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Transom plate?

BADBK

Well-known member
Anyone put one on a Pulsare? All these pics/stories of rotten/rotting transoms make me wonder if a 1/4-1/2" transom plate would help protect it? Seems my jack plate is digging in the gel coat a bit on the bottom corners and better to fix things before it's too late? Mine is sealed up good and all... but how far can the j/p dig in before it's definitely not welcome anymore?

:popcorn:
 
Anyone put one on a Pulsare? All these pics/stories of rotten/rotting transoms make me wonder if a 1/4-1/2" transom plate would help protect it? Seems my jack plate is digging in the gel coat a bit on the bottom corners and better to fix things before it's too late? Mine is sealed up good and all... but how far can the j/p dig in before it's definitely not welcome anymore?

:popcorn:

i have one on the starflite- 1/4":thumb:
 
i have one on the starflite- 1/4":thumb:

Did it seem to displace the weight better or not really noticeable? I'm just concerned with the sharp edges on the bottom of the jackplate it may keep diggin in and do extensive damage. Always wondered why the edges aren't slightly beveled anyway.
 
Cool. I'm gonna see if some of my old sheetmetal buddies will hook me up with a nice 1/4" 6061 T6 Aluminum plate with custom dimensions and some new backing plates for inside the splash well.
 
I have a 1/4 in one on my Trimate II and a 6 in jack plate , had it bent so it goes over the transom and I have a 2nd plate on the inside top edge in the splash well:thumb: ( Insurance is a good thing )
 
I made one for the playmate as well. 1/4" 6061 aluminum. I think it works well to protect the transom and would not set up a outboard without one.
 
My Pulsare had what looked like a factory Stainless Steel plate on the back in between the jack plate and transom. I've heard of some boats leaving the factory with and without, don't know why. You don't need to go 1/4" thick though, that's overkill. SS transom plates are usually about 1/16" thick and the aluminum ones about 1/8" thick.
 
My Pulsare had what looked like a factory Stainless Steel plate on the back in between the jack plate and transom. I've heard of some boats leaving the factory with and without, don't know why. You don't need to go 1/4" thick though, that's overkill. SS transom plates are usually about 1/16" thick and the aluminum ones about 1/8" thick.

Agreed, the only reason you need a plate that thick is if you are looking for some extra setback.:D

HD
 
transome plate

I had a 1/8th" stainless plate made with a bend at the top so it covered the top of the transome Worked great. I have a 17' Panther( V-Mate2 splash) with a 6" jackplate and a 89 225 Omc looper.I have had the plate on for 4 years and no stress cracks at all. My boat came with an 1/8th " galvonized metal plate.

Steve
 
Guess I never updated this thread, but I got some 1/4" 6061 T6 from a local shop - stuff's expensive!!

Made a plate for the rear of transom, plus 2 big plates inside splashwell and 4 plates, one for each bolt... I measured the new plate off of my 5.5" CMC plate which apparently is signifigantly smaller than my 10" TH HiJacker... if I did it again I'd make it a bit bigger, but it still works pretty well. The inside is BEEFED pretty good, 2 big 1/4" plates plus the extra 1/4" plates under the bolt heads.

It actually contours perfectly up top, not short by any means...
transomplate.jpg

trasomplate2.jpg

Inside.
transomplate3.jpg

Used a TON of sealant, everything looks good, ready to rock and roll! Overall I have about $200 into the new plates, well worth the piece of mind.
 
I hade one made up for my V-mate II. It was made out of 3/16th aluminum, was bent to go over the top of the transom and into the splash well. Actually one angle was bent and the other welded, but once the weld was cleaned up it looked perfect. It cost me 50 bucks and a 6 pack to my brother in law.

jackplate007.jpg
 
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