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73 MX-16 resto/mod, 1 broke high school teacher

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Jetmate said:
I like the speaker enclosures. Are you going to port them to relieve the back pressure. Some glass insulation may help the sound quality also.
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Thanks, Yes I'll port them and I'm planning to cover them with closed cell foam.
 
Making some progress on the side panels. I bolted the speaker enclosure and control box on the right side panel using #6 tapered screws with #10 washers so they would sit down fairly flush. After I got everything to fit, I removed the back panels and replaced the nuts to hold the screws in place. I then scuffed up the heads with the DA. Then I mixed up some epoxy with cabosil, gobbed up the screw heads and laid squares of fiberglass tape over them. I then mixed some straight epoxy and coated the panel. As long as I don't tighten them like a gorilla everthing should hold.The clamps are holding strips of 1/2" ply I glued to the back where I needed extra strength. Once I cover the panel with closed cell foam there will be bumps where the screw heads are. I can easily sand the foam flat, cover with vinyl, and we'll never see them... I hope. My goal is to complete the interior with no visible attachments. :cheers:
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slow progress

All of my funds went toward the family X-mas so progress is slow right now. I did get my splash well boot installed. Also, I made this lower unit tester to sort out the 4 lower units I have bartered upholstery services for (3 good 1 needs seals) Most of you have probably seen home made testers before. This one cost me $12 in parts and about 1 1/2 hrs to get it together and working right. :cheers:
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I'll take some side panel pics this weekend. Also, you can see that under the cup holder there is about a 1/2" gap between the seat platform and the floor. My thought is to keep any water moving toward the bilge. I also did this under the front seat platform. I've done several boat interiors where moisture gets trapped around the seat mounts and that is where rot is most severe. I am planning to epoxy snap studs to the floor so that the carpet will be bound and snap in. This way I can take it out and let it dry. I'll only glue the carpet behind the side panels. I also have those same gauges. I put the speedo in the dash hoping it will work. The tach will not work for my Chrysler/Force.:thumb:
 
redstrat said:
I'll take some side panel pics this weekend. Also, you can see that under the cup holder there is about a 1/2" gap between the seat platform and the floor. My thought is to keep any water moving toward the bilge. I also did this under the front seat platform. I've done several boat interiors where moisture gets trapped around the seat mounts and that is where rot is most severe. I am planning to epoxy snap studs to the floor so that the carpet will be bound and snap in. This way I can take it out and let it dry. I'll only glue the carpet behind the side panels. I also have those same gauges. I put the speedo in the dash hoping it will work. The tach will not work for my Chrysler/Force.:thumb:
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Ok cool thanks. Ya I was thinking about that also. I was thinking I would drill a hole and half round pice of pipe on ether side of the flat floor. I think it should work.
 
Here are a couple of pics of the side panel where they meet the dash. Control box on starboard side and I decided to put a glove box on the port side. I didn't want to put it back in the dash. I bought a glove box for $25. I made a panel to upholster the face. I also cut the depth from 6" to 3 1/2". Still enough room for cell phones, wallet, etc. I still have a bit of final fitting before a start to cover everything. I'm working out a Checkmate design for the center cooler cover in the back console. Stay tuned......
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Ok sweet I like that looks nice and clean. Thanks for putting up pictures for me I was thinking about doing something just like that.
 
Got back to work on the motor today. New forged pistons and connecting rod bearings. Checked all the ring gaps and slid them in the cylinders. Anybody have tips on removing main bearing seals?

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I got the crankshaft back in the motor yesterday. I had to put the lower bearing back in the case without the crank to hold the bearing while I pulled and pried the seal out. I pressed in the new seals, assembly lubed all the bearings and then struggled to keep everything aligned so the crank would sit in the saddle properly. I couple hours of frustration and it's in.

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