• Welcome to the Checkmate Community Forums forums.

    You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions, articles and access to our other FREE features.
    By joining our free community you will be able to:

    » Interact with over 10,000 Checkmate Fanatics from around the world!
    » Post topics and messages
    » Post and view photos
    » Communicate privately with other members
    » Access our extensive gallery of old Checkmate brochures located in our Media Gallery
    » Browse the various pictures in our Checkmate photo gallery

    Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

    If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact support by clicking here or by using the"contact us" link at the bottom of the page.

1988 Enticer restoration. Advice welcomed.

I wish I'd have known about that stuff before I wasted my money on Interlux deck paint for the deck on my 8x8 flatbed trailer. A little gas leaked on that junk once and it dissolved right off.
 
Ok guys, sorry for the long absence. I have had a very busy schedule the last couple months and haven't made as much progress as I had hoped. The floor is finished other than sanding some seams if I decide not to use carpet. Transom knees are finished and may be overkill but I'm not sure. I built them just like the transom and then glassed them in with several layers of glass. Pretty much I'm ready to slide the deck back onto the hull. Stringers are fully glassed to the hull, floor is glassed on the underside as well as the top. I hope this thing doesn't weigh a ton from all the glass and thick knees I added.
dscf0322u.jpg

dscf0318vr.jpg

dscf0320a.jpg

dscf0323r.jpg

dscf0326gj.jpg

dscf2002wx.jpg

dscf2004e.jpg

dscf2003o.jpg

I have more pics if there is something someone wants to see. The glass all wetted out pretty well. Any white you see is probably sanding dust as I have a bunch to clean up before I paint or do any more glass work.
 
Last edited:
Your work turned out fantastic!!!! :thumb:I wondered what happen to you, figured I needed to round up mateman, caddman along with myself to look for ya!!:D:poke:
 
I'm back after another long absence with progress pics and a question. I painted the bilge about a month ago with Interlux bilge paint and followed the prep instruction. It looked great and I finished my seat bases and future foot throttle mounting pad. This weekend I was cleaning the deck preparing for my Durabak floor coating. I washed with dish detergent and a brush and hosed out. After that dried overnight I wiped everything down with Xylol as per the Durabak instructions and rolled the coating on the floor and rest of the interior. It turned out great even though I'm not sure I love the color. My problem is when I went to look at it this morning after it dried overnight, the bilge paint rippled last night and is peeling off. It appears just where the water ran across it. The fumes in the garage this morning were strong from the Durabak and an open container of Xylol. Could the open container caused this? Is there something in the cured glass that would cause this as it was washed across the bilge area. I used a little bit of Dawn dish washing soap and the Xylol evaperated and never touched the bilge. You can see in the last pic. I want to repaint the bilge but don't want this to happen again. Thanks, Scott.
dscf2019t.jpg

dscf2020z.jpg

dscf2021cc.jpg

dscf2024x.jpg

dscf2023df.jpg

dscf2022u.jpg
 
Welcome back!!! Do you know if the two products used are compatible? The floor looks great, is it non skid material?
 
Last edited:
Thanks. Durabak is basically a D.I.Y. spray or roll in bedliner. It just happens to be recomended for marine use. The bilge paint went over the bare fiberglass work in the bilge area so I can't think of what would not be compatable. It's strange that it only appears to be wrinkled where it may have gotten wet. All I can think of is the solvent fumes caused this but I can't imagine how. One thing I do know is that everything in my garage has rusted since I began this project. My vice, wire wheels and brushes, mig wire, stainless props and even my stainless toolbox. There is definately something in the air.
 
Interesting! When you wiped the floor with Xylol prior to rolling the Durabak did any of it get in the bilge area? I've used interlux bilge kote and haven't had any problems.
 
Have you poped some of the wrinkles to see if there is water under the interlux? I wonder if when you pulled the tape after painting if some of the paint might have pulled up with it then when you cleaned it, some water might have gotton under the paint.
The boat is looking great.
 
Scott where did you find/purchase the Durabak, online or locally?
you can get it online,i used some on a comercial building bathroom floor after talking to a guy that is in the CG the used it on the deck of a bouy tender and it wears like iron.It is pricey and you have to pay a haz.shipping fee. but well worth the price.
 
If the water sat on top the paint it may have caused the problem by not letting the solvents in the paint evaporate as it should in the drying process. If you get water on fresh paint, lightly blow it dry with an air hose if you have a compressor. It can save the paint job. Close all your containers and try to ventilate the garage during cure time. I would let everything set for a few days and redo that spot. Good luck. Boat is looking good!
 
Back
Top