• Welcome to the Checkmate Community Forums forums.

    You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions, articles and access to our other FREE features.
    By joining our free community you will be able to:

    » Interact with over 10,000 Checkmate Fanatics from around the world!
    » Post topics and messages
    » Post and view photos
    » Communicate privately with other members
    » Access our extensive gallery of old Checkmate brochures located in our Media Gallery
    » Browse the various pictures in our Checkmate photo gallery

    Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

    If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact support by clicking here or by using the"contact us" link at the bottom of the page.

MX-16 Video Restoration with Tim

I have found some that have interior glue in them and if it is "cabinet grade" wood I would be afraid that it has interior glue since it is designed to use inside.
 
Hey Tim, I not sure if there is a right and wrong way but here is what I did. I mixed epoxy with the west systems bonding additive ( I forget the # ) and wet out the transom skin and the rear facing side of the first piece of plywood. I also wet out all the edges. Then I clamped into place and pushed a thickened mix (peanut butter) into any voids around the perimeter. After 24 hours I repeated the process for the second sheet. I didn't use any fabric until I made the inside skin. :cheers:

P.S. Don't forget to rough up that nice maple veneer with your new DA.:bigthumb:
 
There's multiple ways of repairing a transom, as redstrat stated earlier. First I would add a layer of CSM 1.5 oz to the inside skin, that's for covering any nicks/gouges from sanding/grinding. Next I would add a layer CSM 1.5 oz on your first part, that would face the inner skin. Then spread your peanut butter on the entire side and clamp it to the skin. Wait 24 hours add another layer of CSM 1.5 oz. After that sets up spread peanut butter on the next piece and clamp that in. Once both pieces are in fill in around the edges with peanut butter then totally encapsulate it with layers fabric using the overlapping method.


If you're using epoxy check this thread out: http://checkmate-boats.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22880
 
Hey all - thank you! I do have a question, or more of a predicament. I did not mention this earlier but I did try to use 1.5oz CSM before. I was going to use it to encapsulate the stringer, however I gave up because it was extremely hard to wet out. It seems so thick and it falls apart if you brush it.

Is there some trick to it? It seems like it will eat up A LOT of epoxy...
 
timapexcomputer said:
Hey all - thank you! I do have a question, or more of a predicament. I did not mention this earlier but I did try to use 1.5oz CSM before. I was going to use it to encapsulate the stringer, however I gave up because it was extremely hard to wet out. It seems so thick and it falls apart if you brush it.

Is there some trick to it? It seems like it will eat up A LOT of epoxy...
Click to expand...

Use a roller and cover for spreading the resin, makes it easier. You'll have to thoroughly saturate the CSM. Technically isn't doesn't fall apart just moves when applying the resin. That's why you have to really saturate it to get the fabric to lay down.
 
Here is a good link to understanding CSM and epoxy. http://www.westsystem.com/ss/chopped-strand-mat-epoxy/

I used it on the inside skin on my transom and struggled with it to contour in corners. It does eat epoxy.:irked: I haven't tried the stitched mat. I don't see the need to cover the transom layers with mat. The cab/epoxy peanut butter will fill the voids and the epoxy should give you all the water protection you need. Just my 2 cents and only worth half as much.

Your'e doing great Tim, asking a lot of questions and doing your homework. :bigthumb:
 
Thanks guys!

I am going to try to lay some CSM on the inside of the outer transom skin. I agree that the thickened epoxy will fill the voids but I actually want to do it to make the outer skin a bit thicker. Sanding the bondo stuff of left some thin spots so a little added structure can't hurt. That and I need the experience laying up CSM.

I will get some rollers and more brushes tonight after work and attack the CSM after the kids go to bed.

Thanks again guys! I look forward to getting some actual wood in the transom before the end of the week :)

:cheers:
 
timapexcomputer said:
Thanks guys!

I am going to try to lay some CSM on the inside of the outer transom skin. I agree that the thickened epoxy will fill the voids but I actually want to do it to make the outer skin a bit thicker. Sanding the bondo stuff of left some thin spots so a little added structure can't hurt. That and I need the experience laying up CSM.

I will get some rollers and more brushes tonight after work and attack the CSM after the kids go to bed.

Thanks again guys! I look forward to getting some actual wood in the transom before the end of the week :)

:cheers:
Click to expand...

I agree with redstrat on the peanut filling in the voids, the layup I suggested is for hanging big weight on the transom. For your application it's overkill. The other reason for adding a layer or two to the inside of the outer skin is to cover/seal up old screw holes. Buy those disposable paint liner trays once you're done rolling the resin out throw them away. You can get the cheap roller covers as well. I bought different sizes depending on what I was working on.
 
Rob B said:
Buy those disposable paint liner trays once you're done rolling the resin out throw them away. You can get the cheap roller covers as well. I bought different sizes depending on what I was working on.
Click to expand...

I didn't even think of that! Roller trays! Excellent. I will grab some of those too. Thank you.
 
Tim as always its so nice to keep seeing frequent updates . About your paint you said bright sides ? I used the interlux perfection . Its a hardened paint and has a very nice gloss and so far has held up to the abuse on the lake . I think that the bright sides is a enamel if im not mistaken . The perfection is a polyurethane . I know it cost a little more but its a pretty good paint . I will most likely use it again on my Checkmate V-141 when I ever get the chance to restore it ...
 
Thanks guys. I may go for the perfection. My only concern there was the fumes. Apparently perfection produces some wicked fumes where brightside is not as bad... Shall see when the time comes. After the transom and floor are done, I want to flip the hull and do some "body work" lol. Fairing and all that stuff.

Then it will be time to make a decision on paint.
 
You're doing a great job Tim!!! Those white spots you see behind the CSM is probably bondo spots. The only way not to see them is sand until you see pink. A angle 4 1/2" grinder with a cutoff wheel will clean up the fiberglass overlap on the corner. For paint I would go with Perfection or Awlgrip as well, it's more durable than Brightside.
 
Thanks Rob. I checked it this morning pulling the car out of the garage and it is solid! What's the rule? Apply epoxy in a hot shop and then let the shop cool down to decrease cure time?

Usually works that way cause I turn it up to 72 degrees to work out there and then down to 60 degrees when I am done for the night :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top