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Stereos & Batteries - Read before buying.

So you experts feel free to chime in when necessary.


Your own words:lol: and we do and you turn BEOTCH, Were done with you:D I don't think this is a good place for you, maybe try a gayliner site.
 
Some great info on both sides. A little less of the name calling would be nice.
What I have found in MY years of building and installing stereo equipment can be compared to this question. "What type of oil is best?" or What is better Ford, chevy or dodge. This will open all kinds of opinions and comments. Audio is the same way. Different strokes for different folks.
Thanks to both for providing input on both sides. These are opinions and everyone has one. Its not personal unless people make it personal.
 
Not sure what really happened here while I was attending to the rest of my life, but WWWOOOWWWW!!! There was some good info and multiple good suggestions for a while there. SSHHHEEEEESSHH!!!
 
All true, and I wanna apologize for my part. Maybe I didnt exercise the best tact in the my replies. I tried to delete my recent messages, but could only delete the last one. Moderators, feel free to eliminate the argumentative stuff. It's apples to oranges, and everyone will have different opinions. Bottom line is the guy took the time to type all that when he didnt have to. It didnt have to turn emotional, but we all know these things often do. No need to alienate an actual contributing member. Maybe if ThaPhillips is still checking the thread, we could amend a few things in his original posts and make this an audio sticky. Might avoid alot of questions.
 
Heat unit output in watts question? My new Clarion CMD6 head is advertised as 200 RMS watts for 4 chanels. I figure it's just advertising and have wondered what is the "real world" output. BTW, it looks like they all advertise outputs near the 200w rating?

thanks
 
200 w = 50x4
This is peak rateing, You can expect half of that= 25x4 approx. for the rms.
So to answer your Q, your more relistically pushing a 100 watts.
The more top end units will push a little more then the cheaper ones. They can push up to 2/3rds the peak rating.
 
I am using an Alpine CDA-9886 head unit (Ebay $100) Alpine SPS-609 6x9's (Ebay $40) Kenwood KAC-8104 amp (Craigslist $45) 12" JL W1 in a store bought .75 CF enclosure.

I have less than 200 bucks in a headunit, speakers and an amp. Other that the woofer and box new I got everything dirt cheap and in great condition. Its in a boat. You can see my headunit and my 6x9's if you look. Its sounds pretty damn good for a bargain basement entry level setup.

Best part is went it gets wet and/or ruined I can throw it away and not be at a total lost.

:cheers: My 2 cents
 
I have a Sony marine raido a Boston Acoustics amp and a 10" Bazooka tube,2 6x9 Kickers. Does fine for me. The best thing I put on the boat is a on board battery maintainer. Get home plug it in and when I go back out I have volts up the wazooo. Bout 30 bucks at wally world. The kicker is my mota does,nt charge the battery! I will get this fixed soon.

My 2 cents.
 
RCA's are used to hook up amps, eq's etc. They send the signal out just as the speaker wires do. Just another way to hook up components.


EDIT: Just looked up what your dealing with. You have a lot of options with that receiver. If you say what your doing with it you can get better help.
 
Most all head units will have fixed audio outs. It simply means the output voltage (or level) remains constant. You adjust the volume simply by turning up the volume on the head unit.

Variable audio outputs are much more common on TV's. with a variable audio output the output signal increases or decreases with the volume level of the TV. In other wors if you have your TV hooked up to a stereo or home theater receiver, the overall volume is affected by the TV's volume setting. So with the TV volume set at 50% and the receiver volume set at a given volume you can adjust the volume (level) with the TV volume control or the receiver volume control.

Again, you don't have that so don't worry about it.:rof:
 
I have a Sony marine raido a Boston Acoustics amp and a 10" Bazooka tube,2 6x9 Kickers. Does fine for me. The best thing I put on the boat is a on board battery maintainer. Get home plug it in and when I go back out I have volts up the wazooo. Bout 30 bucks at wally world. The kicker is my mota does,nt charge the battery! I will get this fixed soon.

My 2 cents.

Thats what I did with mine, put an onboard charging sys. in. Just back it into the garage when I was done. Take the plug from the splashwell pull it to the outlet. Bam 2 seconds on, 2 seconds off and put away!
I even installed alittle converter to charge up my video batt or run cheesy christmas lights or something!
 
I also have a 2 bank charger with a y on it. When I'm docked overnight I can run the charger for the boat lighting and a fan etc. When at home its always pluged into the house and always have fresh batterys.
 
I use a 750ma float charger between two batteries. This will be the first year I am trying this. I have a starting battery and deep cycle. One obviously to start and the other I have only my amp connected. I am hoping that leaving it on the trickle charger when not in use and the bit of charge from the outboard while using I will be able to maintain a good charge. Nothing worse then a dead battery.
 
I just can't believe I missed out on the stereo story. Way cool how it went up in smoke. I think that the offer of amends was stand up though. I did notice some rather vague applications of Ohm's Law. Remember, if you raise voltage, you lower current, at least on this planet. Does anyone remember back when sound reproduction was analog like your ear hears, versus the digital stuff we now experience? Does this make me an arguementative flamer? Oh yeah, I've got a Kraco MPX with a KE-3 equalizer?! With some 6 by 9 Jensens:shakehead: Got foil wrapped around the fuses just in case. Can't have any interuption of input. I'm just sayin
 
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