place unless carbs have been jetted to run without box in place. Remove battery from significant others automobile and not your truck. Install it (the battery) in or around the boat and spray some premix into the carbs. Go for start after first checking for spark and then making sure that you can make the spark stop (actually turn motor back off, quickly, if necessary). Don't forget the water hose. If there is no spark, use serious bad word or hopefully a whole phrase, with the volume level turned up, first checking on whereabouts of children or significant other. Report back here. Otherwise, fresh fuel in the tank is a must have. If she lights right up, do the Walter Huston Dance, right there in the driveway, and by all means show the significant other the results of your mechanical prowess. Pass go, and hear choir sing in background. If sky above is blue and trailer tires have air in them, consider sea trails, but first check output of charging system. If charging system is not working, postpone sea trials and report back here. If she is charging, walk to front of vessel and see if license tabs are current. This will help keep Johnny Law from becoming acquainted with you. If oil, water, and fuel are all staying where they're supposed to be, grab up a personal floatation device, a couple of oars (don't ask, just do it), some rope for mooring (or towing, again, don't ask), and let the fun begin. Now, if for any reason, you suspect the vessels integrity may be lacking in the stern area, buy a rope strong and long enough to recover motor from bottom of body of water that you are going to perform sea trials in. A float tied to opposite end of rope from motor will help find motor should something bad happen. Stay near to dock for first trips to keep possible rowing times to a minimum. If things go really good, remember 1/3 out, 1/3 back, and 1/3 in reserve for the fuel. Enjoy. If bad things happen, report back. I do not recommend taking the significant other along until the vessel is "Turn Key" and without significant drama. Taking a good friend along should be second nature especially if 'hard times' are encountered. If good friend has a functioning boat, it might come in handy. A poorly functioning friend or friends boat may complicate matters though so use discretion.
 
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When you get the engine back into your possession, remove flywheel cover and see if you can move flywheel by hand. If you can move flywheel by hand, smile and say a good word. If flywheel wont turn, do not force it. Report back here. Remove brass plugs from each side of float bowls on carbs and see what comes out. If green or brown goo comes out, say a bad word but first look around to make sure that significant other (or young ones) is not standing within earshot. You will now be removing carbs and cleaning them, the fuel lines, the fuel pump, and take a good look in the tank too. Remember too that thrown tools will scuff up fiberglass, so be careful which way they are hurtled through the air. If nothing or something that smells like gas dribbles out, slowly smile and rub palms together. If motor turned in previous step then remove spark plugs and spray fogging type oil or 3in1 or wd 40 into cylinders. Spray some through the carbs and spin her over by hand with the plugs out. It should spin free. If it does, clench teeth together and say 'Heh heh heh. If it does not spin free, report back here. Install new impellor properly and put lower unit back into place, first checking that it will go into neutral, forward, and reverse (reverse is somewhat over rated until you get really close to the beach or dock). Engine should not be run above a couple of thousand rpm without air box/attenuator in place unless carbs have been jetted to run without box in place. Remove battery from significant others automobile and not your truck. Install it (the battery) in or around the boat and spray some premix into the carbs. Go for start after first checking for spark and then making sure that you can make the spark stop (actually turn motor back off, quickly, if necessary). Don't forget the water hose. If there is no spark, use serious bad word or hopefully a whole phrase, with the volume level turned up, first checking on whereabouts of children or significant other. Report back here. Otherwise, fresh fuel in the tank is a must have. If she lights right up, do the Walter Huston Dance, right there in the driveway, and by all means show the significant other the results of your mechanical prowess. Pass go, and hear choir sing in background. If sky above is blue and trailer tires have air in them, consider sea trails, but first check output of charging system. If charging system is not working, postpone sea trials and report back here. If she is charging, walk to front of vessel and see if license tabs are current. This will help keep Johnny Law from becoming acquainted with you. If oil, water, and fuel are all staying where they're supposed to be, grab up a personal floatation device, a couple of oars (don't ask, just do it), some rope for mooring (or towing, again, don't ask), and let the fun begin. Now, if for any reason, you suspect the vessels integrity may be lacking in the stern area, buy a rope strong and long enough to recover motor from bottom of body of water that you are going to perform sea trials in. A float tied to opposite end of rope from motor will help find motor should something bad happen. Stay near to dock for first trips to keep possible rowing times to a minimum. If things go really good, remember 1/3 out, 1/3 back, and 1/3 in reserve for the fuel. Enjoy. If bad things happen, report back. I do not recommend taking the significant other along until the vessel is "Turn Key" and without significant drama. Taking a good friend along should be second nature especially if 'hard times' are encountered. If good friend has a functioning boat, it might come in handy. A poorly functioning friend or friends boat may complicate matters though so use discretion.


I have a feeling it was set up to run without the air box. When I originally bought the boat in early 2000's the box was missing, An electric fuel pump has been installed and the engine has been permanently jacked up off the transom with a piece of wood.

I'll be sure to look into it though. As long as it turns over for now i'll lube it up and let it be. Gotta get the structure done 1st. She will run if she turns over.
 
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