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starflite splashwell questions

A

aaronmt

Member
My splashwell has seen better days. The transom is strong no problems there,but running 75mph accross 1-2' chop racing a 20' something foot eliminator last summer did not help the splash well one bit. My question is could I esentialy double the thickness of the splashwell buy cuting a 2" wide section from it as well as the bottoms of the coolers ans then glass and tie it in has anyone tried this? Or any other ideas it seems like everything else is solid as a rock just the spash well could use some strength. Thanks Aaron
 
Ok i will do that tommorow if not tonight theres got to be a answer, I will be going faster for sure this year so it needs to be rite.
 
transom1.jpg
transom2.jpg
transom3.jpg
transom4.jpg
transom5.jpg
transom6.jpg

The first pic is the stbd side of splashwell, 2nd is port side of splashwell, 3rd is obvious, 4th is stbd side of motor, 5th is port side of motor, and 6th is port side showing a stress crack, stbd doesn't have it.
 
The last pic is pretty common, not much to worry about but the cracks at the top of the transome could be scary. I'd pull the engine and set back bracket off to inspect underneath, I bet the outside of the transomes cracked. My freinds Starflight cracked the transome in about the same place and it was dry and strong. What are your questionable problems on the first two pics? What size V-MAX are you running?
F150GT
 
After looking at it and thinking about I will being starting with a 4by4 and building it to fit along the shelf. I will attach it from the bottom as well as the transom and glass it in. I will rip to fit the shelfs angles,back as well as the bottom. The spashwell will have to be cut 3-4 inches to thickin where the motor mounts go through. This should diperse the force of the motor to the width of the transom. It sounds like alot more work then I think it will be. I think the transome ant the spshell is about 2 1/2 inches thick i will be doubly that after its all said and done. As far as motors the one thats on there is a slightly modded 200(kottman heads) excel tunner/exhaust devider. It will be going for sale soon.The motor going in its place will be a 150 VMAX, with some ever so slight mods. Its a fully ported 225 6r5 block kottman heads, 36.2 mm bored carbs,cross cut intake manifold,polished exhaust divider,ported adapter plate, hydrotec 5252 tuner, lightened flywheel, .20 over weisco forged pistons. It has been decompuerized as well as oil injection removed. Im shooting for around 275-280 hp. Should run very strong for a 150VMAX:thumb:. I hoping to spin a 27p trophy neer 6400-6500.How mant 150 mercs have I seen pushing boats neer tripple digits, Maybe this little yammie will give a few mercs a thing or two to think about:D. Aaron
 
I might be intrested in talking when your ready to sell your 200 V-MAX. Have you thought about useing an aluminum sub structure inside the transome instead of wood, you would only need a 1/2" slot in the splashwell to slide the support up in and then could tie it to the knees and stringers. Kinda like an Allison.
F150GT
 
No i hadent till you just mentioned it. Have you seen any starflights like that yet? And can I just fiberglass over it? Do you think it would have the strength iI wouldnt be able to bond it at the bottom would that be enuff strength? Ill pm you my number give me a cll id like to pick your brain a bit sounds like that may be a way to go. Aaron
 
Those cracks are caused from the bolts being torqued down tight. Almost all Starflites have them. I doubt there is anything structurally wrong with it. You just need to keep water from seeping down into the fiberglass. I had those on mine, I just sealed them with 3M 5200 before I put the transom plates on. Hasn't given me a moments grief in the 3 years since.
 
That is a high stress area for the Starflight, but not a weak point. With the motor well and the coolers on each side, that deck was a real bastard to pull from the mold. And MANY cracked right then. Probably why they eliminated the coolers for the 2100.

The underside of the deck looks great. I don't see any problems other than your cracks in the deck. Very common with that boat, but your not going to lose the motor or anything.
 
i agree with coop

mix up some wes system epoxy use a horse needle to inject it in the cracks

you can try 5200
you can use it to mount the j-plate also

daren
 
Good luck with the mods on the trans. I think you should go with the metal brackets you could fabs some in steel or Al and then have a shop make them up in stainless or just have them powder coated. Either way can't wait to heer how the new motor runs. Hopefully I'll see you around this year. By the way thanks for the BOTM vote I was actually in the running for a little while.
 
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