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Cleaver prop on Pulsare?

The 28p Raker II is a great prop with a ton of bow lift, I'm running the 28P rakerII currently on the exciter. I think that you'll have great results running one of em- should handle good. It doesn't have any bad characteristics on my hull- does everything really good. I'd think that a 28, or 26 would be the place to start- if you have access to a 28 to try, go for it!

The raker I is hard to find and I'm guessing that you're talking about a II. The rakerI supposedly had some handling issues with turning and sucked outta the hole from wht I read- but supposedly they are great for speed and the metal is exceptionally tough stuff. I did have one 28P rakerI I got off ebay, but when it arrived, it had extra vent holes that were drilled into it and then later welded shut. The guy offered me a refund, so I took it and never ran the prop- bought my RakerII then.
 
I know that it can be made to fit... same goes for fitting it on a mercury- it requires either machining of the barrel or a thicker thrust washer and a cut down prop nut on the merc. I know it can be made to work with the yami, but I'm not 100% what is needed to run it.

I'll look some more when I get the chance.


edit: looks like its the same thing for getting it to fit on a merc and yamaha?... I'm sure that someone will jump my azz if this is not right... I'd think that you could get away with running the thickest thrust washer you have and spacing it as needed with a stainless washer- it will still have to have a thinner nut cause there is only 3/8" of thread left on the propshaft for the nut to get ahold of. I spaced mine this way when I wanted to run my raker, but was still waiting on the correct thrust to get shipped to me.
 
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I'd like to hear about how it works out if he tries it... I know tempest props are supposedly a little quicker on most boats- I think that Mike's boat would love a tempest.
 
The 28p Raker II is a great prop with a ton of bow lift, I'm running the 28P rakerII currently on the exciter. I think that you'll have great results running one of em- should handle good. It doesn't have any bad characteristics on my hull- does everything really good. I'd think that a 28, or 26 would be the place to start- if you have access to a 28 to try, go for it!

The raker I is hard to find and I'm guessing that you're talking about a II. The rakerI supposedly had some handling issues with turning and sucked outta the hole from wht I read- but supposedly they are great for speed and the metal is exceptionally tough stuff. I did have one 28P rakerI I got off ebay, but when it arrived, it had extra vent holes that were drilled into it and then later welded shut. The guy offered me a refund, so I took it and never ran the prop- bought my RakerII then.

Don't mean to hijack the thread, ND what size engine do you have to turn a 28P rakerII. I've got access to a 26P raker to try on my rude 250hp. I'm sure if it's a RakerII or not. I'm running a 24P raker right now.
 
I'm running a 99 225ho on a 18'6" hull with 8" of setback. The ho was also underrated- supposedly makes somwhere around 243hp if I remember right... Have you had a chance to try the 24 and get some solid #s? I'd also give the tempest a try if somone would loan you one. I'd bet that most bow lifters will work good on that enforcer outboard combo. Maybe even try out a fury? I think thats whats working good on the 2400 hulls.:bigthumb:
 
I'm running a 99 225ho on a 18'6" hull with 8" of setback. The ho was also underrated- supposedly makes somwhere around 243hp if I remember right... Have you had a chance to try the 24 and get some solid #s? I'd also give the tempest a try if somone would loan you one. I'd bet that most bow lifters will work good on that enforcer outboard combo. Maybe even try out a fury? I think thats whats working good on the 2400 hulls.:bigthumb:

The 24P Raker that's on the Enforcer now I've ran up to 65 mph and haven't turned it loose yet for some top end numbers. I'll get those once the resto is done and it warms up.:D
 
Back to the highjack, I've noticed that the Superboat/Progression/Activator all may have a steeper deadrise than the Pulsare, implying they would handle rough water better. However, some have a quite wide pad, which is great for speed but not great for rough. Others have no pad at all.

[/highjack], It's a Raker, not a Raker II.

Mike
 
this thread is all over the place... sorry. but the originaly question about a cleaver got answered:thumb:

The factory pad on super 21super is about normal-imo. I think its just a little more narrow than my checkmate. Its not even completely flat like the checkmate's, either... I'm really curious how hard this thing will be to balance:eek: It should ride great, though (espically with the i/o)


Here is only pics I have that show it:
 

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Back to the highjack, I've noticed that the Superboat/Progression/Activator all may have a steeper deadrise than the Pulsare, implying they would handle rough water better. However, some have a quite wide pad, which is great for speed but not great for rough. Others have no pad at all.

[/highjack], It's a Raker, not a Raker II.

Mike

Sorry Mike didn't mean to highjack your thread.:thumb:
 
That first one has a 12" notch cut out of the back of it, thats why it looks so wide.

Second one is stock superboat.
 
this thread is all over the place... sorry. but the originaly question about a cleaver got answered:thumb:

The factory pad on super 21super is about normal-imo. I think its just a little more narrow than my checkmate. Its not even completely flat like the checkmate's, either... I'm really curious how hard this thing will be to balance:eek: It should ride great, though (espically with the i/o)


Here is only pics I have that show it:

Most guys running the classic 21 either notch the transom or widen the pad. Your boat will do fine.
Lets face it guys all these boats have to be driven -- some more then others that is just a fact in driving padded V bottoms no matter what the dead rise is.
 
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