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Water Pump/Impeller replacement
- Thread starter Rob B
- Start date
Kct11 i've changed one on a johnson 150 a few years old so i was curious if it's similar. i'm actually reading some of threads over on scream and fly right now.
Actually i'm not sure what the problem is, it seems to take forever for the water to come out of the pee hole. The last time i cranked the motor w/ the hose on it i'm not getting any water out of the pee hole.
Today after i installed the water temp and pressure gauge i cranked up the motor to make sure everything was working, no water coming out the pee hole.
I checked all the hoses and fittings everything checks out. I had this problem prior to the gauge installation.
Could the t-stat be bad?
kct11
Well-known member
if you do not know the history of the water pump, or it is older than 2 or 3 years old, change it! when i first got my sportfire, i ran it how i got the boat. i changed it after a few trips "just because" and was amazed how much cooler it ran and how quickly it started piss out the hole after the change.
did you see this one?
http://forums.screamandfly.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145037&highlight=water+pump
did you see this one?
http://forums.screamandfly.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145037&highlight=water+pump
good catch!!! thanks
Another reason it can take a while for the water to pee is your thermostat. Yesterday it was about 26 degrees when I fired up the 135 on the boat I just bought. Took about 5 minutes for the stat to open and flow water. I kept my hand on the heads to make sure we weren't getting too hot.
If you are unsure of the maintenance history I would change out the impeller and housing assy. There are plastic and tend to wear. You can buy the water pmp assy and it comes with the impeller, housing, ss water diverter, and all the o-rings and gaskets.
I had air coming out of the pee hole, but no water yesterday.
175,
I'm thinking i need to replace the whole assembly and be done with it. At least it happen in the winter not in the summer.
Tstat should be at the top of the hoses, top back of the motor. The water temp will also affect the Tstat opening delay. Seems like my Mercury motors take a lot longer to pee than my Johnsons.
. Seems like my Mercury motors take a lot longer to pee than my Johnson's. [/quote]
There just seems to be something wrong with that sentence.
[/quote]There just seems to be something wrong with that sentence.
groucho
Member
If you want to do it yourself then go to the Merc dealer and ask for a Water Pump Repair Kit. If he doesn't stock it then at least get the impeller , gaskets, and o-ring(s) that will more than likely either be worn or damaged during your assembly process.
Remove the gearcase. You should be able to figure out how just by looking at the manual/ and your engine. But if it's all new then it is a bit of a challenge to a first-timer. Be sure to get the right manual for your motor and the dis-assembly process is not so daunting. Mercs aren't that bad. OMC's and their shift shaft's seem to be the trickiest. Yamaha's are a piece of cake too.
After you remove the LU the water pump is housed on top of the gearcase and must be dis-assembled by taking off the nuts that hold the top of water pump housing to the base. Remove them and slide the housing up and off over the driveshaft. You'll now see your impeller. The vanes will be bent back in the clockwise positon they have been spinning in. Pull the impeller up and off...CAREFULLY as the key/pin the "locks" it to the driveshaft can easily get lost in this step. It happens.
Replace all the worn parts as required. ( It depends on how bad this pump was used and which parts you have too). When placing the pump housing back on/in to the new impeller BE SURE to have placed some lube ( gear oil, grease, dish soap) in the new housing so that the impeller does not start up and turn dry. This will prematurely age the impeller significantly. Also you will notice the blades/vanes are much larger in diameter than the housing. As you push down on the housing gently turn the driveshaft clockwise ( the way it spins) so that the impeller will rotate itself up into the housing as you slide it on top of it.
Tighten the nuts ( Torque them accordingly) and line up all the elements as necessary you slid the gearcase back on and you're done.
It's probably one of the easier do-it-yourself fixes there is. But that's up to you.
Good Luck.
Remove the gearcase. You should be able to figure out how just by looking at the manual/ and your engine. But if it's all new then it is a bit of a challenge to a first-timer. Be sure to get the right manual for your motor and the dis-assembly process is not so daunting. Mercs aren't that bad. OMC's and their shift shaft's seem to be the trickiest. Yamaha's are a piece of cake too.
After you remove the LU the water pump is housed on top of the gearcase and must be dis-assembled by taking off the nuts that hold the top of water pump housing to the base. Remove them and slide the housing up and off over the driveshaft. You'll now see your impeller. The vanes will be bent back in the clockwise positon they have been spinning in. Pull the impeller up and off...CAREFULLY as the key/pin the "locks" it to the driveshaft can easily get lost in this step. It happens.
Replace all the worn parts as required. ( It depends on how bad this pump was used and which parts you have too). When placing the pump housing back on/in to the new impeller BE SURE to have placed some lube ( gear oil, grease, dish soap) in the new housing so that the impeller does not start up and turn dry. This will prematurely age the impeller significantly. Also you will notice the blades/vanes are much larger in diameter than the housing. As you push down on the housing gently turn the driveshaft clockwise ( the way it spins) so that the impeller will rotate itself up into the housing as you slide it on top of it.
Tighten the nuts ( Torque them accordingly) and line up all the elements as necessary you slid the gearcase back on and you're done.
It's probably one of the easier do-it-yourself fixes there is. But that's up to you.
Good Luck.
Thanks for the info. After i've repaired it will the alarm go off or do i reset it? I ordered the service/repair manual today. i should have it at the end of the week or first of next week.