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73 MX-16 resto/mod, 1 broke high school teacher
- Thread starter redstrat
- Start date
- Status
Just kidding, that my friend is a fantastic paint job!!
Ramifications
Well-known member
Awesome! I really like the colors and design
redstrat
Well-known member
I teach music. I think I'm going to paint a fender stratocaster guitar to match the boat. Thanks for your kind words. I'm going to sit down and review what i've learned from this phase of the build. I'll post my thoughts for those who are interested. Now I can start to focus on the interior. I used to do that for a living. Thanks again, Mark
redstrat
Well-known member
Thanks, But it doesn't hold a candle to your paint scheme. I don't know how you did such a nice job fogging in those panels, and that hood you made is a pure work of art.
redstrat
Well-known member
Thank you Sammie, I came up with the idea for my paint scheme after spending hours looking at vintage photos that you and others have taken the time to post. Thank you for that. Mark
slingblade
Well-known member
looks great 
redstrat
Well-known member
Thanks,that sounds fine. I'm not sure what should be deleted. Any suggestions you have with the editing will be appreciated. Thanks
Normally I'll take out the chatter and or stuff that doesn't pertain to the rebuild. Then your thread will look like a step by step tutorial/instructional build. Much easier to read if a person is looking for information, basically a condensed version.
redstrat
Well-known member
lessons learned
I thought I would write a bit about what I learned from this project so far. I guess it's the teacher in me. Forgive me if it rubs some of you the wrong way. Anyway, here goes. First I want to say that this is my first boat restoration and I still have more questions than answers. It is also the first time I've worked with fiberglass. I painted a couple of cars 20 years ago but when I took out my old Accuspray hvlp gun and turbine, I wasn't sure it was still in working order.
Algrip: I chose algrip because most opinions were saying that next to gelcoat this is the toughest stuff. I hope that's the case. The boat had been painted twice so it seemed that gelcoat was not an option. I printed the product data sheets, put them in a folder with receipts and referred to them often. The first problem I had was shooting the trailer outside. I finished by 3pm. But that didn't allow enough time for the paint to cure before the evening dew settled on it. I had to re-sand a shoot it again. On the positive side, I decided I didn't like the stock color orange so I mixed in the off white until I got what I wanted. In the end I'm glad that first attempt was a failure. This stuff is toxic, so I tried to shoot as much as I could in the open air. Unfortunately it seems to attract dust and bugs. If I spray algrip again I will invest the time and money in some type of an enclosure and a fresh air mask. I thought about renting a booth but it just didn't seem practical. I would have liked to bury the stripes in clear, but they tell me that applying clear over white will only dull the shine. I had no issues with fish-eye until I started shooting the top-coat on the deck. I thought it was the tack rag that I had purchased at my local hardware store. Algrip makes their own tack rag but I thought a tack rag is a tack rag. Maybe not
I did silicone the deck to the hull before I started painting so maybe there was some contamination. Even though I didn't find it when I shot the epoxy primer. In hign sight I would wait until after paint to be safe. The algrip fairing compound is great stuff but it takes a good 17 hours before you can sand it. You have to epoxy prime before and after applying so it gets expensive and time consuming, but it sands out well with no pinholes. I used it exclusively on the hull. This stuff really shines and seems pretty tough. I got some on my fingernail two weeks ago and it's still there. This boat wont win any awards for best paint. But hopefully it will service well for many years to come. As far as stripes go, I learned that you need to spend money on good plastic tape, and buy enough to practice, especially on curved lines. Here is a pic of my gun etc. I wish I had covered my table with paper. I pulled this table out of the trash and it has been invaluable. It's my movable work bench. I hope this is helpful. Thanks to all of you for your encouraging words. I've been playing in bands all my life and musicians are not nearly as supportive as boaters. Thanks P.S. The book in the pic and the west marine product guide helped a lot
I thought I would write a bit about what I learned from this project so far. I guess it's the teacher in me. Forgive me if it rubs some of you the wrong way. Anyway, here goes. First I want to say that this is my first boat restoration and I still have more questions than answers. It is also the first time I've worked with fiberglass. I painted a couple of cars 20 years ago but when I took out my old Accuspray hvlp gun and turbine, I wasn't sure it was still in working order.
Algrip: I chose algrip because most opinions were saying that next to gelcoat this is the toughest stuff. I hope that's the case. The boat had been painted twice so it seemed that gelcoat was not an option. I printed the product data sheets, put them in a folder with receipts and referred to them often. The first problem I had was shooting the trailer outside. I finished by 3pm. But that didn't allow enough time for the paint to cure before the evening dew settled on it. I had to re-sand a shoot it again. On the positive side, I decided I didn't like the stock color orange so I mixed in the off white until I got what I wanted. In the end I'm glad that first attempt was a failure. This stuff is toxic, so I tried to shoot as much as I could in the open air. Unfortunately it seems to attract dust and bugs. If I spray algrip again I will invest the time and money in some type of an enclosure and a fresh air mask. I thought about renting a booth but it just didn't seem practical. I would have liked to bury the stripes in clear, but they tell me that applying clear over white will only dull the shine. I had no issues with fish-eye until I started shooting the top-coat on the deck. I thought it was the tack rag that I had purchased at my local hardware store. Algrip makes their own tack rag but I thought a tack rag is a tack rag. Maybe not
I did silicone the deck to the hull before I started painting so maybe there was some contamination. Even though I didn't find it when I shot the epoxy primer. In hign sight I would wait until after paint to be safe. The algrip fairing compound is great stuff but it takes a good 17 hours before you can sand it. You have to epoxy prime before and after applying so it gets expensive and time consuming, but it sands out well with no pinholes. I used it exclusively on the hull. This stuff really shines and seems pretty tough. I got some on my fingernail two weeks ago and it's still there. This boat wont win any awards for best paint. But hopefully it will service well for many years to come. As far as stripes go, I learned that you need to spend money on good plastic tape, and buy enough to practice, especially on curved lines. Here is a pic of my gun etc. I wish I had covered my table with paper. I pulled this table out of the trash and it has been invaluable. It's my movable work bench. I hope this is helpful. Thanks to all of you for your encouraging words. I've been playing in bands all my life and musicians are not nearly as supportive as boaters. Thanks P.S. The book in the pic and the west marine product guide helped a lot
redstrat
Well-known member
I used a self contained turbine that pushes heated air through a garden sized hose. There is no adjustment for air pressure. The gun has air and fluid adjustments. I just fiddled with it till it felt right. I bought it from Eastwood 20 years ago. I think they still make similar units. The gun has a .036 tip.Great write up!Could you give some details into what air pressure was used, what worked as far spraying etc? I do realize different paints yield different results, so probably general info would be good.
brian769
Active member
Ta Da!!! I went into my shop at 5AM this morning and pulled tape and unwrapped my completed paint job. I wouldn't park it next to a Mitcher T job, but overall I'm pleased. My goal was to get the paint work finished before the cold weather crept in. SUCCESS! Thanks to all of you that have encouraged me.
WOW man! really nice job on everything! And I thought I was going over board..?!! Really like the clean lines on the paint..! Hate it when people do too much ... I like the, "less is more look" for sure..!! Especially with smaller boats like ours... Should get mine back from the paint shop next week... It's gonna be like Christmas, putting everything back together..!
redstrat
Well-known member
Hi all, figured I would put up a couple of progress pictures. The pair of seats I started with, I was told, are out of a Baja. But I haven't been able to find any old pics with these seats. Here is a shot with the cushions off.
I copied the design to 1/4" and 1/2" plywood. I tacked it together with finish nails leaving the heads out about 1/4" The sides on the original bow out so I cut a stick to push the sides out, epoxied it all together, then pulled out all the nails. The plywood is partially painted because I scavenged out of the dumpster at work. They feel stronger than the original. I will sand them and coat them entirely with epoxy before upholstery. Here is a shot of the back seat console, mocked up, with integrated cooler and pull out cup holders. This boat will be a 4 seater. I got a pair of drawer type double cup holders out of Chrysler mini vans.
Here is a shot of the fabric swatches.
I haven't talked about the motor much. I have 3 Force 125s. I picked the cleanest block, opened up the bypass ports and had it diamond honed .020 over. I have new forged pistons and I'll start reassembly when it gets to cold to work in my open shop. I hang plastic in one corner when the snow fly s.
In this last shot you can see a couple of nicks where the broken rings spit through the exhaust port in it's former life. HOPEFULLY that wont happen again.
I copied the design to 1/4" and 1/2" plywood. I tacked it together with finish nails leaving the heads out about 1/4" The sides on the original bow out so I cut a stick to push the sides out, epoxied it all together, then pulled out all the nails. The plywood is partially painted because I scavenged out of the dumpster at work. They feel stronger than the original. I will sand them and coat them entirely with epoxy before upholstery. Here is a shot of the back seat console, mocked up, with integrated cooler and pull out cup holders. This boat will be a 4 seater. I got a pair of drawer type double cup holders out of Chrysler mini vans.
Here is a shot of the fabric swatches.
I haven't talked about the motor much. I have 3 Force 125s. I picked the cleanest block, opened up the bypass ports and had it diamond honed .020 over. I have new forged pistons and I'll start reassembly when it gets to cold to work in my open shop. I hang plastic in one corner when the snow fly s.
In this last shot you can see a couple of nicks where the broken rings spit through the exhaust port in it's former life. HOPEFULLY that wont happen again.
redstrat
Well-known member
Here's an update. Mild 3 day weekend so I got to work. Putting two bucket seats in the back, I needed a panel behind them. Trying to make it as neat as I could, I devised a way to make the back panel conform to the curves in the corners and meet the side panels. I used some waxy cardboard to make the curve and glassed over it.
Here is the way the back seat and console are shaping up. The center cooler cover will be removable to lift the cooler out and have a access to the fuel tank. Retractable cup holder is under the cooler. Everything will get covered with epoxy and closed cell foam before upholstery. The cooler cover will recess into the back panel. That's all for now folks
Here is the way the back seat and console are shaping up. The center cooler cover will be removable to lift the cooler out and have a access to the fuel tank. Retractable cup holder is under the cooler. Everything will get covered with epoxy and closed cell foam before upholstery. The cooler cover will recess into the back panel. That's all for now folks
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