-
Welcome to the Checkmate Community Forums forums.
» Interact with over 10,000 Checkmate Fanatics from around the world!
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions, articles and access to our other FREE features.
By joining our free community you will be able to:
» Post topics and messages
» Post and view photos
» Communicate privately with other members
» Access our extensive gallery of old Checkmate brochures located in our Media Gallery
» Browse the various pictures in our Checkmate photo gallery
Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact support by clicking here or by using the"contact us" link at the bottom of the page.
Paint help on 89 Predictor
- Thread starter Adam L.
- Start date
cooperider
Well-known member
Congrats on the non-newbie status. If you are hesitant about the gel, go ahead and paint with what you know. Then find you another one of those Invaders and try gel on it.
I am actually thinking of using urathane paint on the '78 Predictor I have, just for fun.
I am actually thinking of using urathane paint on the '78 Predictor I have, just for fun.
cooperider
Well-known member
With gel the prep is quicker, but the final finishing takes longer. Not real expensive.
You prep to about 180-220 grit. Then after you you are done spraying you have to sand, starting at 320,400,600,1000,etc. Then Buff.
With regular paint you prep to like 400. Then after its sprayed, you could live with what you got, or finish with, 600,1000,1200,1500. Then Buff.
So its kind of a flip of the coin really.
You prep to about 180-220 grit. Then after you you are done spraying you have to sand, starting at 320,400,600,1000,etc. Then Buff.
With regular paint you prep to like 400. Then after its sprayed, you could live with what you got, or finish with, 600,1000,1200,1500. Then Buff.
So its kind of a flip of the coin really.
cooperider
Well-known member
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Adam Leland:
Hey 175,
I cant wait to hear how the primer and paint works for you. Which primer and paint did you go with? They suggested the 8000a/b primer, and the uraglow topside paint. Did you have that color mixed by them? The color sheet they sent me only had 30 colors. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>None of us can wait for that. We have been waiting forever for him to finish. The primer that he does have on it is about to have a birthday I think.
Hey 175,
I cant wait to hear how the primer and paint works for you. Which primer and paint did you go with? They suggested the 8000a/b primer, and the uraglow topside paint. Did you have that color mixed by them? The color sheet they sent me only had 30 colors. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>None of us can wait for that. We have been waiting forever for him to finish. The primer that he does have on it is about to have a birthday I think.
Adam,
I went with the following
Primer. BWUE1000 2 part epoxy primer 3 gals of part A and 3 gal of part B
Thinner/reducer 974 3 gal
Dewaxer 973 G 2 gal.
Paint.
Uraglow 2-part marine topside urethane enamel
BW9300K super jet black 1 gal
BW82526K Yellow 3 gal
Uraglow reducer BWUE4000 3 gal.
All this shipped to the door by the UPS guy that likes me so much for $810
I may have a bit to much paint, but I did not want to run out.
I did not have them mix the color. The shade of yellow was what I was looking for.
Coop? You are right on the money my man. Its birthday time for the primer thats on there. LOLOLOLOL.
I went with the following
Primer. BWUE1000 2 part epoxy primer 3 gals of part A and 3 gal of part B
Thinner/reducer 974 3 gal
Dewaxer 973 G 2 gal.
Paint.
Uraglow 2-part marine topside urethane enamel
BW9300K super jet black 1 gal
BW82526K Yellow 3 gal
Uraglow reducer BWUE4000 3 gal.
All this shipped to the door by the UPS guy that likes me so much for $810
I may have a bit to much paint, but I did not want to run out.
I did not have them mix the color. The shade of yellow was what I was looking for.
Coop? You are right on the money my man. Its birthday time for the primer thats on there. LOLOLOLOL.
cooperider
Well-known member
5 gallon bucket of Gel Coat: $275
4 gallon case of Duratec: $269
1 gallon of clear MEKP: $37.50
5 gallon of Acetone: $50
Then wetsand till you have no fingerprints. Then buff.
Gus, that boat has been upside down almost as long as it has been rightside up.
4 gallon case of Duratec: $269
1 gallon of clear MEKP: $37.50
5 gallon of Acetone: $50
Then wetsand till you have no fingerprints. Then buff.
Gus, that boat has been upside down almost as long as it has been rightside up.
Very true coop. Going to get the plastic today so I can tent the garage. There may be some epoxy primer getting shot real soon. Have just about given up on the buddy that was going to shoot it. Can't seem to get together at the right time. If he shoots it I will have less sanding. If I shoot it, more sanding. The outcome is the same.
I am planning on about 3 coats. It will all depend on how it lays down over the light grey primer.
Epoxy is REALLY strong smelling Gus. I sell lots of it at the store mostly for industrial work. We supply paint to entire complexes, warehouses, condos you name it. A lot of it goes for painting exposed steel beams or floors. And it can be really, really strong. Make sure you get a proper respirator with the proper filters. They should provide a data sheet with the paint. I sell 3M masks at the store. And their filters for epoxys are normally charcoal and it doesn't hurt to put the particulate filter over top of the charcoal cartridges. You should not be able to smell the paint if the mask is fitted properly. If you can, it might not be fitted correctly, or the charcoal filters could be worn out. Some of our painters have to change their filters more than once a day when they work with certain products.
Be careful and stay safe you guys!
Be careful and stay safe you guys!
A few respirator tips...
To make sure your mask fits...
Take off the cartridges. Put the mask on and get someone to cover the inlets where the air comes into the mask. On a 3M mask, their is a round hole on the left and right hand side of the mask. While your partner is covering the inlet holes, attempt to breathe in, and if you can get air, you have leaks in your mask. You need to check and see why the mask is leaking. You might be able to adjust it to eliminate the air leaks, or you may have the wrong size mask for your nose and face. If it's the wrong size, you need to go get yourself a new mask that fits.
If you end up in the market for a mask...try looking for a silicone mask. Silicone masks are softer and more flexible and adjust to the contours of your face more easily than a regular mask. That makes them more likely to fit without leaks. And because they're silicone, they can usually be cleaned easier as the paint doesn't stick to them as well.
-Lastly, as I mentioned in my previous post, make sure you have the proper cartridges. A respirator will have different cartridges for particulate and vapours. Many novice painters don't know that. For particulate you typically use the paper filters, these masks keep out dust. For vapour, you typically will use a charcoal cartridge with your mask. In some cases you can also put the particulate element over the charcoal cartridge which helps to keep the dust out of it and help prolong with charcoal filters which are a lot more expensive than the paper filters. Always check what you're spraying and see what you will need for the job. Better safe than sorry.
Always remember, if you can smell the paint, something is wrong. You have leaks or your filters are wearing or worn out. That's the time to change them or check the fit.
Happy painting!
To make sure your mask fits...
Take off the cartridges. Put the mask on and get someone to cover the inlets where the air comes into the mask. On a 3M mask, their is a round hole on the left and right hand side of the mask. While your partner is covering the inlet holes, attempt to breathe in, and if you can get air, you have leaks in your mask. You need to check and see why the mask is leaking. You might be able to adjust it to eliminate the air leaks, or you may have the wrong size mask for your nose and face. If it's the wrong size, you need to go get yourself a new mask that fits.
If you end up in the market for a mask...try looking for a silicone mask. Silicone masks are softer and more flexible and adjust to the contours of your face more easily than a regular mask. That makes them more likely to fit without leaks. And because they're silicone, they can usually be cleaned easier as the paint doesn't stick to them as well.
-Lastly, as I mentioned in my previous post, make sure you have the proper cartridges. A respirator will have different cartridges for particulate and vapours. Many novice painters don't know that. For particulate you typically use the paper filters, these masks keep out dust. For vapour, you typically will use a charcoal cartridge with your mask. In some cases you can also put the particulate element over the charcoal cartridge which helps to keep the dust out of it and help prolong with charcoal filters which are a lot more expensive than the paper filters. Always check what you're spraying and see what you will need for the job. Better safe than sorry.
Always remember, if you can smell the paint, something is wrong. You have leaks or your filters are wearing or worn out. That's the time to change them or check the fit.
Happy painting!
Great post Chris. I thought about that yeasterday when I was looking at the supplies I need for the job. Looked at the old resporator that I have had for years and decided I needed a new one.
I bought the 3m mask. Bought the cartridge for epoxy. A bit on the pricy side but well worth it.
How you described testing your mask is right on.
I bought the 3m mask. Bought the cartridge for epoxy. A bit on the pricy side but well worth it.
How you described testing your mask is right on.
Adam L.
Member
Good tips Chris,
I actually work in the Mold Remediation business and know all to well the importance of respirator's. I do not even allow my employees to have facial hair because it can cause leaks.
The shop that my business is in use to be an auto body place, so I am fortunate to have access to a spray booth which they so kindley left there. All the fans still work. Lucky me.
I actually work in the Mold Remediation business and know all to well the importance of respirator's. I do not even allow my employees to have facial hair because it can cause leaks.
The shop that my business is in use to be an auto body place, so I am fortunate to have access to a spray booth which they so kindley left there. All the fans still work. Lucky me.
A clean shaved face is preferred. Some of the guys I know also put some vaseline on their faces. I think that's partially to make the paint come off easier, but a few have also told me they think it helps the respirator seal a bit better around their face. I'm not sure if works, but it's something they do.
Sorry to spam up the thread. I work with epoxys a lot hence the slightly off topic posts.
Sorry to spam up the thread. I work with epoxys a lot hence the slightly off topic posts.
Checkmateking
New member
I am brand new to this site, and had to reply to this Overhaulin' page. It's great to see someone restoring a great boat like the predictor. I believe I have seen this boat before & the Eliminator. I am a resident of N.H. but cross the boarder into Maine for day trips. How long do you think a complete restoration will take? I did some major work on my 89 Sportfire a year ago, and now wish I had found this site. I might have tried some things myself rather than paying mucho $$$ for someone else to regel my boat. I had the same problem with Blisters. Did Checkmate ever do any type of recall on it? I started noticing it about 2 years after I bought it? Just wondering. Keep up the good work
