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540 freshin up "I hope"

Looks good, go for the 345's they're awesome!
Are you going to have them ported or just run them "as cast"?

I'm sure with a blower motor it will make huge power either way.
 
I think the CNC 360's would be a bit overkill for a blower motor.....If you were going N/A then I think they would be on the upper limit of what you want. Those will flow a lot of air and I think you would be looking at making power up to 6k to take advantage of them. The little extra for the CNC is worth it though. It doesn't take much after the fact port work to surpass that amount.
 
For what its worth mine are dart cnc 355's...
Been very happy with them, but I don't think you need that much flow on a blower motor.
 
Gimme Fuel said:
I think the CNC 360's would be a bit overkill for a blower motor.....If you were going N/A then I think they would be on the upper limit of what you want. Those will flow a lot of air and I think you would be looking at making power up to 6k to take advantage of them. The little extra for the CNC is worth it though. It doesn't take much after the fact port work to surpass that amount.
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Yes I was just thinking about that . The raw cast 345's will work . They have big flow #s just like they are.
 
I picked up a set of AFR CNC 335's over the summer for mine. Those reaaaaly flow compared to similar sized darts. The medium runner size makes great low/midrange torque yet yields really nice top end numbers where I have seen them used. After I got them, I saw the gents on BoatFreaks forum seem to think they are the perfect head for 5400-580 cu. in marine engines. Given the flow data and design, I agree. I still like Dart products also. A set of Pro 1 345's were my second choice. I can't wait to turn mine on the dyno this spring and see what they make.

Can you get those 345 Pro 1's with a CNC exhaust side only? That is where good gains are to be had on blower motors.
 
I know Bob is going to suggest the AFR's . But they are a little more money than I want to spend. I just want a good reliable motor that makes good power . My 1st mate is not into high speeds and I like taking her with me .
But I do not have a problem leaving her on shore when I want to go fast.:banana:
 
Bob does like to push the AFR's but they are just plain awesome performing heads so I can see why. After all, it is boating we are talking about here....since when has money ever been a deciding factor in marine builds? Haha!
 
Yes that'ts what think.:thumb:JUST BRING OUT ANOTHER THOUSAND:thumb:
and another and another and another and another . O well,they have not stop making hundred dollar bills.
 
I want to dyno this motor when it gets done . Does anybody know of a dyno shop around So.Illinois. I have a chassis dyno but can't figure out how to get a tire on the prop shaft.Ha Ha.
Is there such a thing as a marine dyno that would have the water cooled exhaust.?
I can travel .
 
There are dyno shops out there that can accomodate the wet exhaust. It is worth looking for one that can accomodate the wet exhaust because of the large dierence between dry dyno headers and the marine exhaust. I know o one or two around the Detroit area and thats about it.
 
Jeff, I was gonna ask you about that... Your wife didn't want you to run 80 how is she gonna feel about 100?

We should start a poll to bet which one of you gets their motor done first. I think going on the checkmate fun run this year is becoming an unavoidable necessity if your both running!
 
fast94persuader said:
Jeff, I was gonna ask you about that... Your wife didn't want you to run 80 how is she gonna feel about 100?

We should start a poll to bet which one of you gets their motor done first. I think going on the checkmate fun run this year is becoming an unavoidable necessity if your both running!
Click to expand...
I showed her the vid of Big Red chime walking .She said if that happens with her in the boat I will be the proud owner of a Pontoon boat.:banana:
Bottom end will be together this weekend (unless I go fishing),
 
I have the long EMI stainless risers and have my O2 and EGT bungs welded in about halfway through the 90* bend in the riser. Just make sure that they will stay dry.
 
Power flow risers . How about a 1 1/2 inch spacer between the riser and elbow.
Then tap the spacer and install sensor.. water would pass through the spacer. It would not have to be that thick for a EGT probe but to far away.
I would rather have a wide band. With water passing through the spacer I don't think heat would be a problem..What do you think?
540build.jpg
 
I think Imco even already makes a spacer for doing just that. The spacer should have a slight angle to it though so your tails will still line up with your tips......you cant just put a "square" spacer in there otherwise your long tails would not line up real well and that short piece of hose would have to make a good bend to connect back to the tips. Im pretty sure Imco already makes the correct block with taper and bung for the wideband. That is quite common
 
Hey if you fab something up make sure you take into account the length of the sensor. I had to get a little cute with mine I put them in the tails. You drill a hole bigger than the outside of the bung through the outside layer of metal than take a ball peen hammer and bend the two layers together, weld them then drill a smaller inner hole and then weld your bung in
 
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