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jeff,s enchanter resto

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ballardnboyz

ballardnboyz

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ok, its time, for those of you that have been following my thread titled "core" and "whoops"...well you probably saw this coming, and know how it started...the following pictures is what I discovered today. With Offshore Ginger's and teamheart2 inputs, I decided to remove the plywood pad, I ended up removing most of the balsa core on the starboard side, stern, and 4 " up the port side. Alot of delicate chipping and cutting....this is where im at so far...
 

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and backing up a minute, I decided to remove my 3 year old floor as offshore ginger, or OG,(hope that good with you offshore?)pointed out anything black could be a issue. Well under the new floor heading towards the bow looked wet and black...so up came the floor...to the bow, which is next...the balsa looks ok up there, but at this point i need to be certain...:(
 

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more fun....

think the factory put enough foam in her???...i wouldnt call this quality control...the holes they drilled to install it were not seal properly at all.....
 

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ready for grinding and sanding....
 

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Jeff , first of all .....................working on Checks is like opening a can of worms....... considering i have worked on more then a few over the years and yes.............. the quality of there build during those years ....is much to be desired . Jeff , i will be sending you a pm . Jeff , just curious is that long slinkey person in post # 2 doing all the work really you .............................. Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha .............................yea right .........
 
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That's very good advice from the guys, when in doubt pull it out. I went thru the same situation with the Enforcer, removed the floor and ended up replacing the transom as well. Sometimes it's better to replace it now instead of later. :thumb:
 
OFFSHORE GINGER said:
Jeff , first of all .....................working on Checks is like opening a can of worms....... considering i have worked on more then a few over the years and yes.............. the quality of there build during those years ....is much to be desired .
Click to expand...

you said that before, and i agree...but i do like the hull style and it will be better than factory when im done...please give advice throughout this process at your leisure of course:welcome:
 
OG or anyone else qualified :sssh: would i grind or just sand the hull now? i have chipped all the loose and not so loose epoxy and balsa off, leaving some voids and alot of blood, sweat and tears...i hit my thumb at least 25 times...:mad:
 
cmpulse170 said:
That's very good advice from the guys, when in doubt pull it out. I went thru the same situation with the Enforcer, removed the floor and ended up replacing the transom as well. Sometimes it's better to replace it now instead of later. :thumb:
Click to expand...

funny thing Robbie, the transom is rock solid...maybe someone else had this old girl apart, Ive only had her 8 years....
 
OFFSHORE GINGER said:
Jeff , first of all .....................working on Checks is like opening a can of worms....... considering i have worked on more then a few over the years and yes.............. the quality of there build during those years ....is much to be desired . Jeff , i will be sending you a pm . Jeff , just curious is that long slinkey person in post # 2 doing all the work really you .............................. Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha .............................yea right .........
Click to expand...

oh...its me...all 145 lbs of me....
 
ballardnboyz said:
funny thing Robbie, the transom is rock solid...maybe someone else had this old girl apart, Ive only had her 8 years....
Click to expand...

My Pulse170 (built in1996) was the same way rotten floor, stringers and some core but the transom was solid. Go figure!!!
 
ballardnboyz said:
OG or anyone else qualified :sssh: would i grind or just sand the hull now? i have chipped all the loose and not so loose epoxy and balsa off, leaving some voids and alot of blood, sweat and tears...i hit my thumb at least 25 times...:mad:
Click to expand...

You should be able to sand now. You want that area clean so that when you start the rebuild process the glass and resin will adhere to it.
 
cmpulse170 said:
You should be able to sand now. You want that area clean so that when you start the rebuild process the glass and resin will adhere to it.
Click to expand...

so sand it with 80 grit???..looks like its pretty tough stuff...do i vacuum or wipe it down with something first...with OG's help and the article you posted, i think i got the rest.....
 
cmpulse170 said:
You should be able to sand now. You want that area clean so that when you start the rebuild process the glass and resin will adhere to it.
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Sorry ole friend .......did you mean grind .....Ha Ha Ha or ....................should we say (sand) with a very coarse grit #36 to properly prep ...............the surface .
 
OFFSHORE GINGER said:
Sorry ole friend .......did you mean grind .....Ha Ha Ha or ....................should we say (sand) with a very coarse grit #36 to properly prep ...............the surface .
Click to expand...

Yeah I meant grinding!!! Typo, got sanding on the brain with repainting my boat!!!:D
 
OFFSHORE GINGER said:
Sorry ole friend .......did you mean grind .....Ha Ha Ha or ....................should we say (sand) with a very coarse grit #36 to properly prep ...............the surface .
Click to expand...

is there a preferred method?..like i said, i have every tool under the sun...60 gal compressor with a DA would work???...or is there something better?
its amazing what you can get done in a 5000 sq. ft shop and no one bothering you!!:banana:
 
Hey , guy , just a quick mention ( general clean up before doing anything) vacuum the area of all debris , blow off all area's with a air nozzle , and call it good ..........................
 
ballardnboyz said:
is there a preferred method?..like i said, i have every tool under the sun...60 gal compressor with a DA would work???...or is there something better?
its amazing what you can get done in a 5000 sq. ft shop and no one bothering you!!:banana:
Click to expand...

You can use a 4 1/2" or 7" grinder with 36 grit disc. I'm not sure if a DA will work doing the grinding.
 
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