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Starflite Set Up and Speeds..

JUPITER PULSARE

JUPITER PULSARE

Well-known member
Ok guys..looking to learn some knowledge on my impromtu Starflite side project. This should be an interesting comparison to the Pulsares I've owned! What are you guys running for power, setup, props, speed, etc.?? My new Starflite has a Mercury Pro XB250, 6" Hydrodynamics setback bracket, Bob's 5.5" hyd. jack plate, Sea Star Pro hyd. steering, In Control shifter, foot throttle and both a Tempest Plus 26 and Trophy Plus 27. I'm anticipating speeds in the upper 70's..maybe low 80's. I won't get a chance to run the boat for a while....
 
Starliner around 71 with stock 99 250 3.0 EFI. 5.5 inch plate, standard gear case, 24 Trophy, Hot Foot, uflex hydraulic steering. Chine walks right around 68 and I need more practice countering it. Also noticed a little play in the steering piston so it obviously needs to be bled better. A Flite should run faster since it's a little lighter. Especially with an xB on it. Mine probably has 3 mph left in her with more set up work, better driving and more set back. I'd say 80 shouldn't be difficult to attain for you.

John
 
I ran 64 last summer with a merc 200 xri, 10 inches of setback, and a hydromotive 24 pitch 3 blade. I'm doing some mods right now and cutting it to 260 specs so hopefully once its back together I can make some decent speed with the trophy plus 25 I picked up. :surf:
 
This setup, 250 Pro Xs with a Torque Master gearcase running a labbed 27 Trophy, 13-1/2 inches of set back, 77 MPH, right around 6,000 RPM. I wish I could have tried a Tempest on the boat before I sold it. At the time, I had a 24 pitch Fury, but I would run out of revs in the low 70's.
IMG_0860_zps03878181.png
 
ckaluger said:
This setup, 250 Pro Xs with a Torque Master gearcase running a labbed 27 Trophy, 13-1/2 inches of set back, 77 MPH, right around 6,000 RPM. I wish I could have tried a Tempest on the boat before I sold it. At the time, I had a 24 pitch Fury, but I would run out of revs in the low 70's.
IMG_0860_zps03878181.png
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What gear ratio?
 
Just a little surprised by your question (forgive me, as I think about it I can totally get it)... . Only because
you are so in the "Big Leagues" in my estimation that I'm a little surprised to hear you ask - "how do I swing at a level pitch".
:poke:
Sorry Dude! I can dig on how Lance Armstrong would ask "How do I drift a Big Wheels? I've only steered the big guys."
If you haven't drifted a Big Wheels and you were confident enough to ask "How?"...... why not?
btw- I'm sure there's no shortage on great answers. I may even weigh in with a decent one if I have one. ( I've had a few
"small wheels").:rof: Insert levity here.

( I still want a ride on the 28 next time I'm down there. :poke:)
 
:lol::rof:

Cool boat. If they would work for me I would have that hull. They just look fast.
 
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Keep your eye on the transom. It's not nearly as strong as the Pulsare (but not many transoms are braced like a Pulsare)
 
Echo that, we laminated another brace on the inside knee braces and wrapped back onto the transom with fiberglass. in addition we added a 1/4 inch aluminum plate about the full width of the splash well and also plated the entire center section on the outside of the transom. There was a stress crack on top of the transom when I got the boat, but I decided to try this and I made it through the summer without the crack spreading. My plan was, had I kept the boat, was to replace everything, and put in a new interior, but I sold it instead.

Chuck
 
I had the same small cracks for a couple of seasons but they didn't spread. I braced my splash well with an aluminum plate too. I had the metal shop here cut me a piece of 3/16" aluminum that was the same width as the small bump on the inside of the well (any wider and it wouldn't touch the well anyway), we tossed it in the break to make it a 90* angle for more strength, and I drilled the motor bolt holes. I filled the small stress cracks with 5200 and sealed the brace using Life Seal to keep it dry under there but left the bottom open so any water that worked it's behind the brace could drain out. Oh, and I had to notch the brace for the splash well drain. If you want a picture or me to make you a blank one let me know.

John
 
atc250r said:
I had the same small cracks for a couple of seasons but they didn't spread. I braced my splash well with an aluminum plate too. I had the metal shop here cut me a piece of 3/16" aluminum that was the same width as the small bump on the inside of the well (any wider and it wouldn't touch the well anyway), we tossed it in the break to make it a 90* angle for more strength, and I drilled the motor bolt holes. I filled the small stress cracks with 5200 and sealed the brace using Life Seal to keep it dry under there but left the bottom open so any water that worked it's behind the brace could drain out. Oh, and I had to notch the brace for the splash well drain. If you want a picture or me to make you a blank one let me know.

John
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Is this the best way to brace the transom? I don't have any experience with boat hulls so I'm not really sure where to start.
 
The boat I bought had a complete deck off restoration in 2005...new floor, transom, stringers, gages, wiring, Sea Star Pro steering, Bob's Jack plate, setback bracket, stereo, etc. etc. Divinycell honeycomb coring was used to rebuild the rear seatbox, new carpeting, etc. Other than the 24 year old gelcoat being faded, she's in really good shape! The motor was purchased from Wildman for $8000!!!
 
keit29 said:
Is this the best way to brace the transom? I don't have any experience with boat hulls so I'm not really sure where to start.
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If you ever have to replace the transom, stringers and floor and want to hang a 300 back there and never worry about the strength take a look at the resto I did on my 85 Starflite. Address in my signature. I was asked if I intended to hand a pair of 300's back there.
 
What I did was basically a band and albeit a pretty thorough one. New stringers tabbed to the transom with big knees is the right way to do it (ie the way Patroni did it).
 
atc250r said:
I had the same small cracks for a couple of seasons but they didn't spread. I braced my splash well with an aluminum plate too. I had the metal shop here cut me a piece of 3/16" aluminum that was the same width as the small bump on the inside of the well (any wider and it wouldn't touch the well anyway), we tossed it in the break to make it a 90* angle for more strength, and I drilled the motor bolt holes. I filled the small stress cracks with 5200 and sealed the brace using Life Seal to keep it dry under there but left the bottom open so any water that worked it's behind the brace could drain out. Oh, and I had to notch the brace for the splash well drain. If you want a picture or me to make you a blank one let me know.

John
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Hey John. Im in the process of coming up with some ideas for my 85 flite. Any chance you can share some? PM me or il shoot one your way!
 
Interesting to see this thread come back to life! Here's a photo of my old 1990 Starflite.
 

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JUPITER PULSARE said:
Interesting to see this thread come back to life! Here's a photo of my old 1990 Starflite.
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No reason to stop the flow! Love my starflite
Cant wait for my repower
225 pro xs 2018 Torque master 2

Looking at a TR04 25 or a 27 Trophy.

My current tro4 is a 21 on a 200 xri. Prop is excellent. Hooks and drives on rails
 
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