Winterizing a 250 xs

[claupie]

What to do to winterize ??
Boat is stored outside,covered and in freezing tempeture..
Thanks..

 

[Vandalizer]

Build a heated garage for it???

I think you'll want to basically follow the procedure everyone else does with one difference.

Add stabilizer to your tank
*Add the equivalent of fogging oil for EFIs to your gas if it exists*
Run it long enough to make sure it gets through
Pull the plugs and fog the cylinders
Hand crank to distribute the fogging oil in the cylinders
Replace plugs
Remove L/U and store in heated area
Make sure all the water is out of the boat, and that it's wrapped up nice and tight!

 

[merc245]

Don't forget the battery,If stored outdoors I would pull it and bring it in side and have a maintance schedule of some kind.I sure your winters are Loonnngggg.

 

[Vandalizer]

Don't forget the battery,If stored outdoors I would pull it and bring it in side and have a maintance schedule of some kind.I sure your winters are Loonnngggg.

Good point!!

 

[xsive]

More bad advice from someone who means well but don't have a clue.... Not to sound like a dick, but what you are telling this guy has the potential tio ruin his $15000 motor.

This is a direct injection motor, not a "regular" motor. Do not spray fogging oil anywhere near that motor, it gums up the injectors. There is absolutely no reason to remove the lower unit. Follow what Mercury has outlined in the owners manual.

- Change gear lube
- Put fuel stabilizer in the fuel and run it to it gets into the canister of the motor.
- Leave motor upright so water drains out
- Disconnect battery. Remove if you wish, I always just leave them in the boat as they actually store better in cold temps as sulfation is reduced.

 

[Vandalizer]

You really love me, don't you?

I didn't tell him to spray fogging oil in the injectors, I know it's DI. What I said is IF Mercury makes something like fogging oil for EFIs. I don't care what kind of engine it is... when it sits somewhere in a climate that isn't controlled, you NEED a rust inhibitor. (Unless you want to ruin a $15k motor) If you only put fogging oil in the cylinders (through the plugs) it will not affect the injectors in any way... it'll blow out when you start it up in the spring.
You know when you wish you would've taken the lower off and kept it inside? When you take a look at the boat in the spring and there's a hairline crack from water that froze. Maybe that'll never happen... but why not prevent it altogether? Besides, you should probably replace the impeller anyway.

 

[claupie]

More bad advice from someone who means well but don't have a clue.... Not to sound like a dick, but what you are telling this guy has the potential tio ruin his $15000 motor.

This is a direct injection motor, not a "regular" motor. Do not spray fogging oil anywhere near that motor, it gums up the injectors. There is absolutely no reason to remove the lower unit. Follow what Mercury has outlined in the owners manual.

- Change gear lube
- Put fuel stabilizer in the fuel and run it to it gets into the canister of the motor.
- Leave motor upright so water drains out
- Disconnect battery. Remove if you wish, I always just leave them in the boat as they actually store better in cold temps as sulfation is reduced.

My gas thank is 3/4 full.How much stabilizer should i pour in ?

 

[Vandalizer]

Depends on the type you have... the Quicksilver stuff I've always used is 1oz for every gallon.

 

[xsive]

Build a heated garage for it???

I think you'll want to basically follow the procedure everyone else does with one difference.

Add stabilizer to your tank
*Add the equivalent of fogging oil for EFIs to your gas if it exists*
Run it long enough to make sure it gets through
Pull the plugs and fog the cylindersHand crank to distribute the fogging oil in the cylinders
Replace plugs
Remove L/U and store in heated area
Make sure all the water is out of the boat, and that it's wrapped up nice and tight!

You really love me, don't you?

I didn't tell him to spray fogging oil in that thing, I know it's DI. What I said is IF Mercury makes something like fogging oil for EFIs. I don't care what kind of engine it is... when it sits somewhere in climate that isn't controlled, you NEED a rust inhibitor. (Unless you want to ruin a $15k motor) If you only put fogging oil in the cylinders (through the plugs) it will not affect the injectors in any way... it'll blow out when you start it up in the spring.
You know when you wish you would've taken the lower off and kept it inside? When you take a look at the boat in the spring and there's a hairline crack from water that froze. Maybe that'll never happen... but why not prevent it altogether? Besides, you should probably replace the impeller anyway.

So I imagined the text in bold telling him to pull the plugs and fogg the cylinders? If you change the gear lube as the last thing you do gauranteeing there is no water in it it will NEVER crack. As far as replacing the impeller goes, unless you run it in very silty/sandy water, you are good for 5 years.

I love this one ..."I don't care what kind of engine it is... when it sits somewhere in climate that isn't controlled, you NEED a rust inhibitor. (Unless you want to ruin a $15k motor) If you only put fogging oil in the cylinders (through the plugs) it will not affect the injectors in any way... it'll blow out when you start it up in the spring."

FYI the injectors on a DFI, not EFI, are in the combustion chamber, so if you put fogging oil in the cylinders, it will be on the injector tips.

As far as loving you, I don't care, but what you told him is WRONG. I'm stern about it to make a point so his motor doesn't get ruined. Personally, if you don't know what you are telling someone is fact do them a favour and don't post. I'm not going to spend twenty minutes trying to make it tactful so I don't hurt your feelings.

 

[xsive]

My gas thank is 3/4 full.How much stabilizer should i pour in ?

Follow the instructions on container some are different. Usually adding more means that it will be stable for a longer period of time.

I'm not sure what gas you use or where you are, but if you are running ethanol blended fuel I'd be temped to syphon as much as possible out, but that is me, then replace it with fresh fuel in the spring.

If you want to discuss further PM me your phone number and I'll call you tonight or tomorrow.

 

[Vandalizer]

Point taken on the DI injector setup, I didn't know that. You don't need to worry about hurting my feelings.

The bottom line still remains... without some sort of rust inhibitor you are putting your engine at risk. From what I've read, Merc recommends using TC-W3 as fogging oil for the DIs.

 

[Chris E]

Hey Claupie,

Honestly, if you aren't comfortable, you can do one of two things. buy the shop manual that will tell you how to winterize the engine properly, or take the engine to your local dealership and have them do it. then if something happens, it's their problem not yours - a small price to pay for peace of mind. some of these newer motors have odd ways of storing them long term, so it may be best to let a dealer look after it (especially if there is still warranty on the motor).

 

[Vandalizer]

Another great point! I remember HD saying that he had to use a specific type of battery to comply with warranty requirements, so it would be reasonable to assume that they might require a dealer to winterize to maintain your warranty coverage.

 

[hotdaddy27]

I will speak from experience, and from the manual, and from my local tech, and without an attitude towards people trying to help one-another.

Ahhh hell it is too cold to go to the garage, but I am going to get the manual so noone jumps my chit and tells me I am wrong.


Be right back....

 

[PA-Checkmate]

Besides doing the fuel thing, my Merc 300xs only states to remove the spark plugs and add about 1oz of TCW-3 oil in each cylinder and crank over a few times. I have no proof but was told not to fog the cylinders.

 

[hotdaddy27]

Page 88-92 of Mercury Operation & Warranty Manual

Keep in mind this is for a 300XS, but it should be similar.

This is a brief synopsis considering it would take me a while to type everything:

STORAGE

• Pour required Mercury Fuel Stabilizer into tank. (Pre mix 1quart in separate container)
• Remove drain hose from bottom of fuel chamber and loosen filter (you can buy a special filter tool to fit the fingers of the red top of the filter)
• Turn Allen Head set screws for and aft separately to drain fuel chamber.
• Premix 8cc Mercury Quikleen and 8cc Mercury Fuel Stabilizer.
• Pour mixture into filter opening.
• Install New Filter
• Prime Fuel System (Squeeze Bulb)
• Start on hose and idle for 5min to circulate above additives
• PROTECTING INTERNAL COMPONENTS DURING STORAGE
• Remove Spark Plugs
• Add 30ml of engine oil into each plug hole. (but what about the injectors??)
• Rotate the flywheel several times
• Reinstall Spark Plugs
• Drain and refill L/U oil
• Store Outboard in Vertical Position to drain
• Remove Battery from boat and store in cool/dry place

I think that everyone had a valid point in one way or another.

Good luck Cluapie.

By the way, get a manual. You spent way to much money not to have this on hand.

HD
​

 

[Check This]

My gas thank is 3/4 full.How much stabilizer should i pour in ?

I put in 1 once per gallon as per instructions

Take plugs out spray SMAll amout of fogging oil in each cylinder just click the key to move the cylinders then put the plugs back in.
Make sure motor is always down!!
I f you are outside disconnect batter - I dont -- I have batter switch that cuts all power.
I cover my motor with moving blankets can not hurt.

 

[xsive]

Keep in mind this is for a 300XS, but it should be similar.

This is a brief synopsis considering it would take me a while to type everything:

STORAGE

• Pour required Mercury Fuel Stabilizer into tank. (Pre mix 1quart in separate container)
• Remove drain hose from bottom of fuel chamber and loosen filter (you can buy a special filter tool to fit the fingers of the red top of the filter)
• Turn Allen Head set screws for and aft separately to drain fuel chamber.
• Premix 8cc Mercury Quikleen and 8cc Mercury Fuel Stabilizer.
• Pour mixture into filter opening.
• Install New Filter
• Prime Fuel System (Squeeze Bulb)
• Start on hose and idle for 5min to circulate above additives
• PROTECTING INTERNAL COMPONENTS DURING STORAGE
• Remove Spark Plugs
• Add 30ml of engine oil into each plug hole. (but what about the injectors??)
• Rotate the flywheel several times
• Reinstall Spark Plugs
• Drain and refill L/U oil
• Store Outboard in Vertical Position to drain
• Remove Battery from boat and store in cool/dry place

I think that everyone had a valid point in one way or another.

Good luck Cluapie.

By the way, get a manual. You spent way to much money not to have this on hand.

HD
​

Good post,

as far as the injectors. Two cycle oil is OK, storage seal is bad. I wouldn't waste my time trying to pour oil in the spark plug holes. All that will do is coat the bottom of the cyliner above the rings and most will run out the exhaust port...It's up to you.


Here is the section on pages 1B-18, 19, 20, 21 of the factory manual I have it in pdf form so I don't have to type, copy paste done.LOL.



Storage Preparation
The major consideration in preparing your outboard for storage is to protect it from rust, corrosion, and damage caused by freezing of trapped water. The following storage procedures should be followed to prepare your outboard for out of season storage or prolonged storage (two months or longer).

CAUTION
Never start or operate your outboard (even momentarily) without water circulating through all the cooling water intake holes in the gearcase to prevent damage to the water pump (running dry) or overheating of the engine.

Fuel System
IMPORTANT: Gasoline containing alcohol (ethanol or methanol) can cause a formation of acid during storage and can damage the fuel system. If the gasoline being used contains alcohol, it is advisable to drain as much of the remaining gasoline as possible from the fuel tank, remote fuel line, and engine fuel system. The most effective method for storage preparation is to add the recommended amount of Mercury Precision Fuel Stabilizer and Mercury Precision Quickleen products as described on their containers to the fuel tank before the last operation of the boat. Adding Fuel Stabilizer will help prevent the formation of varnish and gum in the gasoline. The Mercury Precision Quickleen product will help clean and lubricate the fuel injectors.
1. Portable Fuel Tank ‑ Pour the required amount of gasoline stabilizer (follow instructions on container) into fuel tank. Tip fuel tank back and forth to mix stabilizer with the fuel.
2. Permanently Installed Fuel Tank ‑ Pour the required amount of gasoline stabilizer (follow instructions on container) into a separate container and mix with approximately one quart (one liter) of gasoline. Pour this mixture into fuel tank.
3. Pull the drain hose off the right side fitting. Hold the open end of the hose over a container. Loosen drain screw and drain the fuel filter chamber.
NOTE: If little or no liquid drains from the hose, loosen the red filter to vent the chamber.
4. Re‑tighten drain screw and re‑attach hose.
5. Pull the drain hose off the left side fitting. Hold the open end of the hose over a container and loosen drain screw and drain the float chamber. Re‑tighten drain screw and re‑attach hose.

6. Premix the following in a container:
• 8 cc (0.27 oz.) or 2 teaspoons of Mercury Precision Quickleen lubricant.
• 8 cc (0.27 oz.) or 2 teaspoons of Mercury Precision Fuel Stabilizer.
7. Remove the fuel filter. Refer to Maintenance ‑ Fuel System.
8. Pour mixture into the fuel filter opening.
9. Reinstall the fuel filter.
10. Prime the fuel system as outlined in the Operation ‑ Starting the Engine.
11. Place the outboard in water or use the flushing attachment for circulating cooling water. Start the engine and run at idle speed for 5 minutes to allow the treated fuel to fill the fuel system.

Protecting Internal Engine Components
NOTE: Make sure the fuel system has been prepared for storage. Refer to Fuel System, preceeding.
IMPORTANT: Refer to Spark Plug Inspection and Replacement for correct procedure for removing spark plug leads.
1. Remove the spark plugs and add approximately 30 ml (1 oz.) of engine oil into each spark plug hole.
2. Rotate the flywheel manually several times to distribute the oil in the cylinders.
3. Re‑install spark plugs.

Protecting External Outboard Components• Lubricate all outboard components listed in Maintenance ‑ Inspection and Maintenance
Schedule.
• Touch up any paint nicks. See your dealer for touch‑up paint.
• Spray Quicksilver or Mercury Precision Lubricants Corrosion Guard on external metal surfaces (except corrosion control anodes). Tube Ref No. Description Where Used Part No. 120 Corrosion Guard External metal surfaces 92-802878-55

Gearcase
• Drain and refill the gearcase lubricant (refer to Maintenance ‑ Gearcase Lubrication).

Positioning Outboard For StorageStore outboard in an upright (vertical) position to allow water to drain out of outboard.
CAUTION
If outboard is stored tilted up in freezing temperature, trapped cooling water or rain water
that may have entered the propeller exhaust outlet in the gearcase could freeze and cause damage to the outboard.

Battery Storage
• Follow the battery manufacturer's instructions for storage and recharging.
• Remove the battery from the boat and check water level. Recharge if necessary.
• Store the battery in a cool, dry place.
• Periodically check the water level and recharge the battery during storage.

 

[hotdaddy27]

Yeah, plus getting the oil in the lowest 2 cylinders is a pain in the a--.

Xsive, you are right about a good portion of the oil coming out of the exhaust port. When I start the bitc h in the spring I have to "simple green" my lower unit due to all the run off.

You should be all set now Cluapie. Hurry up, the cold is here!!!!!

HD

 

[mkhammer]

winterizing tips

Witerizing tips at: blog.mkhammer.com