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1988 Enticer restoration. Advice welcomed.

As for clamping the new transom in, I used every esixting hole in the outer skin I could. The motor mount holes as well as the drain holes. I drilled smaller holes than needed to mount the engine, so if they were off a little, it would effect anything down the road. I clamped the transom with 2x4s on the outside to spread the load. This worked great until it was time to take the clamps off. The cabosil seeped through the holes and glued the 2x4s to the boat, I had to chip the 2x4s off. So if you go this route, put some wax paper between the 2x4s and boat so it comes off clean.
 
Well the two sides are joined together but I'm not sure how well. I mixed about a quart of resin to 3/4 teaspoon of hardener to buy me some time. I added about four measuring cups of Aerosil and it came to a pretty thick mixture. I trowed it out on to the transom and when I clamped them, not alot oozed out from the edges. Some edges none oozed out even though I'm pretty sure it was covered. How long should I leave it clamped?
 
Today I unclamped the two pieces of the transom and they seem very solid and it appears the thickened resin covered and joined quite well. I put the first layer of glass on the outer skin this evening. I hope to be done with the glass layers and ready to attatch to the hull this weekend. The temps are cooling off around here and I want to do it in the morning when it is cool enough that I will have plenty of time to work with. I am thinking 1/2 gallon of Resin plus Cabosil will be enough to set this transom to the hull. How much did you guys mix on your projects, which hull, and was it enough? Thanks, Scott.
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are you going to dry fit it first? you may want to round the sides and bottom of the wood that face the hull.and figure a little more than 1/2 gallon .better to have extra than not enough
 
use some 2inch masking tape on the holes on the outside of the hull.helps keep you glue where it belongs and helps prevent your clamps ect.from gluing to your boat. its looking good!:cheers:
 
paulsboats said:
are you going to dry fit it first? you may want to round the sides and bottom of the wood that face the hull.and figure a little more than 1/2 gallon .better to have extra than not enough
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I probably should round it. The factory one I removed was rounded. Would probably fit much better as the corner where the hull floor and sides meet the transom skin is not perfect. Should I round both sides or just the side facing the hull? If I round it, I would probably just use a grinder. Opinions? Thanks, Scott.
 
Lawson'sLanding said:
I probably should round it. The factory one I removed was rounded. Would probably fit much better as the corner where the hull floor and sides meet the transom skin is not perfect. Should I round both sides or just the side facing the hull? If I round it, I would probably just use a grinder. Opinions? Thanks, Scott.
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Round both sides and you can use a grinder or router to do that.
 
I am wondering if I should test fit and find the location where the horizontal brace is going to go and then glass it to the transom on the sawhorses? Will I be able to glass the bottom side of the brace in the boat or will the glass keep falling down?
 
Lawson'sLanding said:
I am wondering if I should test fit and find the location where the horizontal brace is going to go and then glass it to the transom on the sawhorses? Will I be able to glass the bottom side of the brace in the boat or will the glass keep falling down?
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Glassing the horizontal brace to the transom on sawhorses would be much easier. Most add the horizontal brace after the transom is glassed in. You'll be able to glass the underside without it falling. Are you notching the knee braces to fit over the horizontal brace or does it go underneath?
 
Transom is in! After I remove the clamps I will mix up another small batch of thickened resin to fix any scalloped edges that might not be the way I want them prior to glassing. I have a gap at the top center of the transom that I may have to cut lower and I will fill that gap prior to putting the deck back on. I mixed the resin for a slow set and put the gallon of resin in the fridge for a little bit to hopefully give me more time before it sets up. Ended up mixing 3 quarts of resin and then added almost 3qts by volume of Cabosil. I am pleased with the results. Thanks to everyones help on here. 6 total layers of glass, this thing should be better than when it was new. Thanks, Scott.
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cmpulse170 said:
Nice work!!! :thumb:Transom looks like you could hang a 300 Merc off of it.
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Thanks. I don't know about a 300 but I hope there is a V6 in my future. On to the next phase of this restoration and more questions. I ordered more glass from Mertons last week and as soon as it gets here I will start tabbing this thing to the hull. I removed the flotation foam in the rear and don't plan to replace it. The foam in the boxes at the consoles and the foam in the nose appear to be dry. I was going to keep them but also want this to be as strong yet light weight as possible. If the foam in the nose is dry, how much do you think it and the wood weighs? I would love to loose any weight I could, especially off of the bow area. Should I leave the rest or strip it all out? How much weight do you think it will save? Opinions? Thanks, Scott.
 
Lawson'sLanding said:
Thanks. I don't know about a 300 but I hope there is a V6 in my future. On to the next phase of this restoration and more questions. I ordered more glass from Mertons last week and as soon as it gets here I will start tabbing this thing to the hull. I removed the flotation foam in the rear and don't plan to replace it. The foam in the boxes at the consoles and the foam in the nose appear to be dry. I was going to keep them but also want this to be as strong yet light weight as possible. If the foam in the nose is dry, how much do you think it and the wood weighs? I would love to loose any weight I could, especially off of the bow area. Should I leave the rest or strip it all out? How much weight do you think it will save? Opinions? Thanks, Scott.
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Very Nice:bigthumb:

If the foam is dry, it won't save you much on weight.
 
I removed the clamps and everything seems very solid. I mixed up a smaller batch of thickened resin and made a good fillet so that the glass will hopefully go down nicely. I also filled the gap at the very top middle where I made the transom wood a little taller. I will have to chip all of the DBF out of the gap in the splashwell if this cap is ever going to go back on. I have been looking at new rubrail and inserts and was shocked at how expensive it is. I called a # for rubrail.com and got a quote of $178 for three 12' pieces of rail, $87.50 for a roll of insert and get this, $120 shiiping from Florida to South Carolina! Has anyone bought new rubrail for their rides and how much did you pay? Thanks, Scott.
 
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I wanted to buy a 6' stick of stainless steel rubrail to go across the back until I found out the shipping cost.:shakehead: Absolutely amazing!! That was shipped from NC to SC.
 
I plan on tabbing this thing to the hull in the next day or two and would love to test fit or fit the cap on this weekend. I have looked around online and got some ideas on tabbing this thing in. If anyone has any tips or suggestions on how to do this I would love to hear them. I plan on starting with a narrow strip and going back with a wider one on top of that. Suggestions on width? Is two strips enough or do I need more? I ordered some of the 4oz glass like OSG suggested to "put the purdy on it" when I get done. (some of yall from up north may have no idea what I just said) I did add a little more to my fillet and filled the gap at the top. The top of the transom wood is now an inch or so taller than the factory made it hopefully adding some strength. If it is too tall for the cap to fit I can grind it away and reglass if I need to.
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You got it right. Start with a small strip 8-12" split equally between the hull and transom, then next layer 4-6" beyond the first. Add more filler and fill the crack between the transom and the hull, last picture I think. Do you have a picture looking at the transom from the inside?
 
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