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cracked transom glass
- Thread starter mouse4x4
- Start date
mouse4x4
Active member
Well finally got home an got a look first hand the wood is def wet i drilled some holes around the inside like said it is wet i think the crack came from water sitting between the glass layer am wood because it has started to seperate from the top down. Looks like a full rebuild is on its way the last boat i did was a 79 baja i did transom floor an center stringer but i have done some more reading since then what is this 1708 cloth i have some woven an csm left from last glass job but this 1708 seems to be easier to work with does it go with polyester resin is it the cats meow how many layers of it are nessary for the floor an transom.
JT Patroni
Well-known member
I used 1708 in my resto. I used West System epoxy but you don't have to use it. Poly is just fine. Take a look at what I did with the 1708. Really strong material to bond the transom in place.
Everyone here has their on way of doing restorations. Here's what I would do:
the floor 1/2"or 5/8' exterior plywood or douglas fir fully encapsulated with mat and resin. Both sides coat the wood with polyester let it soak in, next one layer of 1.5 oz csm. Do the same on the top and wrap the mat around the edges. Once the stringers and transom is in, fill in around the edges with either marine bondo or hull and deck putty for a smooth transition between the floor and hull. Glass the floor in place from side to side with 2 layers of 1.5 oz csm.
Next the stringers or stringer do the same encapsulate the tringer/stringers. I would either use hull and deck putty or cabosil to embed the stringer to the hull making sure it no hard spots( stringer touching the hull). Us 1708 on both sides making sure you go up to the top and at least 6" on the hull.
After the inner/outer skin is repaired, next is the transom.
Finally the transom same as above, a layer of 1.5 oz csm both sides fully encapsulated. Use 3/4" douglas fir for the transom. Next embed the transom to the inner skin using cabosil and resin or hull and deck putty, clamp that tight and leave alone a few days to cure. Now you can either use three layers of 1708 staggering each layer, make sure to go at 6" pass on either side of the hull. Or you can use this lay up: 2 layers of 1.5 oz csm, 1 layer of woven roven and the last layer of 1.5 oz csm.
Here's a visual to go by borrowed from another website:
Attachments
mouse4x4
Active member
Yea when i ordered my stuff for the last go around i ordered 20 yards of 3 different types of glass way over board i could have built a fleet of boats with what i got. I am going to order some 1708 i used douglas fir on last job i used 3 layers of 1/2 inch in that transom is it any better to use 2 layers of 3/4 over 3 layers of 1/2. Also how do you keep the roller from getting locked up wit resin an be able to use it a few times
Buy plenty of roller covers, acetone will keep the roller cage from gumming up!! I have a bucket filled with acetone for that purpose. I think it doesn't matter which thickness you good with, probably depends on what you're hanging off the back. Personally I would go with 2-3/4" pieces bonded together.
Oops!! Sorry didn't realize that's what you're talking about. Yes I would soak the laminating rollers in acetone as well.
mouse4x4
Active member
Well i used the boat all season with the crack in the glass never got any worse i just 5200 it up an all was well. Now the work begins the season is ending i am going to start the restoration now. I am cutting the floor out an going to split it i want to glass the out side of the crack before i cut transom out so it dosent spread open on me. Should i just grind it out an csm it. With a layer or 2 i am geting whole boat painted after glass work is done. Need advise
Grind the crack out at least three or four inches on either side, making sure to remove all the gelcoat in that area. Then build it up with 1.5 oz csm after that use filler to smooth out the rough areas prior to painting.
