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Project "Wasted Income"

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Well Thank you very much HD27. As a matter of fact I dont sleep very much, damn insomia, LOL.
I have done quite a few other projects that I dont have listed and I still have several other irons in the fire. Sometimes I think I am seeing the light at the end of the tunnel but then the voices talk to me and says I need to buy it for a project. Damn voices!!!

I am getting ready to hook up the boat and take it to my parents to yank out the engine. I want to clean up the engine compartment and make sure all the balsa core is good back there. I also will be rebuilding the 2 side pieces that the battery and trim pump mounts to. This is all in prep for the shinny new engine that will call it home in a few weeks!
 
So i pulled the engine tonight. Took longer to fold the legs down on the crane than to lift it out. What I found did not supprise me but upset me a little. The wood motor mounts are completely broken loose from the floor. As soon as I got the motor out, they were just flopping in the wind. Also the balsa core on the flat spot is like melted butter! Oh well I guess I will be a pro at fiberglass repair.
 
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So i pulled the engine tonight. Took longer to fold the legs down on the crane than to lift it out. What I found did not supprise me but upset me a little. The wood motor mounts are completely broken loose from the floor. As soon as I got the motor out, they were just flopping in the wind. Also the balsa core on the flat spot is like melted butter! Oh well I guess I will be a pro at fiberglass repair.

this will give you the opportunity to build new engine beds out of oak
make sure on the core before you tear into that that it is not just a stain

good luck daren
 
this will give you the opportunity to build new engine beds out of oak
make sure on the core before you tear into that that it is not just a stain

good luck daren

That was my next question, what are they made out of? I wasn't sure if they were laminated plywood stacked together or ash or oak.

As for the core, I would say that it is, without a doubt, rotten since it was up front around the ski hole. I cleaned the engine bay with degreeser, muratic acid, and again with concrete degreeser in preperation for the new fabrication.

I am deff going to need luck on my side with this to make sure the engine is sitting in there the right way.
 
That was my next question, what are they made out of? I wasn't sure if they were laminated plywood stacked together or ash or oak.

As for the core, I would say that it is, without a doubt, rotten since it was up front around the ski hole. I cleaned the engine bay with degreeser, muratic acid, and again with concrete degreeser in preperation for the new fabrication.

I am deff going to need luck on my side with this to make sure the engine is sitting in there the right way.

the original logs were probably made of plywood laminate
daren
 
One question:
Can you tell me what you used to do the buffing? Aqua Buff??
It looks real good.

Thanks

3M super duty on wool compound pad
Meguiar's #49 oxidation remover on wool polishing pad
Meguiar's #44 color restorer on foam pad
3M finesse-it on a foam pad
Finished it all with a good wax buffed with a foam pad then a coat of hand rubbed wax.

Its very shiney but it still has a white haze if you look straight into it, kinda like a old headlight. Nothing I can do other than pull out the paint gun.
 
Wow, man, boat is lookin really good!! Glad to see that you are restoring it rather than junking it!! I'm lookin foward to seeing more of the progress!! Nice job, good luck with it!
 
Wow, man, boat is lookin really good!! Glad to see that you are restoring it rather than junking it!! I'm lookin foward to seeing more of the progress!! Nice job, good luck with it!

Thanks alot. Your boat is one of my favorite enchanters. Hopefully mine will look as good as your's one day soon. Hey is there any chance you can send me a couple interior and exterior pics of your boat? yellowfiero88@aol.com if you could! Thanks

Back to the boat I jumped back onto the extra board at work to pay for the new motor so I have done nothing but work for the last week. But I am thinking aboout going ahead and painting it and being done with it. Now is the time to do it with interior, motor, and outdrive as well as all the shinney stuff off it. All that would be left is to remove the windshield, fuel tank, and transom assembly then flip her over. I am happy with the shine but I am unhappy with the fact the gell coat still has a yellow cloudy look to it.

I am thinking about a bright green (kinda like the mopar green) and do some era correct graphics with a modern day twist. I also like the flake and thought about doing some heavy flake graphics back onto it. Or just a solid color with painted stripes to accent the factory lines. I want something that jumps out and makes a statement and can be seen from the other side of the lake, something bright!

I have also thought of a name for it that is nothing less than perfect ..... "Wasted Income"

What do you guys think about color and name?
 
Daren, I know you've got more experience with this than I do, Why Oak? I thought it was pretty susceptible to rot? I went with mahogany layered with epoxy / ground glass for the engine mount / bedding.

this will give you the opportunity to build new engine beds out of oak
make sure on the core before you tear into that that it is not just a stain

good luck daren
 
i'll have to research the rot issue
in wooden boat building engine logs or beds are oak
normally the keel is oak mainly for the strength\

i have helped restore a few from the 40's to the 60's all of them used oak very little rot if the bolts were bedded (sealed)

plywood is very strong if laminated but will rot also

hope this helps
i would try to get more indepth but its had to type while driving

daren
 
OMG on driving! Don't crash!

I did a fair amount of research on rot susceptibility and so forth and based on 1. mounts for engine need to have good compressive strength (should be hardwood encased in glass / epoxy), and 2. mahogany while expensive is much less susceptible to rot than oak and is strong. when I cut the tops of the pillars the mounts were screwed into, the wood was mush. They hadn't settled a lot, but water had obviously been running down the lag bolts over time. Since I overdo pretty much everything, was putting more weight and power (a lot) and it wasn't a lot of wood needed, I cleaned out the interior of the pillars and built it up from the bottom with one inch mahogany boards wraped in glass cloth, and layeyered with glass fiber thickened mas epoxy. After predrilling holes for lag bolts filled them with thinned epoxy, coated the lag screw threads with a little grease (a kind that won't dissolve in solvent, water or epoxy), and tightened it up. Probably overkill, but hopefully keep engine alignment more rigid over time, etc...
 
Well I just got motivated again for a minute and went out and checked the rot. What I found is the floor core is rotten only on the bottom. The engine mount towers are very solid, just broke away from the floor. I drilled into them and it looks like a solid wood that is yellowish color, maybe like pine. I think I am just goint to clean them up, fix to core and glass it all back together.

I am thinking about drilling into the transom at the bottom to check for water then glass it back over when done. It feals very solid and seems dry but I think now is the time to check it all out as repairs would be easiest now. What do you guys think? Good ideal or opening up a can of worms?:confused:

As for the motor, machining has started. I picked up the heads and started porting and polishing them as well as making them match the intake and exhaust manifolds. As soon as I am done, they go back and the finish machine work will be completed and the engine will be assembled to a long block ready for my paint and final assembly. I will post pics of some of the new toys I have bought later tonight!
 
Well the transom is dry as a bone :D

Been working extra at work to buy more new toys!
First a boat is no good without a safe trailer to get it to the lake. SO..... I bought a tandom axle trailer to haul it. I am not a fan of how a single axle rides and if a tire was to blow out, it could be a bad day. Plus I was looking for something with brakes as I dont ever think anything over 1500# sould not have them. Here is what I found. A old tandom beat up trailer with hydrolic surge drums. Frame is great shapeand its main frame is the same size as my single axle. I will need to extend the tounge about 3' to make it perfect.
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When I got it home, I fired up liquid wrench and took off the damaged fenders,tounge jack, and the bunks. I Decided to scrap the drums and go with disc also so I bought a complete setup from Tie Down Engineering. It looks to be a simple install and a very nice setup. I also bought new steel fenders, tounge jack, all LED lights for it. I am going to hammer it out next week after I get the bottom painted......... Oh wait a minute........ BOTTOM PAINTED?????????????

Yep, just wasnt happy with leaving the haze on the finish so I had to do it!
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I got it flipped over last week. I took a scraper and scraped all the salt water herpies off the bottom (took 2 1/2 damn hours might I add:irked:). I got the front bow hook reglassed in and repaired all the scratches, gouges, and whatever else there was with glass and resin. I am painting the bottom up to the flake with Interlux VC performance Epoxy. It came well recomended for its teflon added, anti fouling, and general durability properties.
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Here is some of the motor toys that I have got so far. And yes the air filter element is getting thrown away and I am going to fab up a fresh air system with mandral bent tube. It will have the factory flame arestor installed inside it. Well back to work to make mo money.

What do you guys think??
 
Well I talked to the salesman and the dealer about the paint and they both said it was anti fouling but its not! good thing they are the ones selling the product. As a matter of fact the salesman knew little about the product and was less than helpfull with his input.

It is STAIN resistant, has dupont teflon, and is recomended for underwater applications! Anyway I was very nervous about how I was reading about preping the surface. "Sand with 80 grit, wipe down, then apply". LOL, 80 GRIT?!! I know what paint jobs look like with 80 grit scratches in them. But, I did what the MSDS told me to do and it came out very nice. The first coat I misted on as I do with all my paints so that it would seal against fish eyes and provide a tack coat for the rest of the coats. After that dried, I started hammering it on. I sprayed a total of 2 sprayable gallons on it (1 gallon of paint, 1 gallon of hardner) I am happy with how it turned out. It is way more than what I needed but I wanted a thick coating that will last for years to come. Directions state to buff 12-24 hours after final coat is applied. I waited about 20 hours to start and i think it would be easier to sand and buff a rock! this stuff is great! I got her shined all up and ready for some color to be added to the mix. The rest should be fun as I am going to use base coat/clear coat and it might just be a somewhat loud paint job!
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Well I stopped into my engine builders today to check on how its going. The motor's machine work is now complete. The new pistons came in the mail as are the ARP bolt kit, and bearing kit. I walked in right as he was finishing turning the crank so I got to watch that! I am going to have him built the short block for me since I have so much on my plate right now. He is going to assemble it maybe this week if not, then early next week. From there I will paint it and do the final assembly. I am still waiting on my buddy to finish the head work for me but at least I can get a start on the engine. I am so excited about getting this done. Even if there is a foot of snow on the ground, I am going to have it in the water this year!!
 
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