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winterize

I never found the easy way, but the first time is the worst time (as with most things).

They are almost as bad as an I/O. :irked:

Winterizing an OPTI is the only thing that made me miss my old school two strokes.

HD
 
Yeah...take it to the dealer. After reading the manual on my Optis I just took it in and stroked the check. BUt, I will say this, between my two boats, I have $900 bucks tied up in winterizing and storage this season. $200 apiece for the winterizing, and $250 apiece for seasonal storage. Fun is getting too damn expensive.
 
Now I feel slightly guilty. When you remove a Sport Jet from the water, the engine drains completly. The cooling system gets its supply of water from the jet pump so there is no impellor to replace. Oil change in the gearcase and stator housing is so easy Ole Jim could do it with a drink in hand, she fits in one side of a standard garage, plug in the battery tender but only use the cockpit cover so that you and the neighbors can see them be-autiful flamingo accent stripes whenever the door is open. Semi monthly test firing of the motah is recomended in my case, particularly in light of the fact that the test pilot from the broom factory lives closeby and dissapproves of the symphony that eminates from the rear of the Mate when it is running. The sun will be out again in no time....
 
If the snow is so bad I can't take it down the ramp I usually hold off for a couple of weeks. Otherwise I bundle up , put some gloves on and suck it up. 5-20 miles a week. Rain, shine or snow.
 
Maybe I'm a little old-skool, but after checking out the deal on my opti, drain all the water from the motor and lower unit; make sure there is stabil in the tank and park it in a nice place. 3-year fuel filter change and lower unit evry-other. Next year the SECOND tank of fuel, run some fuel-injector cleaner all the way through. Pump the throttle 5X before first start-up every year to reset the computer...6 yrs. later..waiting for next year...
 
I assume your main dilemma is the dreaded removal of the spark plugs, and the worst one on the bottom port side, then putting the table spoon of engine oil into the cylinders. The spark plugs just take your time, after the first time it's not so bad the next time once you know what length extensions and swivals to use. For the oil process what I came up with is a small plastic hose and a very small funnel that I can wrap my mouth around, I pour the engine oil into the funnel then blow the oil into the cylinder, after all six are done and the plugs replaced pull the tether kill and rotate the motor a couple times to coat the combustion chamber walls. Don't forget to grease the zirk on the belt tensioner. All the other comments on fuel stabalizer and lower unit grease changes are recommended also. If you think you have a water problem in the fuel you can drain the VST/water separator with the hose that is hooked up to each side of it, but if you use Quikleen and stabilzer all season this shouldn't be needed. Remeber when putting the spark plugs back in to use a piece of rubber hose on the end of the plug to get it started so you don't cross thread them.
 
nightrider21 said:
... For the oil process what I came up with is a small plastic hose and a very small funnel that I can wrap my mouth around, I pour the engine oil into the funnel then blow the oil into the cylinder, after all six are done and the plugs replaced pull the tether kill and rotate the motor a couple times to coat the combustion chamber walls. .
Click to expand...

I used a turkey baster with 3/8 fuel line zip tied to the end.

HD
 
Talked to my local marina guys... they were all for making $300 to winterize it, but said with the relative moderate winters we have to simply ensure I have changed the lower oil, drained all water out, some fuel stabil and let'r sit. It also sits in my garage all winter not outside so fogging and all that jazz isn't needed. Good 'nuff for me! It's "winterized". Would give my left nut to move to Tampa next......
 
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