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jeff,s enchanter resto

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OFFSHORE GINGER said:
Jeff why buy two different types of fabric because my next question depends on your next answer and that is ......have you decide on what resin you are going to use Epoxy , Vinyl , or Poly ? Jeff , the bottom line is ......i would never use matt for any transom repair considering you need to take load conditions , and the the pounding a transom takes with an O/B into consideration .......or should i say show me the beef .
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OG are you saying to use one type of fabric? On all the different forums I've seen csm to encapsulate the wood then use 17oz to seal the transom to the hull.
 
Hey guy , first off the PL is called a fillet and second laying 1708 over a stringer that has rounded edges is a piece of cake , and yes i would only use one type of fabric when doing a transom which usally is 17 oz considering i only use Epoxy in all of my repairs along with using mutable layers of fabric staggered around the whole perimeter .
 
OFFSHORE GINGER said:
Hey guy , first off the PL is called a fillet and second laying 1708 over a stringer that has rounded edges is a piece of cake , and yes i would only use one type of fabric when doing a transom which usally is 17 oz considering i only use Epoxy in all of my repairs , and when i worked at Skater i did all the custom fabrication of the transom and motor well's for trip O/B along with adding X-tra knees for every application .
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Well I just learned something new!!! :thumb:I take it you encapsulate the wood first using 17oz?
 
cmpulse 170, i deleted part of that last post but non the less when i do a transom i always go with two layers of fabric , ply , two more layers of fabric , ply , two more layers of fabric , with mutable layers of fabric staggered around the perimeter which to some .....just might be a little over kill but............... in my case it is out of habit , and i just sent you a P.M...........................Take care , Artie
 
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OFFSHORE GINGER said:
Jeff why buy two different types of fabric because my next question depends on your next answer and that is ......have you decide on what resin you are going to use Epoxy , Vinyl , or Poly ? Jeff , the bottom line is ......i would never use matt for any transom repair considering you need to take load conditions , and the the pounding a transom takes with an O/B into consideration .......or should i say show me the beef .
Click to expand...

ill be using epoxy...I have a good friend who has been building/shaping surf boards(remember i live on the ocean)for 35 years, hes a wiz with glass, so i think that will go smooth. The process seems straight forward, just want to be sure im using the correct materials....so two layers of 3/4 marine plywood depending upon my existing transom??
 
cmpluse 170 , i forgot to mention that i also use a putty made from Cabosil and resin to fill in all voids , ect , ect , as needed when doing a transom.
 
cmpulse170 said:
There isn't much you can do to save it unfortuantely. The best way to replace the transom is to pop the cap slide it forward a couple of feet. Then you've got full access to replace the transom.
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is there a easier way to remove the rivets...with the pin in the center, the drill bit kicks to the side, what a pain in the a**
 
I'm going to throw something out there but keep in mind that I have never done a build before...

If you're going to do the transom, you shouldn't pop the cap until you have most of the floor completed. You don't want the shape of the hull to change. I thought one needed to complete the floor from the bow to an area near the transom, then do the transom, then complete the floor.

When Wired and Tx91z28 did there restos, they didn't do this and they had a very difficult time trying to get the cap back on.

Just food for thought.
 
cmpulse170 said:
Try a punch to knock the middle out then drill the rivet.
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thats what i was thinkin :thumb:....did you read the post above about the order of resto?? what are your thoughts, I would hate to peice the floor. However i understand what he is saying....I have a different hull style, that is my stringers dont attach to the transom, just the knee support, so I dont see how anything will change on the sides of the hull??? plus my knee support attach to the hull not to the stringers. Im thinking transom/knee brackets...reinstall the top then the core, stringer and floor....am i off base??
 
ballardnboyz said:
thats what i was thinkin :thumb:....did you read the post above about the order of resto?? what are your thoughts, I would hate to peice the floor. However i understand what he is saying....I have a different hull style, that is my stringers dont attach to the transom, just the knee support, so I dont see how anything will change on the sides of the hull??? plus my knee support attach to the hull not to the stringers. Im thinking transom/knee brackets...reinstall the top then the core, stringer and floor....am i off base??
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Drop has valid points, however you aren't removing the top completely just sliding forward enough to replace the transom.
 
cmpulse170 said:
Drop has valid points, however you aren't removing the top completely just sliding forward enough to replace the transom.
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I was actually thinking of removing it, as it needs some help under the bow...see my post "butt dents"....Maybe i can just put supports side to side to the correct dimension to hold it in place? However the repair needed could be done while the top is on...:sssh:
 
ballardnboyz said:
I was actually thinking of removing it, as it needs some help under the bow...see my post "butt dents"....Maybe i can just put supports side to side to the correct dimension to hold it in place? However the repair needed could be done while the top is on...:sssh:
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or i can do the transom work, with the top slid forward then take it off for repair...:lol:
 
ballardnboyz said:
I was actually thinking of removing it, as it needs some help under the bow...see my post "butt dents"....Maybe i can just put supports side to side to the correct dimension to hold it in place? However the repair needed could be done while the top is on...:sssh:
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Take a look JT Protronis resto he removed the top completely. You can remove the top then add 2x4's notched each side to hold the hull shape before replacing the floor.
 
cmpulse170 said:
Take a look JT Protronis resto he removed the top completely. You can remove the top then add 2x4's notched each side to hold the hull shape before replacing the floor.
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I dont plan on replacing the floor before i put the top back on....just the transom, core and knee braces..i think ill be ok...good info though!
 
Hey guy , why not support the transom and sides by blocking them up .....or using boat stands if you have them along with a little support along the keel area ,and yes drop has a very valid point considering i have seen bottoms loose there shape because structurally everything will have been removed in that area that is holding the boat together (shape) which could effect its running surface as far as keeping the bottom straight . Just my two cents .
 
ballardnboyz said:
ill be using epoxy...I have a good friend who has been building/shaping surf boards(remember i live on the ocean)for 35 years, hes a wiz with glass, so i think that will go smooth. The process seems straight forward, just want to be sure im using the correct materials....so two layers of 3/4 marine plywood depending upon my existing transom??
Click to expand...
Good man ............Epoxy is so much easier to work with then Poly or Vinyl providing more tensile strength ,longer work time & pot life / depending on what hardner you decide to use Fast , Slow , or X-tra slow , along with no stank ............. and yes two layers of 3/4 marine grade ply .
 
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