C-Hawk trailer replacement parts, Atwood?

[illMATTic]

I need to rebuild my while brake system on my trailer. Its a C-Hawk with drum brakes. I was looking at some of the Atwood / replacement parts on e-trailer.com.

Could anyone confirm that the master cylinder and brake parts can be replaced with Atwood? I know this is kind of an open question but was hoping someone has rebuilt theirs using aftermarket parts rather than the high dollar parts from c-hawk.

 

[Gimme Fuel]

If your surge actuator says Attwood, then you should be fine. All of those parts are pretty generic. I know C-Hawk likes to encapsulate the actuator in the frame which is dumb IMO. You are stuck rebuilding it with parts versus just bolting a new unit on.

My entire surge system is shot on my 2000 Eagle. I am converting to straight electric. $280 from etrailer.com for 4 10" self adjusting backing plates, new 2" rigid coupler, break-away box, 7 wire plug, and few other items to complete installation.

I hate surge brakes with a passion. It will be sooooo nice to have complete and variable control.

 

[illMATTic]

I haven't taken it apart yet. Thanks

 

[DropTop5.0]

This is the one I was going to use but ended up taking it to a shop.

http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Atwood/85841.html

 

[Old Navy]

My C-Hawk had a Dico master cylinder. I replaced it with a new one that was the same. I got the lines from a trailer parts place (complete kit with steel and rubber lines). When I priced the drum brake parts and it was quite a lot of money, so I upgraded to Kodiak disc brakes on all 4 wheels for just a little more. So far, I have avoided 2 car/deer accidents and left amazing trailer skid marks on some Michigan roads. The surge brakes work very good but I do put a C-clamp on the tongue when backing up at the launch so the breaks do not apply when in reverse. My 12v solenoid holds but if rolling to a stop sometimes the brakes apply and backing up is not possible.

 

[illMATTic]

My trailer is a dual axle but only has brakes on the rear. I do need drums and too so I may just look at a disc upgrade.

Do I just measure everything and get the proper size or is there a better way?

 

[illMATTic]

Looks like $200 for new drums and shoe assemblies. OR I can get a disc upgrade for 50 bucks more.


My tongue has a reverse lockout on it. I have never used it. Probably because my brakes have been garbage for a while now.

 

[Old Navy]

I like the stopping power of the disc brakes. My axles had flanges to bolt the caliper brackets to. It was a simple swap. If you put discs on and have a drum master cylinder you have to remove the residual pressure valve in the master. It looks like a little silver disc in the rear. Look at Kodiaks website for application info. I got my brakes from Ritchfield Trailer Supply in GR, they also have a store in Flint I believe.

 

[corey331]

As far as the reverse lock out goes, I know ndaniels on here just rebuilt all his drum brakes on his Eagle trailer and when he ordered the new stuff they gave him the option of Reverse Break Away. Basically, if the shoes feel the drums going backwards, they break away and allow the drum to roll freely even with the surge brakes applying pressure. As soon as you roll forward, the brakes come back into position and work like normal. I know he loves it.

 

[RNGRDVE]

My tongue has a reverse lockout on it. I have never used it. Probably because my brakes have been garbage for a while now.

What wiring connector does your trailer have?
If a 5 flat or 7 round it should see the reverse lamp signal to lockout.
I have to back into my shop at work up hill, I have learned to put in reverse just before full stop so the lockout comes on before the brakes engage.

 

[illMATTic]

What wiring connector does your trailer have?
If a 5 flat or 7 round it should see the reverse lamp signal to lockout.
I have to back into my shop at work up hill, I have learned to put in reverse just before full stop so the lockout comes on before the brakes engage.

Its the manual type lockout.

 

[Gimme Fuel]

If you spend the couple extra bucks on the "deluxe" reverse solenoid, it automatically bleeds off any existing line pressure when the solenoid is applied. This solves the issue of backing up hills and such. The normal solenoid will lock the line with whatever pressure is applied at the moment.

 

[Old Navy]

If you spend the couple extra bucks on the "deluxe" reverse solenoid, it automatically bleeds off any existing line pressure when the solenoid is applied. This solves the issue of backing up hills and such. The normal solenoid will lock the line with whatever pressure is applied at the moment.

Thats good to know. I actually used a "line lock" I had sitting around. I should change it.

 

[RNGRDVE]

Its the manual type lockout.

Gotcha. Mine has both manual and electric.

 

[ckaluger]

I used this place,http://www.easternmarine.com/ to buy a new surge master cylinder and coupler all in one. Mine was built by Tie Down and was $225 on their website and $129 on this site. Anyway you might want to check it out.

Chuck

 

[merc245]

Brakges, I do need no stinking Brakges! Well at least this summer, That's the first thing that's on the list next spring and I'll properly let the professionals handle it.

 

[Blue Mist '97]

Just wondering if you guys (Gimme Fuel and Illmattic) or anyone else made the swap out to electric brakes or just repaired your surge brakes? Are you happy with them now?

 

[Gimme Fuel]

Just wondering if you guys (Gimme Fuel and Illmattic) or anyone else made the swap out to electric brakes or just repaired your surge brakes? Are you happy with them now?

I have all the stuff to convert to full electric but only thing I have changed is to a straight Demvo rigid coupler. Had a severe lack of time to pull the wheels off and install the backing plates. Love pulling it with the solid coupler though! No more clunking and banging

 

[Blue Mist '97]

I have all the stuff to convert to full electric but only thing I have changed is to a straight Demvo rigid coupler. Had a severe lack of time to pull the wheels off and install the backing plates. Love pulling it with the solid coupler though! No more clunking and banging

Yep, know what you mean. I was hoping that a new shock would stop the clunk, but no such luck. It's funny, mine never clunked at all, until I took it in to have a broken brake line replaced and have the brakes adjusted and now it clunks often and is loud as heck.

I was thinking about stripping out all the hydraulic crud and just welding my surge coupler rigid, since C-Hawk sees fit to integrate them into the frame. Did you weld the straight coupler in or bolt it? Can you post a pic or two of it if you have any? Just curious as to how you did it.

 

[Gimme Fuel]

I just did a bolt on coupler. The one that would have been a straight bolt on to existing holes but it was back ordered. One I got is a bit shorter and used two of the three existing holes and I had to drill a third to line up. Literally was a ten minute swap. My eagle trailer had a straight tounge so it was not an issue. You chawk guys will have to probably just weld it. I think that setup is stupid of chawk frankly.