Anyone put a big motor in a ZT 280 and encounter chine walk @ about 82-84 gps mph? Any insight on helping this problem would be appreciated. I have a pro charged built 540 with imco out drive and external hydro steering. Stock tabs. Have a set of K planes to put on once I figure out best way to mount them. If I could fix chine walk boat has more speed left but wife don't like the chine walking.
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ZT 280 chine walk
- Thread starter Htg900
- Start date
DropTop5.0
Well-known member
I'm not much of an expert here but how does the hull look? Has it ever been flipped and blue printed?
Try reading about this project 100 MPH chaparral: http://speedonthewater.com/boat-res...-chaparral-villain?highlight=WyJ1enpvbGluYSJd
With an outboard you want to get the motor up higher out of the water by adding a low water pickup and nose cone. What do inboard guys do? Change your X Dimension might be a place to start reading about.
Try reading about this project 100 MPH chaparral: http://speedonthewater.com/boat-res...-chaparral-villain?highlight=WyJ1enpvbGluYSJd
With an outboard you want to get the motor up higher out of the water by adding a low water pickup and nose cone. What do inboard guys do? Change your X Dimension might be a place to start reading about.
RNGRDVE
Well-known member
I doubt blue printing would change it. My hull was blueprinted before it left the factory and still develops some chine that I'm trying to get the wife used to. I do have a different boat and am not sure how mine would feel around 82, it doesn't have enough power to get there.
Gimme Fuel
Well-known member
Prop can have a big effect on chine walk. Talking to a good prop guy for a lab recipe tailored to your hull is almost a must when trying to run those speeds with a single. Also, don't forget that a blueprinted lower drive leg can also have profound increases in handling as the factory castings are not symmetrical or true by any means, or if a nose cone was added and wasn't set on straight. Look on facebook for a guy named Jim Millman, he has a ZT280 with big power and is also having handling issues at those same speeds but he is trying to run a -2" drive also. I'm sure Jason Kunkel could be a huge resource for you also.
corey331
Well-known member
I would try to contact Kunkel's Marine in Ontario, OH as well. They have made almost all of the checkmate hulls go very fast. They have a single engine 300 Convincor that runs in the 115mph range. I'm pretty sure he is going to refer you to BBlades or somebody like that for some prop work.
Also, there used to be a zt280 local to me called "Blown Milk Check" that had huge power and was supposedly running in the triple digits. I know it has new owners, but I did see it last October at the Ceasar Creek Shootout. If you could track down them, they might be of assistance to ya.
Also, there used to be a zt280 local to me called "Blown Milk Check" that had huge power and was supposedly running in the triple digits. I know it has new owners, but I did see it last October at the Ceasar Creek Shootout. If you could track down them, they might be of assistance to ya.
fast94persuader
Well-known member
My 259 ( basically same hull) does the same thing when I get to 80. Usually a little corrective steering and a tap the trim button down a little and it goes away. Once it settles down I can trim back up. I do have huge livorsi tabs on it but I have not successfully made them work for me. Usually dropping them down at speed makes the problem worse. I have set them up neutral before a run and it does steady the boat but it also slows it down. I just figure 80ish is fast enough in a single engine 26 foot hull. It would probably be hard to eliminate it all together. I have a labbed 28 bravo. Just for reference.
When I first got the boat I drove it into trouble a few times. It actually scared the crap out of me once. It took a little time to realize what it would do and what it wouldn't. I learned that driving this boat that fast requires more than just stabbing the throttle and jammin up on the trim button until the huge rooster tail slows you down. I'm not saying you don't know how to drive your boat, I'm just telling you my experience, and it almost got me wet more than once. It sounds like you have more motor than me so the problem may be way worse a few mph faster. But basically a little seat time and I learned to live with it. My wife doesnt like going that fast anyway, having been a passenger once or twice when it got knarly. So usually I get hit on the arm way before it starts to walk lol.
When I first got the boat I drove it into trouble a few times. It actually scared the crap out of me once. It took a little time to realize what it would do and what it wouldn't. I learned that driving this boat that fast requires more than just stabbing the throttle and jammin up on the trim button until the huge rooster tail slows you down. I'm not saying you don't know how to drive your boat, I'm just telling you my experience, and it almost got me wet more than once. It sounds like you have more motor than me so the problem may be way worse a few mph faster. But basically a little seat time and I learned to live with it. My wife doesnt like going that fast anyway, having been a passenger once or twice when it got knarly. So usually I get hit on the arm way before it starts to walk lol.
Is your external steering full dual ram with helm or is it an add on single ram. Mine had full dual ram. I had a 253 with almost 1200 hp. My experience was the boat would chine walk from around 80-85 until the upper 90's and then would be fairly stable until the top speed of 105. When it started to chine walk it required some steering input to keep the boat level. It took some practice but after some seat time I was always able to keep the boat level and "drive" through it. I don't think it's possible to go real fast in these hulls without some steering input to keep the boat level.
JUPITER PULSARE
Well-known member
Htg900, tabs will not cure your chine walking problem. Proper set up will help. What prop are you running?? How much setback is your IMCO drive? What is your propshaft height?? All these questions come into play when dealing with handling issues. Seat time and flat water will help you learn to control some of the chine walk. A drive that is too deep will create chine walk. Moving the drive back (by using a stand off box) and raising you propshaft height will certainly help but these are all relatively expensive changes to make...
RNGRDVE
Well-known member
I know I need more seat time in my boat but mine will not develop any walk with flat water. My boat doesn't want to really start flying without about 8" of chop. I need more seat time next season and I want to play with props a little but I'm betting the PO set it up pretty well.
Gimme Fuel
Well-known member
When my 253 is on the pad, I am giving constant very small steering adjustments to balance on the pad and have not had a problem except one prop I ran took more work to get it to balance and tried to walk. They are driver's boats, not one that will just go straight and true when you hold the wheel still.
Just another typical problem, seems that checkmate boats have more handling issues than a old school bus! Search around on this site you will see what I mean.
corey331
Well-known member
fast94persuader
Well-known member
Haha I bet we don't hear much from that guy any time soon...
Number a: be sure to let us know what kind of boat you have and where you boat so we can get somebody to show you what checkmate is all about
Number b: your right checkmates aren't for people who don't know what they're doing or have no idea how to handle a boat, I might suggest that bayliner just came out with a new design maybe check that out.
Number c: if you don't like checkmates then what are you doing on our site?
Number a: be sure to let us know what kind of boat you have and where you boat so we can get somebody to show you what checkmate is all about
Number b: your right checkmates aren't for people who don't know what they're doing or have no idea how to handle a boat, I might suggest that bayliner just came out with a new design maybe check that out.
Number c: if you don't like checkmates then what are you doing on our site?
ezstriper
Well-known member
thats just because they run faster than most per HP, nothing like putting the gun right to your head to start off...
ezstriper
Well-known member
now to the original question...we run a 253 with about 750hp full dual ram hyd steering std tabs...about 80+ will chine walk, if you are running right with the chop or right into it not to bad...but it you get anything from the side to upset it , not pretty, playing with the drive sometimes will help, tabs down a little can to but scrubs off speed quickly, running a stock 28p bravo 1 and std bravo drive, but in the comment to a checkmate thing...I have driven a 29 fountain several times(friends) in our radar runs, same deal in the 80 range things would get unruley...so NOT a checkmate only deal...usually not a Baja issue as they won't run fast enough without insane power...
Checkmate builds their boats with no hook and with additional lifting strakes compared to many other manufacturers. The result is as others have stated. Checkmates are faster than most with the same power. The downside to that is dealing with chine walk. Most v-bottoms will experience chine walking at some speed, it is not particular to just Checkmates. Hope that helps you understand more about the boats the members here love.
jazzy
Well-known member
Check 253
I hear the ones with the ventilated bottoms ride real nice!
Op,
On the chine issue, as long as it's still tracking in a straight line you're usually ok, props make a big difference in how they handle. Getting something that will give you the right balance between bow and stern lift. Setting the hull during acceleration and then slowly bringing it up in speed till you feel it begin, then finding out what inputs help and what don't is my best advice. Also more hp to get you through the spots where it happens helps as well
Excellent first post. Let me guess you own a Baja?
Many thanks! I wouldn't be on this site if I didn't own a checkmate.when reading a lot of the posts on this site. It seems to me the boats coming from the factory are ill equipped or poorly designed. Let's see,chine walk built in,needs different prop,needs solid motor mounts,needs hydraulic steering,raise motor way up,the best one is have hull blueprinted! Etc. Etc. Or you don't know how to drive.do you think a bayliner needs all these mods to handle or perform half decent? I bet not. Signed just another school bus owner