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Ran my Verado 400r

kct11 said:
Another thing that might be holding you back is the lower unit and running high. The sportys are desinged to run at the surface and make drag any other way. That hull has no pad and its heavy, so I dont think it will work with a setup like the 2100. Mine likes to run well under the "pad", and if I get any were near the surface it slows down or looses bite. I think the hot setup would be a torque master type lower on the 400r when put on a 2400.
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I agree, in part, best speed i have gotten so far is with Sporty at 1" below when i take it to 0 there is no noticeable speed increase but more steering input is needed to try & keep her on her half pad :) my Bravo 24 is out of her league running that high, i'll need to try some surfacing props soon. Trim response with the Sport Master is superb compared with the std gear case of the 300, i'm able to put the bow where i need for varying sea conditions & hold it there which is nice even when i have my kids or friends riding in the bow, porpoising is virtually eliminated which with the 300 it wasn't always possible, i don't think the Torque Master would fair any better.
 
I have only had a sporty on my 2400 one time, i cant remeber how it ran. I think there is a reason wildman uses a torqemaster on the 2400 over a sporty. I know thats a new design so maybe it runs better a little deeper. The old sportmaster don t care for water going over the top of the bullet. I can really feel the it on my air entrapment hull, water over the top pulls it deeper into the water when running the motor flat
 
I have seen reports of the 400 being quite stout compared to the 300xs, but those were air entrapment hulls.
 
kct11 said:
Another thing that might be holding you back is the lower unit and running high. The sportys are desinged to run at the surface and make drag any other way. That hull has no pad and its heavy, so I dont think it will work with a setup like the 2100. Mine likes to run well under the "pad", and if I get any were near the surface it slows down or looses bite. I think the hot setup would be a torque master type lower on the 400r when put on a 2400.
Click to expand...

My 2400 has a pad not sure why most think otherwise. Not as large as my 1850 but it does have one. This is not just a V bottom hull on the pulsares. Also the sportys are for speeds in excess of 80mph.
 
Hayabusa said:
I agree, in part, best speed i have gotten so far is with Sporty at 1" below when i take it to 0 there is no noticeable speed increase but more steering input is needed to try & keep her on her half pad :) my Bravo 24 is out of her league running that high, i'll need to try some surfacing props soon. Trim response with the Sport Master is superb compared with the std gear case of the 300, i'm able to put the bow where i need for varying sea conditions & hold it there which is nice even when i have my kids or friends riding in the bow, porpoising is virtually eliminated which with the 300 it wasn't always possible, i don't think the Torque Master would fair any better.
Click to expand...

The bravo is a surfacing propeller. You may need a taller pitch. Doing the math the best you can see out of the pitch your running will be 77-78mph @ 10-11% slip.
 
kct11 said:
I have only had a sporty on my 2400 one time, i cant remeber how it ran. I think there is a reason wildman uses a torqemaster on the 2400 over a sporty. I know thats a new design so maybe it runs better a little deeper. The old sportmaster don t care for water going over the top of the bullet. I can really feel the it on my air entrapment hull, water over the top pulls it deeper into the water when running the motor flat
Click to expand...

Probably why he uses a TM is the trophys and / or tempests/rev4 dont like to surface or run a high x dim on the 2400's.
 
I ran my rev 4 above the pad 1 1/2 on my 2100. I dont think that hull will like anything above the pad as it need a lot of lift and or bite. A bblades blaster would be one to try at the surface on it.
 
kct11 said:
I ran my rev 4 above the pad 1 1/2 on my 2100. I dont think that hull will like anything above the pad as it need a lot of lift and or bite. A bblades blaster would be one to try at the surface on it.
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All the more reason to use a large diameter prop. The blaster is only 14.75" in diameter. Talked to Brett about that already and he feels the bravo was best for this setup.
 
He makes a 15 also and it will have more blade then any 15 through hub prop. I have a bravo1 also so I can set them side by side for comparison. I like them both on my 21 tunnel hull. He has a trial plan so its under $100 to give it a try. A sporty is made to run at the surface. I think the tm and 80 is more of a generalize area. I have a buddy that runs one 85-86 with out problems close to the surface on a large flat pad bullet bass boat with out a issue. The tm has less resistance so it runs deeper more efficiently then the sports master. Most guys running 80+ are at the surface anyway.
 
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I can run my 15 blaster about a 1/2 higher then my bravo 1 on my tunnel hull. So which one has more bite in that case? Thats the thing about fluid couplers...they are a pain in the ass!
 
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My apologies, the blaster is 14 3/4 or 14 1/2 from him. I have the larger one, I knew there were 2 diameters. Its a bad ass prop, its my favorite. I wish I could try it on the 2400, but all my tunnel props are lefthand so I can't.

The 2400 would be much more of a "speed boat" with a nice 8-10 wide flat pad. I think its limited with out one. If you dont think so look at the bottom of any fast v bottom boat.
 
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kct11 said:
My apologies, the blaster is 14 3/4 or 14 1/2 from him. I have the larger one, I knew there were 2 diameters. Its a bad ass prop, its my favorite. I wish I could try it on the 2400, but all my tunnel props are lefthand so I can't.

The 2400 would be much more of a "speed boat" with a nice 8-10 wide flat pad. I think its limited with out one. If you dont think so look at the bottom of any fast v bottom boat.
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I think doing that wide of a pad in a stepped config would be cool. This way you could maintain the wave cutting ability this hull has up front and transition into the pad via the step.

The problem I had with the smaller diameter props on the Verado was there was too much midrange slip due to the torque of this motor which in turn degraded the overall performance.
 
That Is so true. The hull needs something to get up on. Right now its got noting so the prop needs to be deep to make up for any natural lift. I so wanted them to pop a plug in the mold for me.

I totally agree on the large prop, no matter where its run at.
 
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Also noticed & wondering why Mercury would leave a gap of about an 1/8" between the guide plates on the gear case & the Delrin bearings, thats alot of play, thought it would tighter. I'd like to look at a 350 SCI & see if it has that gap, being the 1st motor to come out with the gide plates.
 
jjg said:
The bravo is a surfacing propeller. You may need a taller pitch. Doing the math the best you can see out of the pitch your running will be 77-78mph @ 10-11% slip.
Click to expand...

Should have said over hub exhaust, yes the Bravo is considered to work as a surfacing prop.
 
kct11 said:
I can run my blaster about a 1/2 higher then my bravo 1 on my tunnel hull
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I did talk with Brett at BBlades & he suggested i try the Blaster 26" so why not, who am i to argue with one of the best & with their great test program......bring one on!
 
Its a awesome prop....I predict smiles. Are you gonna buy it off the bat or get it on the test program first?
 
Little over 20 hrs on the 400 now & took it out yesterday early for some running with a buddy settled in at 78 mph & 6800 rpm with my 24 Bravo at 1" below, best i've been able to do on & off for the past 5 hrs that i've put on the 400, got a couple of diferent props coming my way to test & see if i can do any better, but what i like best of this Merc/Check combo is that i can run with 4 on board, gear & beer :) + 3/4 fuel on board at 70 mph & 6300 rpm.....thats a blast :thumb:
 
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