Will30
Well-known member
Your fine with a 100 hp Motor on a 14 ft boat .
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1970 Checkmate MX-14
- Thread starter starviper10
- Start date
Your fine with a 100 hp Motor on a 14 ft boat .
starviper10
Active member
That's what I was thinking. I'm not looking for a super fast boat. Some of my neighbors and my mom are a little scared as it is with the possibility of 100 hp.
Will30
Well-known member
Your not the only one . When me and my dad hung my 150 on the back of my 15ft my mom come unglued .
starviper10
Active member
Alright I don't know if I did well or not with this deal, but this morning I bought both of those engines for a total of $1000. Both engines have compression within 3 psi of the other cylinders. I will have more accurate compression measurements later. The average is about 120 or 121. The guy was able to back his trailer in with the running engine into the water on the boat ramp, and run it. It does not look like it has enough water coming out. When we pulled it back out, and took the lower unit plug out, there was no o ring on the plug, and the oil was chocolate brown. However, the other engine that is stuck in gear has perfect dark blue lower unit oil, and has that awful smell. He says it has a new impeller.
I'm going to go out and take some pictures of both engines later and post them. The one with thats stuck in gear has an "SS" symbol on the cowling and on the front side of the top cover. The other engine does not. What does that mean?
This was the mount he had the engine on.
We were able to use his crane thing to put one engine on the checkmate
I'm going to go out and take some pictures of both engines later and post them. The one with thats stuck in gear has an "SS" symbol on the cowling and on the front side of the top cover. The other engine does not. What does that mean?
This was the mount he had the engine on.
We were able to use his crane thing to put one engine on the checkmate
Will30
Well-known member
Alright I don't know if I did well or not with this deal, but this morning I bought both of those engines for a total of $1000. Both engines have compression within 3 psi of the other cylinders. I will have more accurate compression measurements later. The average is about 120 or 121. The guy was able to back his trailer in with the running engine into the water on the boat ramp, and run it. It does not look like it has enough water coming out. When we pulled it back out, and took the lower unit plug out, there was no o ring on the plug, and the oil was chocolate brown. However, the other engine that is stuck in gear has perfect dark blue lower unit oil, and has that awful smell. He says it has a new impeller.
I'm going to go out and take some pictures of both engines later and post them. The one with thats stuck in gear has an "SS" symbol on the cowling and on the front side of the top cover. The other engine does not. What does that mean?
This was the mount he had the engine on.
We were able to use his crane thing to put one engine on the checkmate
Boat looks better already with a Merc on the back . It that guy has pulled the lower unit to change the impeller its very possible the lower shift shaft is 180 out ...
starviper10
Active member
Yeah I'd say it looks a lot better!
I also got two sets of controls. One is complete (RED), with the wiring harness, shift and throttle cables, rpm wires, and battery hook ups. The other one (BLUE) has the plug end cut off, but still has cables for throttle and shift, rpm wires, and even tilt controls.
I also got two sets of controls. One is complete (RED), with the wiring harness, shift and throttle cables, rpm wires, and battery hook ups. The other one (BLUE) has the plug end cut off, but still has cables for throttle and shift, rpm wires, and even tilt controls.
starviper10
Active member
OK here's engine #1. The number is: 2684127. So I'm guessing 1969. This is the one that I saw running and has the lower unit oil problems (chocolate milk color, leaks). It also needs a new impeller, as it doesn't seem to have the right amount of water coming out. Compression is as follows: 1=120, 2= 120, 3= 119, 4=121, 5=117, 6=118.
starviper10
Active member
Engine #2. #2320776, so maybe 1968. This is the one that is stuck in gear, but has a good lower unit in terms of oil, and is supposed to have a new impeller. Compression: 1=120, 2=119, 3=120, 4=121, 5=121, 6=121. This is the one with those ss symbols. Keep in mind these compression tests were taken with a $45 dollar compression tester from O'Reilly. I think my plan is to use this engine, and fix the lower unit shifting issue.
Both engines have the emergency pull start ropes.
Both engines have the emergency pull start ropes.
starviper10
Active member
The compression check for engine #1 was done before it was run. He did not run engine #2. He said it was cold blooded or something. #2 was the one laying on its side on his trailer, not on the back like the other one.
Will30
Well-known member
The one that was run . When you can fire it back up and run for about 15 minutes or so and than check it . It should come up some. Now him saying its cold blooded that's crap lol.
starviper10
Active member
Well the one that was running is still leaking oil now out of the plug. I'd like to get both running and then compare their compression. That way I know which engine/power-head to use.
GOOD news my friend! after running 40:1 fuel throught the motor and its warn from running the compression will go up for sure.
starviper10
Active member
Do I need to run it on the boat like on plane and have a load? Or is it fine to have it idle and maybe rev up a few times? I'm asking because I have an idea to run them in trash cans and then take a compression test. I would take the one stuck in gear and take the prop off first. I don't need to get soaked.
starviper10
Active member
GOOD news my friend! after running 40:1 fuel throught the motor and its warn from running the compression will go up for sure.
I thought it was 50:1. That's what I've been doing for my other engines. The guy I bought it from used 50:1 as well.
Will30
Well-known member
It is 50:1 mix . All you have to do is just let it idle warm it up and check it . You will be fine
starviper10
Active member
Do you think I could disconnect the shifter cable so it doesn't go into gear and run the engine #1 in a trash can even though we drained a little lower unit oil?
I just thought if it has not ran in years the extra oil would not hurt.
Yes, just take that prop off and lets fine out the compression then why don`t you drop the lower unit and check if its out 180 like Will said and then you can see if the shift rod with turn at the same time.
Yes, just take that prop off and lets fine out the compression then why don`t you drop the lower unit and check if its out 180 like Will said and then you can see if the shift rod with turn at the same time.