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540 freshin up "I hope"

Mr. Slingblade.
I have enjoyed watching your build thread from the start.
Im realy impressed with your work and looking forward to see whats next.
Also wondering if you still have the 750dp carb and would be wanting to
sell it. I live in south east Iowa, maybe not all that far from you.
PM me a phone # let me know.
Thank you.
 
Well I am back on the motor. Bob has me hooked up on a camshaft. I have one thing I could use some help on. The water dumps into the exhaust about 9 inches from the elbow out 2 small holes in the pipe. I need to get that away from the elbow. I was thinking of installing 2 tubes inside the pipe welded to the outlets that would drop the water in just after the big hose connection . But it would be simpler to weld the two holes shut in the pipe and add a fitting and run the water on the outside of the pipe and back in after the Big hose connection. Any thought and info would be great.
I am doing this to reduce the chance of water reversion with such a large camshaft.
 
I would weld the holes up and dump it off outside the jacket with a hose. There is a lot of pulse and vibration in that large tube and I would hate to see a small metal tube break off from fatigue.

What exhaust do you have again? If you have stainless risers tube it might be better to just send them to the manufacturer and have them extended to a full dry tail. If I can't find a deal on a set of good headers with dry tails I am going to send my EMI's in to have that done. Would be like the older Gil offshore dry risers then.
 
Not to keen on running inside ether .I would have to build a bracket to hold the .Just to much sh&t inside the pipe. I don't see a problem of running out side. I wont have a hot spot at the hose connection? Don't want to burn my baby.
 
The hot spot is why I say you should just extend your pipes to full dry through transom. Remove your tips, cut larger holes and add the silicone/stainless gaskets/trim and shove the riser through. Simple and very reliable. If you want to keep the rubber hose in there, you will need to have water introduced before the rubber to keep it cool. Im not even sure if pure silicone tubing could withstand the temps. Silicone is usually good until around 600*F.

IMG00033-20100913-213000001.jpg
 
after playing with my M3 procharger set up for a while now...can tell you this...with what you are spending I suggest you can the dual carbs and box now...a huge pain in the a$$, run a blow thru EFI that is tunable, building my own as we speak...now you can get the carb deal to work..I did...the box is horrible, performance wise and service wise !!! also with a computer setup you will be able to tune the timing curve(very important) this thing is going to make stupid power...way more than the drive or the boat may like !!!! good luck Rob
 
You don't want those. Injected means that the headers are single wall pipe. There are little nozzles in the bottom of each primary to spray water directly into the exhaust stream. A jacketed header means that it is double wall construction with water flowing through the annulus space leaving the inside where exhaust flows completely dry. Injected headers are mostly for jet motors that are WOT most of the time. They will cause reversion and possibly drain water into your engine. You want a nice set of CMI's or Stellings if you want to go full dry. Check out Lightning headers, they are powdercoated steel and are actually a decent price. I hear they hold up quite well in fresh water environments. CP performance sells them.
 
ezstriper said:
after playing with my M3 procharger set up for a while now...can tell you this...with what you are spending I suggest you can the dual carbs and box now...a huge pain in the a$$, run a blow thru EFI that is tunable, building my own as we speak...now you can get the carb deal to work..I did...the box is horrible, performance wise and service wise !!! also with a computer setup you will be able to tune the timing curve(very important) this thing is going to make stupid power...way more than the drive or the boat may like !!!! good luck Rob
Click to expand...

Or driver.
I am not looking to go that fast. I like to think of my little red boat as a hot rod or better yet T bucket . Big blow stupid motor in a car that I would not go over 60 mph in.
I would like to upgrade the drive next winter. I have no idea what to choose for a out drive.
As far as the carbs being a problem . I will be going to Big Stuff EFI sometime this year. I want to get the motor in and going for this year.
 
Now what kind of speed are you thinking ?? should run 90...handling ??? that will be the question...the EFI will help mainly with low speed..docking and mid range economy...
 
Is that a pad or true v? I'd say it'll chine walk at some point. I know mines not an enforcer but around 80 with a lot of trim it shakes pretty good.
 
how fast was it with just the 540..should have been upper 70's...does it have full hyd steering ? I can run low 80's in my 253 with a stock 500hp with a M3 5-6 psi...stock 28p bravo 1 no tuning...
 
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